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You can try replacing the remote, but if that doesn’t work, then like TLS said – it’s done. Regards, Wayne A. Pflughaupt

We get questions like this pretty frequently. There’s only so much troubleshooting that can be done remotely. The four-conductor cable is typical for in-ceiling and in-wall installations. The trick is to figure out the color code the installers used for connections. I believe that red/black...

I think a big factor in the decline in traditional home theater systems is a replay of decades past, i.e. cassettes vs. LPs, VHS vs. Beta, and streaming vs. CDs and Blu-Rays: To wit, to a significant portion of the population, convenience trumps quality. For them (as with cassettes and VHS)...

I’ll take this part: All that means is that the input sensitivity for both amplifiers is the same (i.e. both amps “gets running” with the same signal level from the preamp). Assuming one amp is more powerful than the other, you’ll only be able to tell a difference on the “top end:” When...

Adding a bit to what @TLS Guy said about the MLP and a null – you haven’t mentioned much about your room, but generally speaking, perceived bass levels are strongest near a wall, and decrease as you move towards the center of the room. The dead center of the room ends up being a bass “dead...

Most likely the only way to do this for the subwoofer only would be to use a pro-audio signal limiter. You could insert it in-line between the receiver and subwoofer. The good news is that good analog models sell pretty cheap used, as the pro market has largely incorporated this function into...

Since you didn’t figure it out on your own, allow me to help: You’ve landed at a Forum where physical media is very popular. Regards, Wayne A. Pflughaupt

As long as the speaker itself is not facing the couch or the wall, it will work fine. Whether or not you’ll get an improvement in sound is anyone’s guess. Properly integrating subwoofers can be tricky. Regards, Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Doubtful it will work – the Yamaha’s built-in protection circuitry will probably shut it down. Your best bet is to run one of the speaker pairs from a separate amplifier. This will be easy to do if your Yamaha has RCA preamp outputs for the front left and right channels. Regards, Wayne A...

Judging by the gear listed (especially the mics and all the lighting equipment) I think this is some kind of performance venue. The OP mentioned "upgrade," so that probably explains the lack of audio gear - i.e, they aren't changing what they have. It would probably be pro audio PA equipment...

This is a home theater forum, so you’re not likely to find many people familiar with equipment used in professional installations, especially where lighting is concerned. I suggest consulting the manuals for said equipment and / or the dealer(s) who sold it all to you. Complicated professional...

Those are some pretty old speakers (not that anything’s wrong with that). Here’s the Sound and Vision review Ryan referred to, that notes Paradigm intentionally traded extension to accommodate high efficiency (which is pretty high, if the specs are accurate). Surprisingly, the huge...

Foolishly forgot that a headphone jack could be used for the transmitter, too. Regards, Wayne A. Pflughaupt

If the Onkyo receivers has RCA outputs, such as tape out or main L/R preamp out, then you can use a Bluetooth transmitter. The Avantree Oasis seems to get good reviews. It seems most transmitters these days use AptX, so your friend’s speaker will have to be AptX equipped, too. If not, I think...

He edited the original post. Regards, Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Either move the box closer to the sub, or further away, as you prefer. Kidding aside, I’m fairly certain few reading the post will have a clue what it means. Regards, Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Where did you see that they're 4-ohm? It's hard to find any specs on them! Regards, Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Looking around the web, I don’t see anything to suggest that the 501s are a difficult speaker to drive. Therefore they should work with any amplifier you wish to use. Regards, Wayne A. Pflughaupt

If practical, the tweeter should be roughly at ear level when you are seated. Other drivers in the cabinet don’t matter. Regards, Wayne A. Pflughaupt

The CDX must have quite a player. According to my old Audio magazine annual buyer’s guide, it listed for $700 in 1990. From what I can find, even now people are asking close to $300 for them used. I’d be shocked if the S1000 sounded better. On top of that, it isn’t going to have the cool...