Watch out, what about the 5805 that Gene had? It's approximately 1.64 times better than my 4520 though!
And the NAD T787 that weighs 55.6 lbs, take a look of their measured output:
"This graph shows that the T 787’s left channel, from A1 input to speaker output with two channels driving 8-ohm loads, reaches 0.1 percent distortion at 152.7 watts and 1 percent distortion at 184.5 watts. Into 4 ohms, the amplifier reaches 0.1 percent distortion at 180.1 watts and 1 percent distortion at 207.1 watts."
So those 36 to 40 lbs Denon and Yamaha beat it by more than 1 dB, even in ACD. Owners of NAD please don't be upset with me, I am only quoting the HTM figures just as an example. I am quite sure the T787 will output much more in real world material that has lots of peaks and only need less than 20WPC on average most of the time.
If you look at some of the EMO models and calculate their Watts/lb, you will also notice that they are all over the map. Weight is an indicator, to a point only.
By the way, power consumption is another all over the map spec probably due to lack of universal standards:
Yamaha RX-A3010, 490W/620VA
Denon AVR-4311, 780W
Denon - used to provide the current, something like 8.1A, and would translate into 972 VA.
Yamaha - sometimes provides "maximum" power consumption as well, and that typically bump it up to over 1000W, and I believe they had previously stated that would be for 10% THD but did not say how many channel.
Harman Kardon - Some models provide both consumption and maximum consumption figures, some just consumption and some just maximum consumption.
It is not easy to know how "exactly" to compare power consumption. Many people would just quote those figures on forums without any qualifications, as they probably thought those figures are gospels and were under the impression that those with the highest numbers should be most powerful. I have seen enough bench test results to know one has to look deeper.
My point is, lots of those specs are just indicators that often do not allow us to do fair comparisons. IMHO, one reasonable way is to compare them base on lab measurements by the same person using the same equipment consistently such as those by HTM, HCC, Stereophile, S&V. Even then, it is only good to a point but at least they tell you how they do their tests and what those numbers represent in some cases.