DIY Outdoor Subwoofer Question!!

[timoteo]

So i just put a pair of Yamaha NS-AW350 outdoor speakers on my patio & now have an excuse to build my first subwoofer. Im going to keep the enclosure sealed due to ease of design plus better for being outside. I live on CA so we dont really experience the seasons but still...Since this is a 100% music 2.1 setup i think sealed will be perfect, nice & tight

Im going to build some sort of small bench to sit on & mount the sub hidden underneath. My question to all of you is the size/number of drivers to use. Here are three configurations im considering:
1. One 12"
2. Two 10"
Or
3. Three 8"

I already have an Earthquake mono amp that is rated at 280-4ohm & 160-8ohm. Im thinking about getting the drivers from PartsExpress. The sub line is the low priced Dayton DVC Series.

So please, Your Thoughts??!!

 

[annunaki]

Interesting concept here. I would find some drivers that will be impervious to water and high heat that can also do so in a down firing configuration. Not an easy set of objectives to achieve.

The Dayton DVC, if I am thinking of the correct drivers, use a coated paper/pulp cone. This is not a good choice in an outdoor subwoofer in my opinion.

I would look for a poly cone/rubber surround or anodized & coated aluminum cone/rubber surround woofer.

Depending upon placement, you will get little to no reinforcement (transfer function gain) outdoors so sealed may not be the best choice here. The sub's anechoic f6 - f10 is about all you are going to perceive depending upon output level.

Enclosure material will need to be well thought out here too. I would recommend a 13 ply, void free, marine grade, Baltic Birch. This stuff is NOT cheap. I would also use PL premium as your adhesive here for bonding your panels. This will hold up better under harsh conditions long term. I also recommend sealing the wood inside & outside the enclosure to prevent swelling of any sort.

 

[timoteo]

Thank you annunaki for your response. You are very right about needing the right materials for outdoor conditions. Good thing though is that it will be under a large patio cover away from direct sunlight/elements. The more ive researched the more im thinking of doing an aluminum driver with a passive radiator. However im worried that type of design is hard to dial in right. So maybe a simpler ported is the way to go.
I do plan though to coat the whole inside & outside of the enclosure with a weatherproof spray that is used on the undercarraiges of trucks to protect from moisture etc.
So do you think a dual 8" driver ported configuration would give nice punch for outdoors or a single 10" ported would be better?!
Thanks again!!

 

[annunaki]

Thank you annunaki for your response. You are very right about needing the right materials for outdoor conditions. Good thing though is that it will be under a large patio cover away from direct sunlight/elements. The more ive researched the more im thinking of doing an aluminum driver with a passive radiator. However im worried that type of design is hard to dial in right. So maybe a simpler ported is the way to go.
I do plan though to coat the whole inside & outside of the enclosure with a weatherproof spray that is used on the undercarraiges of trucks to protect from moisture etc.
So do you think a dual 8" driver ported configuration would give nice punch for outdoors or a single 10" ported would be better?!
Thanks again!!

A dual 8" configuration is about equal to a single 11" woofer in terms of surface area, and a single 10" is slightly less than that (obviously). I would go with the most surface area you can afford here. Space allowing, a 12" would work better than either one. Remember that if using a passive radiator it must remain vertical. The front of the cone cannot point up or down.

If you go vented, you will want to place a screen over the vent to prevent critters and insects from attempting to make a home in there. The undercoating is a good idea since it should seal quite well.

Let me know when you think you may have found a driver choice and I can help you model an ideal enclosure.

 

[Jeff R.]

You may want to consider checking into Marine Grade Subwoofers, they will hold up in the outside environment the best. I have a 10" MB Quart in my boat that I regularly hose down with water, it has no issues and good output....

 

[timoteo]

Thanks for the tip aboit the PR needing to be vertical, i did not know that. Using a marine grade sub had crossed my mind. But since there are a lot of good choices for a cheaper HT sub i figured that replacing it every few years wouldnt bug me since my price is range is under $100 or so.
Thank you annunaki for the offer to help with the design of the enclosure! When i find a driver & get closer i will ask for your help because thats where ill need it. I have the tools & experience to do the hands on part but am still learning about correct enclosure calculations. I downloaded an app that was supposed to help but all it did was recommend their brand of enclosure to buy & not the dimensions to build.
Im thinking 2 efficient/decent Xmax 8" drivers will fit my wants well!

 

[annunaki]

Thanks for the tip aboit the PR needing to be vertical, i did not know that. Using a marine grade sub had crossed my mind. But since there are a lot of good choices for a cheaper HT sub i figured that replacing it every few years wouldnt bug me since my price is range is under $100 or so.
Thank you annunaki for the offer to help with the design of the enclosure! When i find a driver & get closer i will ask for your help because thats where ill need it. I have the tools & experience to do the hands on part but am still learning about correct enclosure calculations. I downloaded an app that was supposed to help but all it did was recommend their brand of enclosure to buy & not the dimensions to build.
Im thinking 2 efficient/decent Xmax 8" drivers will fit my wants well!

This may be a start to look at when considering marine grade drivers: JL Marine woofer

I have not modeled it yet but it is one option out there.

 

[timoteo]

Thanks ill look into that one. If its in my price range it seams like a viable option. Maybe worth spending a bit more so as not to have to replace every few years.

 

[timoteo]

Hey Annunaki i have a question. You mentioned that if i build a sub with a passive radiator that the radiator itself needs to be mounted vertically. However i was reading an article on Sunfires new SDS line of subs & in the description it said that their active driver is front facing & the passive is downfiring!
If its true what you said, why would a reputable company like Sunfire build a sub with this configuration?
Im curious because i like the design they use but not if having the radiator facing down is going to ruin or limit its output or sound quality....thoughts?

 

[annunaki]

Hey Annunaki i have a question. You mentioned that if i build a sub with a passive radiator that the radiator itself needs to be mounted vertically. However i was reading an article on Sunfires new SDS line of subs & in the description it said that their active driver is front facing & the passive is downfiring!
If its true what you said, why would a reputable company like Sunfire build a sub with this configuration?
Im curious because i like the design they use but not if having the radiator facing down is going to ruin or limit its output or sound quality....thoughts?

Well it is always a little different when one can custom tool a part specific to an application.

I am sure in that case they have a passive with a taut suspension that does not sag or the amount of sag on the passive has been factored into the design.

When a manufacturer has complete control over all components used in the design possibilities could be endless.