Below 20Hz?

[jeanseb]

I always wondered what's the point of having subs going under 20Hz if the human audible range start at 20Hz?

 

[sawzalot]

I would say that sometimes its not always what you hear , but it is what you "feel" I know my subs hit ya in the chest on some HT scenes I love that feeling my drywall is not happy at this point, lol...

 

[j_garcia]

Stuff that hits you in the chest is not below 20Hz. Yes the reason you want a sub that goes below 20Hz is because sound is vibration and you can still perceive what you feel as part of the sound experience. A particular sound, such as an explosion, is not a single sound, but a collection of different frequencies and some of those may be below 20Hz. It lends a LOT more realism to movies. It helps with music too, but there tends to be a lot less stuff below 20Hz in most music.

 

[jeanseb]

OK. It makes sens to me now! Too bad my sub will only go down to 23Hz

Thanks guys!

 

[Surroundpro]

20 hz

I agree, the stuff you can feel is usually around the 45 hz range ... below 20 hz will strictly add realism to crashes, gunshots or humpback whale dialogue...lol

 

[annunaki]

I wondered that myself a number of times until I experienced it many years ago.

Watching Valkyrie the other night: when they go into the cellar with the children and the bombs are going off getting closer & closer; you can literally feel the pressure wave, my house shook(as well as the one in the movie). That reminded me why it is so nice to have.

 

[Spesh]

Most people have never actually heard 20hz or below. Having an enclosure that can reproduce these frequencies effectively needs to be very large itself and does not work well in smaller rooms due to the nature of the wavelength in this frequency range. Anything sub 30hz just creates a sort of pressure. It doesn't even make things vibrate.

 

[lsiberian]

I always wondered what's the point of having subs going under 20Hz if the human audible range start at 20Hz?

Usually room gain is pretty strong in the subsonic range so you can get away with a drop there. 23hz is a good bottom actually. What really makes the difference is low distortion. If your sub doesn't skip a beat at 25hz then you will feel the movie. Believe me.

 

[jliedeka]

I recently saw a similar thread on AVS Forum. Someone posted graphs showing how much subsonic info was on certain big action films. You can get serious amounts of single digit frequencies. I want my next sub to be flat to DC.

Jim

 

[jeanseb]

If your sub doesn't skip a beat at 25hz then you will feel the movie. Believe me.

Mine are suppose to have a "DLS (Distortion Limited System)". To be honest , I don't if that work, but I can assure you that at 30% volume, the rattle the crap out of my drywall. But that's another problem, I have some much low bass 40Hz-, but have a really hard time getting the kick (60-120Hz)...

 

[Seth=L]

I believe you'll be needing one of these.

 

[jeanseb]

I believe you'll be needing one of these.

What is this???

 

[WmAx]

Most people have never actually heard 20hz or below. Having an enclosure that can reproduce these frequencies effectively needs to be very large itself and does not work well in smaller rooms due to the nature of the wavelength in this frequency range. Anything sub 30hz just creates a sort of pressure. It doesn't even make things vibrate.

Depends on the driver. You can use for example, TC Sounds 15" AXIS or LMS drivers in a small sealed box and add a LF gain, if you have a 2000 Watts or higher power amplifier. In a normal size room, 12-14Hz response is rather easy to obtain at relatively high SPL. However, these are by no means 'normal' drivers.

-Chris

 

[Seth=L]

What is this???

it's a subwoofer, can't you tell?

just google "fan subwoofer"

 

[boltman]

Depends on the driver. You can use for example, TC Sounds 15" AXIS or LMS drivers in a small sealed box and add a LF gain, if you have a 2000 Watts or higher power amplifier. In a normal size room, 12-14Hz response is rather easy to obtain at relatively high SPL. However, these are by no means 'normal' drivers.

-Chris

Chris,

I am new to this forum but have followed some of your posts. I want to acquire a better sub and would like your input.

Would you offer a recommendation for the componets of a sub using this driver, Audiopulse AX12Q1 AXIS 12" Quad Coil Subwoofer 1 Ohm? Or another one you may rate higher.

Thanks in advance.

George

 

[lsiberian]

Chris,

I am new to this forum but have followed some of your posts. I want to acquire a better sub and would like your input.

Would you offer a recommendation for the componets of a sub using this driver, Audiopulse AX12Q1 AXIS 12" Quad Coil Subwoofer 1 Ohm? Or another one you may rate higher.

Thanks in advance.

George

That's a great driver and I'm sure Chris would endorse it. It's a rebadged TC Sounds driver. PDawg uses the 12" version and loves it.

 

[WmAx]

Chris,

I am new to this forum but have followed some of your posts. I want to acquire a better sub and would like your input.

Would you offer a recommendation for the componets of a sub using this driver, Audiopulse AX12Q1 AXIS 12" Quad Coil Subwoofer 1 Ohm? Or another one you may rate higher.

Thanks in advance.

George

The AXIS 12" or JL Audio 13" w7, both superb, world class performance. If you want even better, you can go with the 12" or 15" Sound Splinter RL-S subwoofers. These are re-badged TC Sounds LMS drivers; a fantastic bargain.

-Chris

 

[boltman]

The AXIS 12" or JL Audio 13" w7, both superb, world class performance. If you want even better, you can go with the 12" or 15" Sound Splinter RL-S subwoofers. These are re-badged TC Sounds LMS drivers; a fantastic bargain.

-Chris

Chris,

These drivers look amazing.

I can go with the 12" RL-S. This will be my first build so I need a little more information. I saw your post here the other day:

//forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?p=653033#post653033

I would appreciate your opinion on an amp and where can I find a 4.5 to 5.0 cu. ft cabinet and would it be better to vent or not and how many vents would be required. I quess I need to know how to build this thing.

Thanks for your help.

George

 

[KEW]

I can go with the 12" RL-S. This will be my first build so I need a little more information.

Unfortunately, it seems the supply of these drivers is getting low.
Give Mike at Sound Splinter a call (818-429-7068) and see if he can get you a RL-s12 before you invest too much effort in a design. He may have a handfull coming in in January, but I understood that he was going to discontinue carrying them!
Good luck!

 

[basspig]

I may be biased, but I can tell you that sub-20Hz can be VERY audible, if it's really loud. It just has to be 60dB louder than higher frequencies near the middle of the spectrum to produce equal loudness sensation. However, these frequencies can be dangerous in contractor-built homes and I don't recommend producing anything over 120dB in a residence, unless you like to redo all of the sheetrock on your ceilings, which will promptly come disattached and fall onto the furniture/floor/etc. In addition, don't do this in a neighborhood where there are other homes nearby. The neighbors will arrange a lynching most likely if you do, especially if your vibratory experiments result in knocking expensive glassware off of shelves in your neighbor's home.