Desperate for help getting TV, PS5, sound bar and projector to all work together.

W

wannabe_audio

Audiophyte
Just like title says, I am pulling my hair out trying to figure all this out. Here is my equipment.

TV: Hisense 58R6E3 (has one HDMI ARC )
Sound Bar: Hisense AX5125H (HDMI IN and HDMI OUT (earc/arc))
PS5
Projector: Newer Epson with HDMI (no ARC)

I just need to know how to hook everything up so I get 5.1 sound playing through my sound bar whether my source is TV or PS5 and and output display is TV or projector. I don't need advanced stuff sound like ATMOS, just regular Dolby or DTS, as long as its 5.1. I know I may need to physically unplug HDMI cables when switching display sources and /or that an HDMI splitter may be needed.

Thank you!
 
WaynePflughaupt

WaynePflughaupt

Audioholic Samurai
The only way I can see the possibility of getting this to work would be a TV with more than one HDMI Output (i.e. one for the soundbar, and one for the projector. I’m not sure if anyone makes a TV like that.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
 
W

wannabe_audio

Audiophyte
Thanks. Im sorry, I do not need the TV to output to the projector. Or am I missing something? The projector would only need to output image from the PS5, and then sound bar to output the audio from the ps5.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Thanks. Im sorry, I do not need the TV to output to the projector. Or am I missing something? The projector would only need to output image from the PS5, and then sound bar to output the audio from the ps5.
Yes, you are missing a lot.

First off you do not want to go switching HDMI plugs. They are very fragile, and if you break one, you will need a whole new HDMI board, which will cost you more than a new unit.

With what you have I don't see how you can use your projector, as if you connect both TV and projector to the PS5 you will likely have an EDID conflict. If you use a switch then you won't get sound to the sound bar when you use the projector. In any event to get sound you would have to have the TV and projector running at the same time.

To use the TV and the sound bar, you will have to go HDMI from PS5 to the TV and use the optical out from the TV to the optical in for the sound bar.

Sound bars have very limited functionality and are for simple systems and not more complex applications like yours.

What you really need is a receiver and speakers and not a sound bar. That is because a receiver handles both audio and video simultaneously and a sound bar does not.

So your PS5 needs to connect to a receiver. Then one HDMI out can go to your TV and the other to the projector. Then connect your speakers to the receiver.

The problem you are having is because of the onerous requirements imposed on HDMI to prevent piracy so onerous HDCP codes and handshakes are required between devices. Your fundamental problem is that you have no device in the mix that can receiver and send HDMI. In a word you have no repeater device in the mix only send and receive devices.

What this means is that a send only and a receive only device are only required to make one initial HDCP handshake. However a device that sends and receives HDMI is required to have repeater architecture that makes constant rapid handshakes between connected devices.
 
D

dolynick

Full Audioholic
With what you have I don't see how you can use your projector, as if you connect both TV and projector to the PS5 you will likely have an EDID conflict.
This was a real issue with trying to get my Samsung QN90B and JVC 4k projector connected at the same time. The TV was happy to use the 8k60p EDID but the projector needed a more specific 4k120p value or it would reject the signal.

It was a non-starter coming out of the AVM processor so I started exploring splitter boxes. I went through a great number of them (including the well regarded Monoprice one). A few of them do offer a switch for 8k or 4k on their output, but that 4k setting is the HDMI 2.0 value and doesn't support full 120Hz at 4:4:4. I eventually found a splitter that offers 8k60 on one port with a switch that allows 4k120 on the other. This seems to work in my case but I would love to just get rid of the splitter entirely as I get occasional signal glitches during playback that are annoying (but otherwise minor).

I'm still not sure this would solve the OP's issue though, as I'm not sure the TV would pass audio through to the soundbar anyways if it was not turned on as well.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
This was a real issue with trying to get my Samsung QN90B and JVC 4k projector connected at the same time. The TV was happy to use the 8k60p EDID but the projector needed a more specific 4k120p value or it would reject the signal.

It was a non-starter coming out of the AVM processor so I started exploring splitter boxes. I went through a great number of them (including the well regarded Monoprice one). A few of them do offer a switch for 8k or 4k on their output, but that 4k setting is the HDMI 2.0 value and doesn't support full 120Hz at 4:4:4. I eventually found a splitter that offers 8k60 on one port with a switch that allows 4k120 on the other. This seems to work in my case but I would love to just get rid of the splitter entirely as I get occasional signal glitches during playback that are annoying (but otherwise minor).

I'm still not sure this would solve the OP's issue though, as I'm not sure the TV would pass audio through to the soundbar anyways if it was not turned on as well.
The answer is it won't pass sound to the sound bar unless the TV is also on.
You’ll never get 5.1 sound from a soundbar as for that you need more speakers.
Yes, but these sound bar manufacturers claim you do, which is nonsense and a barefaced lie.

Our brains are smatter then that, and will always know where the sound is coming from, no matter how many "porkies" the sound bar sales people tell.
 
W

wannabe_audio

Audiophyte
You’ll never get 5.1 sound from a soundbar as for that you need more speakers.
sorry i wasnt clear, it is a 5.1 sound bar (with separate rear speakers and sub).
 
D

dolynick

Full Audioholic
The answer is it won't pass sound to the sound bar unless the TV is also on.
In that case, you could also chain a audio splitter to pull the 5.1 out of an HDMI signal. I've used one before and it worked quite well. The only issue is that was for a relatively simple 1080p signal. I'm assuming wannabe is running 4k signals now and I'm not sure if there will be more EDID issues with that. On the bright side, it would be on the TV line which is likely to be less fussy over EDID.


Or if you want to go cheaper:

That's a bit of a messy HDMI chain developing now but short of just going proper receiver, it's likely the only option.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
sorry i wasnt clear, it is a 5.1 sound bar (with separate rear speakers and sub).
Think about this, I would try and return that sound bar contraption and get receiver and speakers. Having right, left and center speakers in one miserable strip case is not the way to go.
 
W

wannabe_audio

Audiophyte
In that case, you could also chain a audio splitter to pull the 5.1 out of an HDMI signal. I've used one before and it worked quite well. The only issue is that was for a relatively simple 1080p signal. I'm assuming wannabe is running 4k signals now and I'm not sure if there will be more EDID issues with that. On the bright side, it would be on the TV line which is likely to be less fussy over EDID.


Or if you want to go cheaper:

That's a bit of a messy HDMI chain developing now but short of just going proper receiver, it's likely the only option.
ah cool. how would it work since it only has one hdmi out? can you help me create mental image of how all the connections would work?

What about something like this?


or this


I connect ps5 to hdmi in on splitter, and tv and projector to hdmi out 1 and 2 of the splitter, respectively. Then use optical from splitter to optical on sound bar???
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
HDMI splitters are fraught with problems and an absolute PITA.

Would may be would work, would be that audio extractor to Optical of sound bar. Then an HDMI switch connecter to the HDMI out of the extractor, and then switch between TV and projector.

If that does not work you need to go full receiver which is you optimal solution.
 
D

dolynick

Full Audioholic
You haven't said exactly what resolution and refresh rates your displays are. I'm assuming HDMI 2.1 and 4k 120Hz but maybe they are older. The exact spec will determine what you may want to try in the end.

For instance, that first one is only good for 4k 30Hz and I would avoid it like the plague for that reason.

The second one looks a bit more promising as an all in one but is limited to HDMI 2.0 and at best 4k60 4:2:0. If that's all you need, it might be fine.

If you are actually looking to run 4K 120Hz, on both the TV and the projector, then I would say something more like this:

(The splitter I am currently using I believe and the only one I was to get to put out an actual 4K120 EDID compatible with my projector at the time)

And this off the HDMI going to the TV to extract the audio:

But again, this chain is getting kind of messy and it's difficult to predict if there will be odd interactions that prevent it from working correctly without trying it. If you're not running bleeding edge HDMI 2.1 rates, your options (and the chance to avoid complications) are likely to go up.

If you are dead set on using what you already have with no major changes though, something along this line is what you'll have to try without adding more serious pieces of equipment (like a receiver or processor of some kind - but even then I suspect you may need the splitter anyways).
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
You will want a HDMI splitter which supports HDMI 2.0. Be aware, that your TV will not pass HDMI-ARC through a HDMI splitter, so you will need to connect the optical audio connection from the TV to the sound bar if you want to get sound out of the TV at all. If not, don't worry about it.

The PS5 will connect to the HDMI in of the sound bar.
The HDMI out of the sound bar will connect to a HDMI 2.0 splitter.
The HDMI splitter will have one output which connects to the TV.
The HDMI splitter will have the other output which connects to the projector.

Should be that simple.
I would probably get something like this as my HDMI splitter...
 
W

wannabe_audio

Audiophyte
You will want a HDMI splitter which supports HDMI 2.0. Be aware, that your TV will not pass HDMI-ARC through a HDMI splitter, so you will need to connect the optical audio connection from the TV to the sound bar if you want to get sound out of the TV at all. If not, don't worry about it.

The PS5 will connect to the HDMI in of the sound bar.
The HDMI out of the sound bar will connect to a HDMI 2.0 splitter.
The HDMI splitter will have one output which connects to the TV.
The HDMI splitter will have the other output which connects to the projector.

Should be that simple.
I would probably get something like this as my HDMI splitter...
thanks this is what worked! and yeah im using optical from tv to sound bar for when im just wanting to use the TV by itself. I still need to get a 1x2 splitter or switch not sure yet. I was actually already looking at that exact same one you linked to! :)
 
W

wannabe_audio

Audiophyte
You haven't said exactly what resolution and refresh rates your displays are. I'm assuming HDMI 2.1 and 4k 120Hz but maybe they are older. The exact spec will determine what you may want to try in the end.

For instance, that first one is only good for 4k 30Hz and I would avoid it like the plague for that reason.

The second one looks a bit more promising as an all in one but is limited to HDMI 2.0 and at best 4k60 4:2:0. If that's all you need, it might be fine.

If you are actually looking to run 4K 120Hz, on both the TV and the projector, then I would say something more like this:

(The splitter I am currently using I believe and the only one I was to get to put out an actual 4K120 EDID compatible with my projector at the time)

And this off the HDMI going to the TV to extract the audio:

But again, this chain is getting kind of messy and it's difficult to predict if there will be odd interactions that prevent it from working correctly without trying it. If you're not running bleeding edge HDMI 2.1 rates, your options (and the chance to avoid complications) are likely to go up.

If you are dead set on using what you already have with no major changes though, something along this line is what you'll have to try without adding more serious pieces of equipment (like a receiver or processor of some kind - but even then I suspect you may need the splitter anyways).
i guess i have older equipment as im only looking for 4k@60hz at the most. i got it to work with what
BMXTRIX suggested. I still need to get a 1x2 splitter or switch though.
 

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