Denon AVR-2807 - no display, no sound

F

flipascal

Audiophyte
Hi, first time post for me!
I've got a two year old Denon 2807 connected in a basic 5.1 setup. I've got the B speakers wired to in wall speakers/outdoor speakers. I was playing on just the B's last weekend when I lost the display and the all sound. I tried disconnecting/reconnecting the power, no luck. The green/red light around the power button goes red and green as always and the other small read lights on the face still work. I do notice that the normal "click" that happens at the same time the green light around the on/off switch stops blinking no longer occurs. Anyone have any idea's on the cause? Do these things have multiple "fuses"?
Thanks
 
J

jamie2112

Banned
Were your B speakers plugged in when you fired up the rig? I would unplug the B speakers and see what happens.Actually unhook both pairs first and there should be a automatic shut down of the amp section on that Denon..try that first unless you already have.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Hi, first time post for me!
I've got a two year old Denon 2807 connected in a basic 5.1 setup. I've got the B speakers wired to in wall speakers/outdoor speakers. I was playing on just the B's last weekend when I lost the display and the all sound. I tried disconnecting/reconnecting the power, no luck. The green/red light around the power button goes red and green as always and the other small read lights on the face still work. I do notice that the normal "click" that happens at the same time the green light around the on/off switch stops blinking no longer occurs. Anyone have any idea's on the cause? Do these things have multiple "fuses"?
Thanks
Look in the manual for instruction on how to reset the processor AFTER disconnecting the B speakers. If the A speakers never gave you any problems and it went out after turning the B on, that's the first thing to do. If you have to do the reset, you will need to repeat the whole setup but it can bring it back to life. Fuses? Probably not- usually just for the power supply. A protection circuit can react to high current a lot faster than a fuse.
 
agarwalro

agarwalro

Audioholic Ninja
Check all speaker terminations (speaker and receiver side) and wires for short circuits. This is most likely what caused the problem and most probably still exists.
 
F

flipascal

Audiophyte
Thanks guys...I tried removing all connections to the receiver and then replaced the blown fuse (8A, 125v, the first fuse in the unit) in the power input section of the amp. When I power the unit back on it still blows the fuse. I suppose there is a sort internal to the power section. Any ideas on how to isolate and then repair?
 
bandphan

bandphan

Banned
Thanks guys...I tried removing all connections to the receiver and then replaced the blown fuse (8A, 125v, the first fuse in the unit) in the power input section of the amp. When I power the unit back on it still blows the fuse. I suppose there is a sort internal to the power section. Any ideas on how to isolate and then repair?
Maybe Alex2507 might want to give you a few tips, as he just went through the whole process of trouble shoting an avr..

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55562
 
Lordoftherings

Lordoftherings

Banned
Good advice.

Check all speaker terminations (speaker and receiver side) and wires for short circuits. This is most likely what caused the problem and most probably still exists.
+1 I agree 100% with this diagnostic.

Check all you speaker wires and interconnects for a damaged one.
The easiest way to do this, is to try one at a time, till you find the culprit.

You do have to disconnect your receiver first, then remove all wires (speaker and interconnect ones).

* Also, check for any damaged power cords.
** And make sure that you plug any type of wire fully inserted.
*** Often, the termination plug (RCA end or banana plug) will be a good place to start.

Keep us posted, and welcome to the club.

Bob
 
K

KidsDad

Audiophyte
I have the same problem with my Denon AVR 2807. Has anyone found a solution? I'm not sure what to do at this point. I'm debating on trying to repair it myself, send it back to Denon (out of warranty) or buy a new receiver. Can anyone help? Thanks.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I have the same problem with my Denon AVR 2807. Has anyone found a solution? I'm not sure what to do at this point. I'm debating on trying to repair it myself, send it back to Denon (out of warranty) or buy a new receiver. Can anyone help? Thanks.
Blowing a fuse repeatedly indicates a major fault. Unless you are experienced techs you won't fix it.

I suspect the OP had too many speakers hooked up to this receiver, and the impedance was far too low and he blew his receiver as a result.
 
K

KidsDad

Audiophyte
TLS Guy, thanks for the response. I did have too many speakers hooked up, 2nd zone was running 5 other speakers in multiple rooms. So I agree the impedance was far too low. So now that this is beyond me to fix. Do you feel it's worth sending off to Denon to have repaired or should I just scrap it and buy a new. I was hoping to repair it inexpensively and use it to run my 2nd zone and buy a new receiver for my tv viewing, etc. I'm just trying to determine the best, least expensive way - without upsetting my wife because of my foolish mistake.
Thanks.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
TLS Guy, thanks for the response. I did have too many speakers hooked up, 2nd zone was running 5 other speakers in multiple rooms. So I agree the impedance was far too low. So now that this is beyond me to fix. Do you feel it's worth sending off to Denon to have repaired or should I just scrap it and buy a new. I was hoping to repair it inexpensively and use it to run my 2nd zone and buy a new receiver for my tv viewing, etc. I'm just trying to determine the best, least expensive way - without upsetting my wife because of my foolish mistake.
Thanks.
Considering the second hand value of that receiver is about $278 and that the receiver does not carry the loos less codecs, I don't think repair is warranted.

The issue of warranty is moot in any event, as you would have voided a it by what you did.

The replacement receiver of the same quality is over $1000.00.

I would recycle your blown unit.

Use your new receiver for HT only. Connect zone 2 to a multichannal amp designed for audio distribution.

You will have to level with your wife, as to do this job properly and safely will require the commitment of serious funds.

Receivers are not intended for multi room aps.
 
W

wlmargol

Audiophyte
Hi all! Reigniting an old thread, but thought I'd see if I can gain any insight here. I also have an AVR-2807. I, too, am repeatedly blowing the 125v/8A fuse on the board nearest the AC input. No speakers, no equipment attached to the unit. When I turn on the unit WITHOUT that fuse, it powers on, full green light, but no display. Does this help narrow down where the fault might be? I'm not an electrical engineer, but fairly competent with a soldering iron and fairly savvy in electronics, when I've got the good old internet there to educate me. Thoughts? Thanks!
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Hi all! Reigniting an old thread, but thought I'd see if I can gain any insight here. I also have an AVR-2807. I, too, am repeatedly blowing the 125v/8A fuse on the board nearest the AC input. No speakers, no equipment attached to the unit. When I turn on the unit WITHOUT that fuse, it powers on, full green light, but no display. Does this help narrow down where the fault might be? I'm not an electrical engineer, but fairly competent with a soldering iron and fairly savvy in electronics, when I've got the good old internet there to educate me. Thoughts? Thanks!
You can download a service manual here.

We are very reluctant to provide service advice, as it is dangerous, especially if you have no training.

For your protection no attempt should be made to service the unit without a Variac. This is a variable voltage transformer, which can lower the voltage to the unit under test, to make servicing easier. This stops fuses blowing right away. More importantly it isolates the unit from the AC mains, and makes servicing much safer.

DO NOT muck around in this unit without one of these devices.

Now you will need an amplified meter. Using an non amplified meter just does more damage.

You may well need a signal generator and o-scope.

First find out what the blown fuse supplies.

There are a lot of power supplies starting on pages 97.

When you see which part of the unit the blown fuse supplies, disconnect the board or boards that power supply is supplying. If the fuse blows with the boards disconnected then that power supply needs service.

Now connect boards one by one and see which one is drawing the excess current. Unless it is the power amp board, then you will need to replace that board if it is available, and it probably isn't. With modern service mounting you will not repair the board.

If the problem is in the power amp, and it very likely is, then you have a chance of servicing it.
You will need a signal generator and o-scope.

Now the power amps are on one board and the power transistors are discrete.

Now disconnect the rail voltage from all the output stages, and reconnect one by one, to see if there is one or two blown output pairs.

Be prepared when you find the culprit to check out the driver stage. Often but by no means always the driver stage is damaged as well.

There are thyristor crow bar DC off set protection circuits I see. These frequently need service especially when fuses have been replaced multiple times. If you don't check this carefully then you will blow the new power transistors right away.

If there is a major board blown then the cost will not be worth it, and as I said the board may not be available.

The only areas were you might come out ahead is if there is a power supply you can repair or a set or sets of power transistors that can be replaced.

This is a complex unit, with a service manual 130 pages long.

This will be a very steep climb for you if it is the first unit you have serviced.
 
W

wlmargol

Audiophyte
Ok, well, that is a bit steep!!! I appreciate the candid advice and warnings. So...worth having someone repair or time to toss?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Ok, well, that is a bit steep!!! I appreciate the candid advice and warnings. So...worth having someone repair or time to toss?
If you want to pay someone $75 to $100 bucks per hour for what I outlined for a unit worth $200 or less then go right ahead!
 

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