I would recomend VCs in each or the rooms so you can easily adjust the volume level or turn off the speakers. You can get impedance matching volume controls for about $20 each and they fit in a single gang electircal box. You can use your current amp to drive the 2 pairs of speakers in the kitchen and on the patio fed by a line level Zone 2 out from a HT receiver for your main 5.1 or 7.1 system. Using the receiver you can select the different (or the same) ANALOG source for the Zone2/3 speakers.
Thanks, jcP!
So I'm now looking to include an in-line audio VC (volume control). But, the best location in the kitchen would be right next to the light switches (some with dimmers) and that would mean the audio cable run would have to be placed near and mostly in parallel to the electrical lines for about 6+ feet (2-ways) into and out of the VC.
Here are some ideas on what to do:
-- buy conduit for either the electrical runs or the audio run to cancel/limit the EMI/RFI issues. Concerns: (a) does it work? (b) which one should I run thru the conduit? audio or electrical?
-- buy a run of shielded in-wall audio cable, and hope it cancels this areas' EMI/RFI issues. Concerns: (a) too expensive to buy for all the wiring I'm wanting to do. (b) Is it available somewhere (online, big box, etc.) for this one run? (c) won't it have to be grounded back at the source hub? And if so... How do I do that with a standard HT audio faceplate?
-- buy all (or just a run of) twisted-pair in-wall audio cable, and hope it cancels this areas' EMI/RFI issues. Concerns: (a) does it work? (b) value per cost if I buy enough for the entire wiring job. (c) Is it available somewhere (online, big box, etc.) for this one run?
NOTE: I found some "in-wall" speaker cabling (high strand, OFC) that is not twisted pair. 1 is lableled "concentric" the other has no label. Does concentric help to cancel EMI/RFI?