Any point in upgrading from my Onkyo HTiB receiver?

[yepimonfire]

I bought an HTiB about 3 years ago. The only thing I have kept from it is the receiver and the sub. The sub is an 8" passive subwoofer driven by the receiver, at this point I do not have any reason to replace it because it is one of the only speakers that came with the unit that sounds good. The rest of the speakers I am using are klipsch. Fronts are R-15ms, and an R-25C rated at 94dB/W/m. Surrounds are Klipsch KB-15 rated at 91dB. The only inefficient speaker is the sub, which is 83dB, and is 6 ohms. Onkyo rates the receiver as being capable of providing 110w minimum continuous power with 1ch driven at 6 ohms. The klipsch are 8 ohms.

I am seated about 8ft from the mains and the sub is about 4ft from me. I'd like enough headroom to achieve a 95dB peak across all channels with an average continuous volume of about 80dB. The sub handle all bass below 100hz because I have a square room that needs perfect subwoofer placement in order to get the best response. Onkyo also rates it as having a maximum peak power into 8 ohms as 85w. Based on a calculator provided by harman, if all channels were being driven to produce a 95dB peak, I would be using 99 watts. I have no idea how 1ch driven ratings convert over to all channels driven, I just want to ensure I have enough dynamic headroom. I really have no complaints about the functionality of the receiver except that there is no line out for a sub, just a high level.

 

[KenM10759]

You have an "OK" set of speakers (to my ears very bright) and they are very efficient, as you seem to be aware.

I believe what you are not fully aware of is that you're really not getting much bass at all from that passive 8" sub. I wouldn't really call that a subwoofer so much as it's a "bass driver."

You do NOT need a powerful receiver to get the volume you're looking for with those speakers, what you need is a subwoofer pre-out and a good powered sub, a real one. Stop worrying about watts per channel and get an active subwoofer.

You're probably best to hit Craiglist and find a used later model receiver that has HDMI, or buy a new one from Best Buy, Accessories4Less.com or other bargain outlet. Something like the Denon S510BT or Yamaha RX-V379 for $180 would blow your mind and allow you to get a decent true subwoofer. That's a whole other discussion, but suffice to say you'd be shocked at what even a less-than $300 sub would do for you.

 

[cel4145]

I agree. Focus on a sub upgrade. The passive subs in HTIB sets are just not very good at all.

 

[lovinthehd]

Just to be able to have more options in bass management the avr upgrade may be worth it. What bass management options does your current unit have?

You might look for an active sub with high level inputs if you don't upgrade the avr, that would at least free up some amp power for you.

 

[Mark of Cenla]

^ seems like a good idea. Peace and goodwill.

 

[KenM10759]

No replies from the OP in over a day. No idea what model receiver, no clue on budget (if any.)

We try to help....

 

[yepimonfire]

Actually the sub is quite capable in a small room. - 3dB extension down to 30hz in room as measured by myself, very little obvious coloration and no one note booms. The cabinet is made of 5/8" MDF and even had some bracing in the corners. The major cost cutting on this unit appears to have come from the satellites, which were 3.5" full range drivers housed in plastic cabinets, the utilization of the receiver as a subwoofer amp, and the utilization of spring clips instead of binding posts on the receiver. There is a reason I have not bothered replacing the subwoofer. I have previously owned better subs that were sold when I took on other hobbies so I have a reference to go on. The model receiver comes from an onkyo hts 3500.

The other option is to purchase a sub with high level inputs, and just run the subwoofer high level into that. The receiver has your regular bass management. 40hz to 200hz variable 12dB active crossover, single crossover for all channels. Despite being capable of 60hz in room, all speakers are crossed over at 100hz due to screwy room acoustics.

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