2-way large bookshelf design

N

nm2285

Senior Audioholic
I recently designed and built a 2-way bookshelf speaker project. I'm thrilled with the results. They've replace my NHT SB2s. Their overall clarity, detail, and soundstage have thoroughly impressed me. Their one weakness is a bit of bass deficiency (+/- 3dB at 67 Hz). I had a sub going into the project, so this didn't bother me too much. Here's a brief design description in case it inspires anyone:

Drivers: Peerless 850122
Vifa XT19
Approximate volume of enclosure: .52 cu ft.
External Dim of enclosure: 9.5"x10.5"x14"
Material: 3/4" MDF

Crossover: 4th Order Linkwitz-Riley at 2700 Hz (this avoids distortion in the Vifa and a bit of unevenness in the Peerless).

I offset the center of the tweeter 1 inch from the center of the midrange. One brace (3x8) was attached to the back and sides. The box was sealed using polyurethane glue. The drivers were flush mounted. Most materials were purchased from Madisound; they were great to deal with.

I also made my own stands for them using some of the leftover MDF and PVC pipe. I connected the bases across the pipe using 3/8" all-thread rod. They are sand filled, attached to the PVC with polyurethane glue, and caulked to ensure a tight seal.

They're mated with a HK DVD101 and a NAD C370. The results of my first project are (IMO) outstanding.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
nm2285 said:
Crossover: 4th Order Linkwitz-Riley at 2700 Hz (this avoids distortion in the Vifa and a bit of unevenness in the Peerless).
Details please. Curious minds want to know :D. I especially want to see how you handled the impedance differences in the two drivers.

I have built the AR.com kit that Madisound sells. It uses the same Peerless 6½" woofer you used, with a Peerless 812687 1" fabric dome tweeter. So I am curious to see what others have done with this woofer.

Madisound sells the components as a kit with assembled crossovers designed by Ed Frias for little more than the cost of the unassembled parts. I believe the crossover occurs somewhat lower than yours, at about 2300 Hz. The cabinet is a bit smaller than yours and uses a 2"×6" port. It may be that this ported cabinet allows somewhat louder bass response than your sealed design, but I agree with your observation about using a subwoofer with these small 2-ways. For anyone interested, full details can be read at the Madisound website. I think you probably have already seen it.

I use mine with an old 30 watt/channel Marantz 2230 stereo reciever that I first bought in 1973. The speakers are efficient enough for that small amp. The Peerless woofer does wonderful things in the midrange. The sound is clear, uncolored (IMO), and widely dispersed.
 
N

nm2285

Senior Audioholic
I'll post the details in a day or two...

I decided to make my speakers sealed because the port would have been (ideally) very big for the setup and because I wasn't too worried about the bass response.

Swerd:
How do you like the Peerless midrange? And, how is the tweeter you used?
 
Rip Van Woofer

Rip Van Woofer

Audioholic General
How 'bout some pictures?

Congratulations!
 
N

nm2285

Senior Audioholic
Thanks Rip-
Pictures will come eventually. I'm still finishing the exteriors.
 
T

taatoo

Audiophyte
CONGRATULATIONS!!!

i'm very interested in your crossover design! may i have a look?
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
nm2285 - Thanks for the schematic of your crossover.

You asked earlier what I thought of the Peerless woofer and tweeter I used. The lack of distortion and wide dispersion across the midrange (including the crossover region) is what I think makes this speaker so good. It has more of that difficult to describe quality where the musicians sound as if they have stepped out of the speaker box and are in the room with me than any other small 2-way I've heard. I believe some refer to this quality as "soundstage".

This was my first DIY speaker and I did not design this myself. It is a kit that had been designed and tested by someone else, Ed Frias. The full details including crossover schematic can be found here http://www.audioreview.com/DIY^speakercrx.aspx. Madisound sells all the components including assembled crossovers and cabinets. To find it from the Madisound homepage http://www.madisound.com/, click on the kits link on the menu on the left side. The AR.COM Kit by EFE Technology is the 1st kit on their list. For about $340 a pair, I think it is one the great bargains around. I honestly believe it sounds as good as commercial 2-ways that retail for $1000 or more a pair.

The obvious differences between yours and mine are the tweeters, the crossover, and the use of a ported or sealed box. They both use the same woofer that Peerless describes as a
6½" high-end woofer with heavy magnet and large voice coil. All-around bass reflex driver suitable for a wide range of box sizes (8-50 ltrs.). The speaker impresses with a very deep and dry bass, and a crisp and clear midrange with very low distortion.​
It would be interesting to hear both yours and mine side by side. Since we probably can't easily do that, I can always speculate on how they might differ :rolleyes:.

  • I wonder if your higher crossover frequency and steeper rolloff alters the wide dispersion character across the midrange. How did you come up with your crossover design? Computer modeling alone, or did you also experiment by building several different crossovers varying the crossover frequencies or slopes to listen to them?
  • Ed Frias says he tried changing the bass response by varying the box volume. He says that larger box volumes did produce more bass lower than 60 Hz, but it came at the expense of that marvelous midrange. The design uses small 15 L ported cabinet well stuffed with polyester fiberfill. I never thought of using a sealed cabinet.
  • Ed Frias also suggested adding to the 5 ohm resistance in the tweeter part of the crossover, by adding an extra resistor between the crossover and the tweeter (as shown in the diagram). He suggested trying values from 0.5 to 6 ohms. I ended up using a 2 ohm resistor for this. Less than 2 made the tweeter too bright compared to the woofer.
 
N

nm2285

Senior Audioholic
Swerd:

I designed the crossovers using computer modeling. Using graphs and measurements from the tweeter and midrange, making the crossover 2700Hz avoided incresed distortion in lower frequencies in the tweeter and avoided some less consistent outputs from the Peerless above 2700 Hz.

As you can see, my box is on the larger side of the boxes Frias tested. However, since it is sealed, it does not have the best bass extension. I still hear the dry quality of upper bass and I think without the port, the big box doesn't hurt the midrange much. (My cabinet is also filled iwth polyfill).
 
N

nm2285

Senior Audioholic
PS: about the tweeter being too bright compared to the midrange...although I definately wouldn't consider my design warm sounding, it seems pretty neutral if maybe slightly bright. However, the sound is never fatiguing, not even at very high volumes.
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
FWIW, there are a few other DIY designs, all using either the Peerless 6½" or 5¼" CSX mid/woofers combined with various tweeters. There must be something good about them.

The AR.com using Peerless/Peerless, or the Pee Pee.

A Peerless/Morel kit sold by Parts Express, or the More Pee. http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=209

A Peerless/North Creek design, or the Pee Creek.
http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_files/Projects/peecreek/pcrkmain.htm

And now yours, the Peerless/Vifa. Should you name it the ViPee? :D

It looks like a good design. Enjoy it. I wish I could hear it.
 
U

Unregistered

Guest
Without the exteriors finshed, all I call them right now is ugly. I do like ViPee though! Nice ring to it!
 

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