Binding posts rattling!

[Sheep]

Ok, I've been trying out various connections to get rid of my stupid binding post rattle, and still, after Banana, Spade, Locking Banana, and bare wire, they still rattle.

Is there any modification I can do internally (without modifying the cabinet with more bracing) to get rid of this? I don't know what to do. It always happens on "Starting Over - The Crystal Method" at the beginning. The rattle is situated in the midbass range (maybe 200, 300Hz).

Please, any help is greatly appreciated.

SheepStar
EDIT: It happens around 150-250Hz

 

[markw]

Could it be the posts themselves?

Can you get inside the cabinet to see if they can be tightened from behind? Sometimes they're just bolted into place with a simple nut/bolt arrangement.

 

[majorloser]

How about a drop of Super Glue?

 

[Sheep]

The part that vibrates (I think) is the bolt on the exterior of the speaker that is used to screw down on the wire. Right now I have the locking Bananas in place and when I grab the bolt, it stops. I can't get it tight enough by hand, and I fear breaking something if I really reef on it.

I also tightend the cup itself and it still vibrates.

I have looked inside the speaker, and it has about 3 inches on yellow insulation just stuffed in the enclosure. Would getting some Peal 'n Seal be a better option?

SheepStar
Pics of inside as well as binding posts.

 

[j_garcia]

Try some teflon tape.

 

[Seth=L]

I have this same problem with my Infinity IL 10's. Were do you get teflon tape, and how do you apply it?

 

[Sheep]

Try some teflon tape.

Tape the binding posts together to stop the vibration? I don't know, I don't want to get cancer.

SheepStar

 

[majorloser]

A very small drop of super glues does work. They have very strong pulling strength, but weak shear strength. (you can't pull glued fingers apart but you can twist or shear the glue off.) So the binding post and parts can still come apart. You can also use thread locking agents like Loctite. They make some removable formulas for threaded and slip fit items.

 

[Sheep]

A very small drop of super glues does work. They have very strong pulling strength, but weak shear strength. (you can't pull glued fingers apart but you can twist or shear the glue off.) So the binding post and parts can still come apart. You can also use thread locking agents like Loctite. They make some removable formulas for threaded and slip fit items.

I'm not feeling to hot about gluing the bindsing posts. Thanks though.

I'll wait until WmAx comes on and see what he has to say.

Thanks for the responses guys(and girls, just being safe), I feared this thread would fall of the radar.

SheepStar

 

[majorloser]

A drop of removable thread locker. They make some for RC planes that's very easy to remove but can handle high stress and vibration.

EDIT: I guess a little speaker sealing tape under the terminal block could also help.

 

[majorloser]

If it's the whole binding post terminal block that's vibrating, a little black silicone RTV sealant under it before the screws are tightened down................just a thought.

 

[Jack Hammer]

If it's the whole binding post terminal block that's vibrating, a little black silicone RTV sealant under it before the screws are tightened down................just a thought.

That's what I would probably do. You could also get a pair of rubber flat washers and make a cut from the center hole to the outer edge. Then put them around the posts and tighten them down.

If all else fails, buy some new ones from parts express and replace them.

Jack

 

[Bluesmoke]

hey man, those are some cool looking banana plugs. What are they?

 

[Sheep]

hey man, those are some cool looking banana plugs. What are they?

Their of the locking variety. I spent far to much money on them ($80 for 2 speakers).

WBT, and other companies make them. Mine are from Ultralink.

SheepStar

 

[Geno]

If you can hear the binding posts vibrating, you haven't turned it up loud enough!

 

[gmichael]

I vote for the teflon tape on the threads. You can find it in the plumbing section of Home Depot or Lowes. (as well as many other stores) Loctite would work also but I would not do the superglue thing. It may work fine, but it would bug me unless I had tried it before.

 

[j_garcia]

Teflon tape aka plumber's tape. Put it on the threads and it should keep them from vibrating. Same thing for Loctite thread locker - a little dab should do the trick too, but teflon tape is cheaper.

LOL, expensive bananas with el-cheapo wire.

 

[MDS]

If you end up using teflon tape just remember to wrap it around the screw counter-clockwise. If you wrap it clockwise, it will unwind as you turn the screw because you are also turning the screw clockwise to tighten.

 

[Resident Loser]

A huge resounding...

If you end up using teflon tape just remember to wrap it around the screw counter-clockwise. If you wrap it clockwise, it will unwind as you turn the screw because you are also turning the screw clockwise to tighten.

...HUH!...Righty-tighty, lefty-loosey...Wrap it clockwise cuz thats the direction of travel to tighten...your way the flap of tape will be facing the wrong direction...

But anywho...Take off the locknut and washers...any rattle? If No, the washers and locknuts are the cause...check for foreign matter in the posts' threads, maybe bent washers...If Yes: Is there a second nut on the stud? Is IT loose? If so get a deep-well socket of the appropriate size and hand-tighten it...If the the problem disappears, just reassemble your washers and locknuts...finito! If not, let us know...

No muss-no fuss, no band-aids, glue or tape required...

jimHJJ(...I know, it's only nuts and bolts but I like it...)

 

[Sheep]

The lock nut doesn't "come off" it just backs up and seems to tighten up again near the end of its threads. I'm going to pull the cup out today and see if it could be coming from inside.

Ok, I just pulled the cup, and everything seems tight.

I'm going to buy some rubber washers and see if this will fix the problem.

Thanks guys,

SheepStar