Dayton Sub 120 replacement driver

[GlocksRock]

I was thinking of swapping out the driver in my dayton sub-120 with a different driver to get better sq. The stock amp is 150 watts, and I don't plan on replacing it unless it fails, so any suggestions on what would be a good driver to drop in as a replacement? I was thinking maybe a JL 12W0V2, since I can get one on ebay for about $84 shipped. I don't want to spend a lot on a new driver, afterall the sub itself only costs about $150. I know there are other dayton drivers like the Titanic MKIII and the reference hf subwoofer, but I was wondering if there are any car audio drivers that would work well with this enclosure.

 

[j_garcia]

My guess would be that the amp and box won't be sufficient for the JL. How big is that box compared to the Titanic kit? That will give you an idea of whether or not the HF driver might work in it.

 

[GlocksRock]

The new JL12W0V2 is rated for 150 watts, so I'm sure the power would be sufficient, just not sure about the box size... http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=33
After looking at the JL site, I think the sub-120 box would work pretty well with the 12W0V2

Sub 120 - 14-3/4" W x 17-5/8" H x 18" D
Titanic Kit - 17" W x 17" H x 17-1/4" D

Dimensions are fairly close, but I'm not sure 150 watts would be enough for the titanic driver, and it's kinda more than I really want to spend.

 

[lsiberian]

You could pull it off as long as you have a eq system to fix the alignment. I suggest trying the Dayton RF series driver. It's likely to fit the hole.

If you know how to measure the port length material thickness. I could work up a model. Just use a tape measure and you should be able to do it.

 

[gmichael]

You could pull it off as long as you have a eq system to fix the alignment. I suggest trying the Dayton RF series driver. It's likely to fit the hole.

If you know how to measure the port length material thickness. I could work up a model. Just use a tape measure and you should be able to do it.

I vote for the Dayton RF series driver as well.

 

[GlocksRock]

I don't see any dayton RF series on the website...

I wonder if the JL 12W1V2 would be a better choice than the 12W0V2, I could get one for just a few dollars more than the W0.

 

[j_garcia]

How thick is the cabinet on the 120? Is it braced at all?

Maybe he meant the HO? They only have the HF and HO AFAIK.

 

[GlocksRock]

How thick is the cabinet on the 120? Is it braced at all?

Maybe he meant the HO? They only have the HF and HO AFAIK.

3/4" mdf, and it does have some bracing.

Here are some pics I took when I had to replace the amp.

 

[j_garcia]

The tuning is going to be specific to that driver, so it may or may not work well with a different one. You could plug the ports as well. You could compare the specs and see if any of those drivers have some similar characteristics and that might indidcate which would be better. All of them will work, the question is will they work well enough that it is worth it even at $80. You might check the PE forums to see if anyone has tried other drivers in that box.

I have a similar project sort of - an old dead sub that has a good amp and bad driver. I am not sure what to drop into it and whether or not to use the amp that is there or an external amp, but I have to find a driver that will work with that box.

 

[GlocksRock]

Well I decided to go ahead and get a JL Audio 12W0V2 and finally got in put in yesterday. I had to modify the box to get it to fit right because of they way the OEM driver was mounted. But all said and done I'm very pleased with it so far. I haven't been able to do too much listening yet, but so far it has plenty of output, is much less boomy sounding, the bass is much tighter and cleaner. I'll mess with it more later on when I have more time and the house is empty.