APC H10 power conditioner enough power for my setup?

[YOTR]

I have a friend that is upgrading to a larger power conditioner and is offering his 6 month old H10 to me for free. I am somewhat concerned though that my current setup will go over the continous power rating of the H10. I honestly don't know if I am adding it up right though so I would appreciate any help.

Pioneer Plasma 600m: I believe it's close to 500 watts continous but I couldn't find the exact number.
PS3: 380 watts
XBOX 360: 160 watts
Dish HD DVR 722: 60-90 watts
DVD player: I assume less than 50 watts
Sony CT100 (soon to be CT500): 70 watts

It looks like I would have issues but I don't know if I am reading it correctly (I assume I just add up the watts to see if it goes over the 1000 watt mark). At most I would just have the tv, one console, DVR, and surround sound system connected but it looks like that goes over the 1000 watt mark (if I am using the PS3). I have seen other posts with users that have the H10 connected with as much stuff as me but I wanted to be sure before I picked it up. Thanks in advance!

 

[MDS]

I have an APC H10 and use a 52" Toshiba LCD, receiver, DVD player, and cable box and I've never seen the load light go beyond 40%.

Keep in mind that those watt figures are the MAX and in most cases they will be drawing far less, not to mention that you will not have all of the devices drawing power at the same time.

Most importantly, it's FREE. Just get it and see how it works.

The only negative to the H10, IMO, is the incredibly bright blue leds they used for every single indicator. There are 8 dim settings but you'd be hard pressed to tell any difference between full on bright and the lowest setting. I'm thinking of selling it just for that reason...I can't stand blue leds and I wish the manufacturers would drop that stupid trend immediately.

 

[YOTR]

I have an APC H10 and use a 52" Toshiba LCD, receiver, DVD player, and cable box and I've never seen the load light go beyond 40%.

Keep in mind that those watt figures are the MAX and in most cases they will be drawing far less, not to mention that you will not have all of the devices drawing power at the same time.

Most importantly, it's FREE. Just get it and see how it works.

The only negative to the H10, IMO, is the incredibly bright blue leds they used for every single indicator. There are 8 dim settings but you'd be hard pressed to tell any difference between full on bright and the lowest setting. I'm thinking of selling it just for that reason...I can't stand blue leds and I wish the manufacturers would drop that stupid trend immediately.

Well that makes me feel better. I just figured that those were continuous watts (for my components) which would put me over the limit. Are the lights really that bad? I had contemplated getting an H15 but don't know if it's worth $150 (what I can currently get it for).

 

[popotoys]

Well that makes me feel better. I just figured that those were continuous watts (for my components) which would put me over the limit. Are the lights really that bad? I had contemplated getting an H15 but don't know if it's worth $150 (what I can currently get it for).

You can turn the lights of on the H10 if you wish. After the initial coolness with watching the lights, there really is no reason to have them on if you don't want to see them.