diy slot port design

[jimmyb0475]

hopefully some one can help me. a few weeks ago on one of the forums i found a diy sub thread for a slot port box design that was very detailed. but now that i am ready to build it i cant find it. the design was a box in a box to create the slot port. the post had detailed cad drawings and pictures from start to finish. i don't remember what speaker he was using but any help would be appreciated Ive been searching forums for three days and cant find it
thanks

 

[WmAx]

hopefully some one can help me. a few weeks ago on one of the forums i found a diy sub thread for a slot port box design that was very detailed. but now that i am ready to build it i cant find it. the design was a box in a box to create the slot port. the post had detailed cad drawings and pictures from start to finish. i don't remember what speaker he was using but any help would be appreciated Ive been searching forums for three days and cant find it
thanks

You must be talking about my Infinity Kappa Perect 12VQ subwoofer concept. Avaserfi materialized it for his own purposes and provided CAD models and detailed construction pictures. Is the right one? http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38854

-Chris

 

[jimmyb0475]

no that is not the one although that is a beautiful design but way to complicated for me to build. i think the design on this post was created in a Google downloaded program. thanks for the help

 

[Warpdrv]

How about this design....

18" Easy Button End Tables 24" x 21" x 36" hwd

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1018171



I want to do something similar to this with my 15" TC-2000 drivers...

What do you think of that one WmAx, I don't need that low of tuning, and I think more bracing is in order, but I like the design.

 

[annunaki]

Warp,

I wish I had a CAD program so I could show you some of my designs. I do them all free hand right now but they work wonderfully. I think you would really like my W7 build plan I have about ready to go. My 12W7 (5.25 cu.ft. net, tuned to about 19hz with over 45 sq. inches of port area, External dimensions of 18.5" W x 26.5" H x 32" D) is going to replace my PB-12 Ultra. It is going to stomp it in terms of linear output. I will probably do a second one, if things go as planned. I will be using a Behringer EP2500 in 3 ohm two channel mode (700-900 watts rms each) with the Behringer DCX 2496 for tuning/x-over purposes.

The part that stinks is that it will probably weigh approximately 150 lbs. with the driver. Oh well, that is what casters and plastics sliding feet are for .

To the OP:

Doing a simple box-within-a-box is not going to do your new sub system any justice without adequate bracing. Yes, some of the designs look complicated, but without adequate bracing and the like, it does not get you the full result.

Essentially, if you're going to put the time into a DIY build, try to do it right (to the best of your ability) the first time. DIY is a hobby that takes time and experience to perfect. When I look back at my first enclosure (which someone is still using ) I laught at how poorly constructed it was compared to the ones I have done somewhat recently. With the help you can get from those of us here on the design and such, your first enclosure will be 100x better than my first.

Keep your head up and don't be intimidated by complex looking plans, it's just wood, glue, & screws

 

[jimmyb0475]

thanks warpdrv that is the one that i was looking for, i just could not find it agin. annunaki thanks for your advice i look forward to seeing your new design. i found a design last nite and think it is better suited to my needs.

as for now ill be using a Elemental Design/Keiga LT-550 subwoofer plate amplifier and i have not decided on the speaker yet probably a Dayton RSS315Hf-4 12". the wife sees no need for anything bigger she thinks the kenwood sw-300 i bought thirteen years ago is good enough

 

[annunaki]

as for now ill be using a Elemental Design/Keiga LT-550 subwoofer plate amplifier and i have not decided on the speaker yet probably a Dayton RSS315Hf-4 12". the wife sees no need for anything bigger she thinks the kenwood sw-300 i bought thirteen years ago is good enough

Tell your wife she does not know what bass is or is all about. My wife accepts that I have some sort of malfunction, but she accepts it. As long as it looks OK and does not take up too much space she is fine with it. I never hear her complaining during movies or music though.

 

[Warpdrv]

Warp,

I wish I had a CAD program so I could show you some of my designs. I do them all free hand right now but they work wonderfully. I think you would really like my W7 build plan I have about ready to go. My 12W7 (5.25 cu.ft. net, tuned to about 19hz with over 45 sq. inches of port area, External dimensions of 18.5" W x 26.5" H x 32" D) is going to replace my PB-12 Ultra. It is going to stomp it in terms of linear output. I will probably do a second one, if things go as planned. I will be using a Behringer EP2500 in 3 ohm two channel mode (700-900 watts rms each) with the Behringer DCX 2496 for tuning/x-over purposes.

The part that stinks is that it will probably weigh approximately 150 lbs. with the driver. Oh well, that is what casters and plastics sliding feet are for .

Sorry I missed your post annunaki, I have been floating around quite a bit not paying attention. I am very interested in seeing more of your design...

This design that I posted here with the slot port was done with Google Sketchup, you can download it for free, and there are tons of free learning sites, just watch the little movies to see how they do it.. Its really cool... I'm just not so great at it... The slot port design that I posted will be really close to what I am doing, but the bracing IMO needs to be more beefy, so I will more then likely be doing a touch larger build then that, and mine will probably weigh much more then 150#'s with the granite on top. I am looking to do veneer all the way around, maybe a rose walnut or something of that nature.

I was going to do a solid wood build, but I have become afraid of the rigidity of the structure, so I will go with void free ply, thick enough for rounding for veneering, and also for rounding the port.