Bushing for Cinder Block? [Patio Installation]

C

cowboy2006

Enthusiast
I've got speakers out on my patio and want to run the 14-gauge wire through the cinder block in my basement. I'm looking for a feed-through bushing to dress up the hole so it doesn't look like an amateur did it. The bushing has to be big enough for two pairs of 14-gauge wire to go through together. Then, I'll seal it up with silicone and make it water tight.

Does any know of a supplier of bushings like that?


(None of the hardware stores I checked have a bushing like that. The RCA coax bushing are too small even for one 14-gauge wire).
 
sdy284

sdy284

Audioholic
i would make a trip down to home depot, lowe's, menards etc and poke around there. I would imagine that they would have just what you need
 
Resident Loser

Resident Loser

Senior Audioholic
As someone...

cowboy2006 said:
I did, they don't.
...who in a past life ran more wiring through outside walls than he cares to remember...two wraps of friction tape, extending approx. two-three inches beyond the walls face (both sides, in and out) is sufficient.... If you are drilling from the outside, tilt your drill and bit up a few degrees from the horizontal...from the inside, down a few degrees...silicone isn't really required...your bit should be approx. 3/32nds-1/8 in. larger (but no larger than that) than the wire's diameter. When drilling, beware the blowout opposite the side you are drilling from...don't force the bit...it's better for the bit and the wall.

About the friction tape: Whatever the wall's thickness, say 8in. you want to start your half-overlap wrap at a point on the wire that will be equidistant from both faces of the wall...wrap in one direction for 6-7 inches (roughly half the wall's thickness plus that two or so inches I mentioned earlier)...tightly, but without tearing the tape, reverse the wrap, continuing beyond the starting point for another 6-7 inches...again reverse the wrap and end where you started: in the middle. Squeeze the tape onto itself (it will be sticky and tar-y) and Voila! two layers of tape to protect the wire from abrasion, providing its own stop and the tapered, cigar-type wrap avoids stray tape edges, easing insertion.

There are sleeves that are designed for the purpose, but they may be problematic to come by for the general public...

jimHJJ(...wood, brick, block or poured, that's all you need...)
 
C

cowboy2006

Enthusiast
Great post, thanks!

I don't supposed you have a photo of such an installation handy so I can see what it looks like when finished, do you?
 
Resident Loser

Resident Loser

Senior Audioholic
Not offhand...

cowboy2006 said:
Great post, thanks!

I don't supposed you have a photo of such an installation handy so I can see what it looks like when finished, do you?
...what you will have will be your wire and about 2-3 ins. of a friction tape wrap sticking out of the wall, very industrial-looking...you can go up, down, sideways...the way telecom pros do it.

How do you intend to run the wire to the speaker locations? Raw wire and proper rings, clips or ty-raps may not have a high WAF...outdoor-rated conduit or surface raceways are an alternative. If your house has balloon-type walls, snaking/fishing the wall is a viable option...

Think of speaker placement, then work backwards...perhaps going through the basement wall isn't the best choice...

jimHJJ(...an old saying: "work smarter, not harder"...)
 
C

cowboy2006

Enthusiast
Thanks for the feedback Resident Loser. I like your suggestion, but I'd like to see a photo of the finished product before I try that method.

I received a bag of dual coax feed-through bushings that will work perfect! Two pairs of 14-gauge wire (direct bury landscape lighting wire I’m using as speaker wire) fit through the horizontal slot just right...enough room to freely pull the wire through it, and snug enough that it doesn’t look sloppy. Then, I’ll run a bead of clear silicone around the entry point and should be good to go!

http://www.techtoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=68

There are wall plates available that would also be good options:
http://www.techtoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=170
 
J

Johnd

Audioholic Samurai
cowboy2006 said:
Then, I’ll run a bead of clear silicone around the entry point and should be good to go!
If it's in a wet location (foundation wall to the exterior) I would use a urethane based sealant rather than silicone. Urethane is tougher, lasts longer, and has far better adhesion properties. jfyi
 
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