Budget-y subwoofer for large-ish room but low-ish volume?

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wckai

Audiophyte
Greetings all!

I am upgrading my HT set up from an old Infinity htib (tss-450) - recently got three Wavecrest HVL-1's for LCR. Now I'm looking at getting a new subwoofer. The main issues I have, though, are that my apartment is kind of large (due to a relatively open floorplan, ~4000+ ft^3) and, being in an apartment building, I need to keep the volume level somewhat low so as to not cause my neighbors to form an angry mob. The layout of the apartment is also a bit odd, with various angles here and there - floorplan attached below (total is 830 sq. ft, ~8' ceilings)

Ideally, I'd like to get a sub ~$300, which I recognize (after reading various things here) is rather low. I could potentially bump that up to $500 if it would be worth it.

Usage would be about 50/50 for music & movies/tv/games, and I don't really need window-rattling levels of bass, so looking for good quality low end sound ("good quality", of course, being relative due to my budget constraints) to complement the new speakers.

I'm currently thinking about a BIC PL-200, but wondering if a) spending more for an SVS sub, like the PB-1000 would be better, or b) if dual cheaper subs (BIC F12's or Daytons or something) would be better. With the space I have to fill, would I be able to hear enough of a difference in quality with a higher-quality sub like an SVS, if the volume is kept relatively low? Or would dual subs really be needed at my budget level for the size of my room?

Any thoughts/advice you all have would be most appreciated. Thanks!
 

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KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
I think you are a perfect candidate for a pair of Dayton SUB-1200's for $150 each shipped.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/71766-dayton-audio-sub-1200-subwoofer-review.html

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629

Effectively, these will turn your HVL-1's into full range speakers. They are not really subwoofers in the sense of producing much below the lower frequency limit of our hearing, but they make outstanding budget woofers, and having a pair will smooth out the bass throughout the room.
You really don't want a SUBwoofer in your apartment, because the sounds that will shake your walls will shake the neighbors walls as well. The SUB-1200 will do that, but not as readily as the common $500 sub.
Jman's review is in line with my experience with this sub. I have run two in a larger room than yours and they did a good job of filling the room. I had their volumes in the 1 O'clock position (and Audyssey put them at minus 2-3 dB).

You'll want to cross the HVL-1's at 100 or 120 Hz. Try both and see what you like best.
Do you know what receiver you will be using? What are you using for bass management?
Ideally you can relieve the HVL-1 of having to produce the lower frequencies which will help them sound better with the rest of the range.
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
BTW, an SVS PB-1000 is exactly what you don't want in an apartment:


The chart above is an impulse response for the PB-1000. You can see how in the low 20Hz range the sub is very slow to die after the impulse.
In all fairness, it is thrilling for HT to have that type of energy behind an explosion, and that is what SVS decided to go for with the PB-1000. However, it is not desirable for music nor for the neighbors.
The frequency response (upper right corner of the chart) shows a slight hump at this frequency and doesn't look bad, but since this is an impulse response designed to mimic an anechoic chamber, your actual in room response would be sloping upward excessively.
 
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KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
Wow! While the SUB-1200 has gone up $20, the NXG NX-BAS-500 has dropped $100. The SUB-1200 is slightly tighter per measurements, and the NXG digs slightly deeper; but realistically, they are very similar performers. I'd go for the NXG for only $10 more just because the gold driver is so cool looking!:cool::)



http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/speaker-subwoofer-reviews/67178-nxg-nx-bas-500-subwoofer-review.html

SUB-1200 for comparison (the stapled velcro ruins the otherwise acceptably utilitarian looks when the grill is off):
 
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W

wckai

Audiophyte
Ah, thanks for the suggestions! I'd heard about the NXG, but hadn't looked too closely at it. And hadn't realized that the price had dropped like that. Good find!

I had looked at the Daytons, but had read in Jman's review of the HVL-1's that the Dayton Sub 1200 didn't mesh too well with the speakers. Not as well as he was expecting, in any case, so the NXG could be the better option anyway.

My receiver is an Onkyo TR-NX636, so has two sub lines with it. I'm not sure what you mean when asking about "bass management", though, KEW. Besides the crossover settings, what else should I be looking at/for?

And out of curiosity, why the suggestion to crossover at either 100 or 120 Hz? Other things I had been reading seemed to suggest that 80 Hz was a good place for crossover. I'm looking forward to trying out the different options, so have no problem with trying 100 or 120...I'm just wondering.

And that's an interesting chart on the PB-1000! I've seen some frequency response graphs, but hadn't paid any attention to impulse responses. Neat! So also out of curiosity, what would the SB-1000 impulse response look like? Is that a better system for an apartment? Or maybe only a small apartment?

Thanks again!
 
afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
I have PB-1000 in a small apt and it does very well. I only use it for Movies/Concerts/SACD and to my ears it sounds great. I assume you read Jman's review on both PB-1000/NXG BAS500?
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
Ah, thanks for the suggestions! I'd heard about the NXG, but hadn't looked too closely at it. And hadn't realized that the price had dropped like that. Good find!

I had looked at the Daytons, but had read in Jman's review of the HVL-1's that the Dayton Sub 1200 didn't mesh too well with the speakers. Not as well as he was expecting, in any case, so the NXG could be the better option anyway.

My receiver is an Onkyo TR-NX636, so has two sub lines with it. I'm not sure what you mean when asking about "bass management", though, KEW. Besides the crossover settings, what else should I be looking at/for?

And out of curiosity, why the suggestion to crossover at either 100 or 120 Hz? Other things I had been reading seemed to suggest that 80 Hz was a good place for crossover. I'm looking forward to trying out the different options, so have no problem with trying 100 or 120...I'm just wondering.

And that's an interesting chart on the PB-1000! I've seen some frequency response graphs, but hadn't paid any attention to impulse responses. Neat! So also out of curiosity, what would the SB-1000 impulse response look like? Is that a better system for an apartment? Or maybe only a small apartment?

Thanks again!
I looked up Jman's review of the HVL-1's. I think he is simply trying to complement the HVL-1. No sub is going to provide as much detail as a speaker. I can play my Rythmik E15HP's (which are deservedly reputed to be as articulate as a sub gets) with the speakers disconnected, and trust me, there is nothing I would call detail! You can do this with any sub. The detail is all in the higher frequencies. The sub could be obscuring details that come from the speakers if it is too hot or has too much resonance; and a tighter sub (like my Rythmiks) will "get out of the way" quicker than the Dayton, but this is true with $25 speakers as well as the HVL's as well as $20,000 speakers. I have set up dual Daytons with Pioneer BS-22's (HVL's are better, but the PIO's sounded very nice after Audyssey) and for the money, I feel it is excellent sound quality.

RE Bass management. You just answered my question, the Onkyo has Audyssey MultEQ which will attempt to adjust your bass to improve the in room response at the locations you place the mic. After you run audyssey, go back and make sure your speakers are set as small, then set the Crossover to 100 or 120Hz.

Why 100 or 120? As you know the HVL-1 is a budget speaker. Dave Fabricant did a very good job of designing it to get the best performance out of it, but the mid-woofer can get overwhelmed and lose detail from having to play too many frequencies at once. I found it sounded pretty detailed on "less crowded" music, but got a little jumbled when thing get busy (not bad, but compared to better speakers you can hear it). If you can off load the lower frequencies to your sub, you are relieving the mid-woof from having to attempt accurate and detailed fine vibrations at the mid frequencies while he bass frequencies are slamming the driver close to it's travel limits. Play with it and listen, it might not be apparent without another pair of speakers to compare to, but I think you will be able to tell the difference.

The SB1000 would definitely be a better sub than the PB1000 for you apartment if it can put out enough sound (that seems like you'd be pushing it).

The charts come from Jman's reviews!
Here is the SB1000:

The PB1000:


Unfortunately, Jman measured the SUB-1200 before he was combining the driver and port responses, but here they are as two separate slides (driver is the first one):



And here is the NXG:



As you can see, the Dayton and the NXG really are splitting hairs - very close!

The PB1000 is the only one that has solid yellow (~80dB) carrying out to the 50ms line!
The SB1000 is nicely tight until it get down to around 30Hz. This could be an artifact of the EQ SVS is using or it might be a design decision. If you threw out cost concerns, the Dual Dayton/NXG vs an SB1000 is an interesting question. The SB1000 is tighter until you get down to the low 30's, but the bloom there is a problem for neighbors.
The Dayton/NXG have slightly more resonance at 30Hz, but instead of being a "spike", it is gradual increase as the frequency goes down. I'm uncertain how this would play out. However, the benefit of dual subs is substantial. It reduces the "hot spots" and the "dead spots" (or nulls) where the bass is either too strong or doesn't exist in your room (maybe you've been to a concert where the bass was overwhelming in one location but okay in another and non-existent in another). With two subs you come closer to having the same level of bass throughout your room. Too bad you can't control it so the neighbors get the nulls.

Just as a reference, a top notch performer is the PSA XS15se (~$800 each):


And here is the $1000 Paradigm SUB-12 Jman used with the HVL-1's:
 
afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
You bring up a good point KEW. When I went to see Fiona Apple twice in the same venue. I felt the Bass response was better when I was in the balcony then when I was in front of the stage the 2nd night. I live in a small apt and the PB-1000 is not even used to it's full power and believe me it shakes everything. Yep you guess it's the Bloody bloomin' neighbors. :) You can always get the butt shakers as well they are fun. :D You can't go wrong with the Dayton/NXG. Although I've never heard the NXG sub I have a set of NXG 4.1 speakers(discontinued) and I love it in my setup + Jman knows what he talks of.
 
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G

Guacho

Audiophyte
Amazon has the Klipsch 12HG 300 watt Sub at $199. I don't have any experience with that particular model or the ones mentioned above, but I ordered one this morning to join my Polk Audio CS1 and monitor 40's speakers, money was a big factor since I could not go over 250, besides that the sub has pretty good reviews on Amazon so we'll see how it goes
 
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wckai

Audiophyte
I had seen that Klipsch sale on Amazon - I've also heard that those regularly go on sale (for the same price) from Frys. But...I've decided to go with NXG based on the suggestions above. That, and I am in full agreement that the gold looks cooler than the Dayton. Newegg order has been placed! Thanks all for the help!

And some newbie follow-up questions for you all (apologizing in advance if some of these questions are really dumb):
- Would using something like a SubDude be recommended for my space/situation?

- If using dual subs...is there any reason to do a sub crawl (I think it was called), to find optimal positioning of the subs? Or with using two subs, should they then balance out throughout the space so specific positioning becomes not important?

- If it is the below 30Hz frequencies that can cause potential neighbor-backlash...is there a way to cut the sound off at that level? Like have the HT system only play sounds above 30Hz or some other threshold? Or is that a function of the source input?

And one more question:
- What would the recommended upgrade path be for me in the future if (well, *when*...;)) the upgrade bug hits me? Say if I had a budget of $1000-$1500 (but was still in my same apartment) - would dual SB 1000's be a way to go? Or one/two of the HSU's maybe? Or would the dual NXG's carry me for quite some time, so the next step would be to upgrade my Wavecrest LCRs?

I really appreciate all the help/advice/thoughts!
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
Good call on the NXG. There are some pathetic one note subs out there. The Klipsch may or may not be one of them, but unless you can find measurements, or at least, more than a buyer posting how good their first sub sounds, it is better to stick with a known quantity.

If you make a separate post on the sub dude, you will probably get some good feedback. I haven't noticed much difference when I used them in my home. Maybe it matters what type of floor and how it is supported? I can't give much advice on it other than saying it is not "one size fits all" for every situation!

It is still a good idea to do the sub crawl. However, if (like most people) you have limitations on where you would consider putting them, you only need to check those locations that are viable. Having two makes a big difference, but you don't want your listening position to be in a null for either sub. Auddysey can cut back the hot spots, but cannot do much with the dead spots. It may be a good idea to keep the subs out of the corners to lessen the room gain and, thus, be able to play it louder before upsetting the neighbors.

It is a gradual scale. There is not a sudden shift in the behavior of the sound waves when 30Hz is reached. It is just that the lower the frequency, the better it will travel through the walls. Some of the newer receivers have a feature designed with this in mind, but generally the option you have is to lower the volume on the sub (either in the receiver menu or at the sub). For example, in the day, you might run it in the normal position; but at night, you might set the sub down 6 to 8 dB.

I would definitely recommend upgrading the speakers first. I don't have experience with too many speakers in that price range, but something like 3 SVS Ultra Bookshelfs @ $500 each (which I have heard) would provided a substantial upgrade in all of the frequencies we hear best (again, listen to your subs sometime with the speakers disconnected) and also will allow you to drop the crossover to 60Hz (the mid-woof in the SVS is nice and can handle the complex signals). Now your subs are more limited to the lowest frequencies and you are not giving away so much of the mid bass when you turn the subs down.

I should ask what type of music do you listen to? If you listen to something like soft jazz trios and Windham Hill records stuff, you could set the NXG to 80Hz and the HVL would do well, but if you listen to Metallica (and want to hear subtle nuances, which somehow seems like an oxymoron :)), go with 120Hz.

Understand that unless you have had exceptional music systems in your background, you will love the HVL's and the NXG's. They really put out nice sound! You can spend a lot of time regretting or worrying over the compromises you have made due to budget and the neighbors, but once you get things setup and start listening, I'm confident, you will get a big grin listening to your favorite music. It is a great time to be building a system on your budget! Five years ago, we would be begging you to try and increase your budget!
 
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wckai

Audiophyte
Music tastes are more toward the Metallica side of things - mostly Alternative, Rock, Metal, etc. Though I will whip out some rockin' classical on occasion. Looking forward to the 1812 Overture with the new sub!

Though that does raise an interesting question in my mind...the majority of music I listen to is compressed, either mp3's or one of the comcast MusicChoice stations (which I believe are compressed). Makes me wonder how big of a difference I will notice between my normal listening and listening via the original CDs.

NXG delivery on Monday! I'm excited, and looks like I have a lot of fun testing/experimenting in my future. Fingers crossed that I don't have some of the issues with the NXGs that others ordering from Newegg have had. But even if so, when it doubt I can always return and go with the dual Daytons as suggested.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
theJman

theJman

Audioholic Chief
- Would using something like a SubDude be recommended for my space/situation?

- If using dual subs...is there any reason to do a sub crawl (I think it was called), to find optimal positioning of the subs? Or with using two subs, should they then balance out throughout the space so specific positioning becomes not important?

- If it is the below 30Hz frequencies that can cause potential neighbor-backlash...is there a way to cut the sound off at that level? Like have the HT system only play sounds above 30Hz or some other threshold? Or is that a function of the source input?

And one more question:
- What would the recommended upgrade path be for me in the future if (well, *when*...;)) the upgrade bug hits me? Say if I had a budget of $1000-$1500 (but was still in my same apartment) - would dual SB 1000's be a way to go? Or one/two of the HSU's maybe? Or would the dual NXG's carry me for quite some time, so the next step would be to upgrade my Wavecrest LCRs?
A SubDude would be a good idea. It essentially decouples the sub from the floor thereby lowering the physical transmission of bass waves. It does nothing to mitigate the sound from the sub, but the "vibrations" would be curtailed.

One unit or four doesn't matter, if you have the opportunity to do a sub crawl it would be advisable to do so. You might be surprised on where your room decides they will perform best.

It's probably not a good idea to start considering an upgrade of your subwoofer before you even get the new one. ;) That could be the beginning of a downward spiral. Kurt is right; for the discerning individual on a budget the WaveCrest/NXG combo will be tough to beat. Although I didn't hear both together, I did review each and I think they're worth more than their respective selling prices indicate. Combined I suspect you'll end up being quite pleased.
 
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wckai

Audiophyte
Okay, so I need a bit more advice.

I'm having an issue with the NXG's (delivered yesterday!) auto-standby. I know Jim mentioned it in his review that the sub seems to go in/out of standby a little too easily, but I was thinking it would only come up if I were watching a movie and there was an extended period of just dialogue. Or I had to pause/mute my system for a bit.

Turns out...the sub is going in/out of standby while I'm listening to music. And it's even doing it mid-song, which can't possibly be right. It would also go into standby after a few minutes when a constant test tone (the built-in test tone with my NR636 receiver in the "level calibration" settings) was playing. So it seems it's not always recognizing the signal from my receiver.

In reading online a bit, seems like some others have had a similar issue with the Onkyo, but I'm guessing the issue is compounded with the NXG's tendency to go into standby itself. I could try to increase the output dB for the sub from the receiver...but I'm concerned that that would just lead to irritated neighbors. The current level of the sub sounds good to me...when the sub is on.

So I'm wondering if I should return the NXG to newegg while I can easily do so, and look into the Daytons as previously mentioned - though Jim's review also mentions that the SUB-1200 goes into standby really easily as well. Another option would be to keep the sub always on - but that seems like a waste of power (and may have its own issues?).

Any suggestions? Thanks again!
 
KEW

KEW

Audioholic Overlord
That is a pretty common issue for subs, but it sounds like the NXG is worse than most.
For now, turn on the subs to "always on" instead of "auto on" (I have no idea how these are labeled on your sub, but assume there is a manual on-off switch).

You can use one of these if you plug your receiver into the "master" and the subs into the "slaves::

http://www.amazon.com/Monster-HDP-650G-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B002RL9XQW

or:
http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-AV-775G-PowerCenter/dp/B004H1PV4S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1440528576&sr=1-1&keywords=monster+775g

BTW, Monster products are notoriously over-priced, but these are heavily discounted closeouts(?) making them good buys.
 
theJman

theJman

Audioholic Chief
Okay, so I need a bit more advice.

I'm having an issue with the NXG's (delivered yesterday!) auto-standby. I know Jim mentioned it in his review that the sub seems to go in/out of standby a little too easily, but I was thinking it would only come up if I were watching a movie and there was an extended period of just dialogue. Or I had to pause/mute my system for a bit.

Turns out...the sub is going in/out of standby while I'm listening to music. And it's even doing it mid-song, which can't possibly be right. It would also go into standby after a few minutes when a constant test tone (the built-in test tone with my NR636 receiver in the "level calibration" settings) was playing. So it seems it's not always recognizing the signal from my receiver.

In reading online a bit, seems like some others have had a similar issue with the Onkyo, but I'm guessing the issue is compounded with the NXG's tendency to go into standby itself. I could try to increase the output dB for the sub from the receiver...but I'm concerned that that would just lead to irritated neighbors. The current level of the sub sounds good to me...when the sub is on.

So I'm wondering if I should return the NXG to newegg while I can easily do so, and look into the Daytons as previously mentioned - though Jim's review also mentions that the SUB-1200 goes into standby really easily as well. Another option would be to keep the sub always on - but that seems like a waste of power (and may have its own issues?).
See, Jim isn't as dumb as he looks. Thankfully... ;)

Perhaps a Y adapter might help. When one of these is used the amp will see double the input signal strength, thereby fooling it into thinking the output from the source has been turned up (louder). You will need to drop the subwoofers gain a little to compensate, but there's certainly nothing wrong with this solution. It's actually used quite frequently. AAMOF, that's how I ran the NXG for the most part.
 
W

wckai

Audiophyte
Thanks Kurt and Jim! Good suggestions - I'll give them both a try before looking into swapping NXG for something else. (and as an aside, thanks Jim for all of those reviews you've written - very handy for a newbie like me!)

I'm sure the power strip will come in handy even if I end up using it for something other than the receiver/sub.

A quick question on the use of the Y-adapter: That should be used to split the single cable from the receiver into two, which are then plugged into the L & R inputs on the sub, right? As opposed to plugging in twice to the receiver (as it's a 7.2 receiver and has two subwoofer connections) and merging into one cable which goes to the sub. The first option is correct, I'm thinking?
 
theJman

theJman

Audioholic Chief
Thanks Kurt and Jim! Good suggestions - I'll give them both a try before looking into swapping NXG for something else. (and as an aside, thanks Jim for all of those reviews you've written - very handy for a newbie like me!)

You're quite welcome. I'm glad you've found some benefit from them.

A quick question on the use of the Y-adapter: That should be used to split the single cable from the receiver into two, which are then plugged into the L & R inputs on the sub, right?

Correct.
 
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