Can you go a little higher? The motor on this one is made for 220V/110V and has a riving knife. If you plan to work with sheet goods a lot, the riving knife is a great safety feature and it's one of the first available in the US with that. Europe banned saws without a riving knife quite a while ago and it's illegal to remove it for cutting a dado over there.
http://grizzly.com/products/10-2-HP-Contractor-Style-Table-Saw-with-riving-knife/G0661
I have four Grizzly machines and they have all been great. I've read comments from people at
www.taunton.com in the forums about how bad Grizzly and all of the imported machines are but literally all of the major woodworking machine companies have at least part of their line made in China, usually at the same plants. General makes their own, but General International is made in China. My saw is dead accurate after 7 years.
Look for sales on the Forrest WoodWorker II blade. It's the best I have used and mine has been sharpened once in the time I have had it. I have cut particle board, MDF, laminated materials, oak, cherry, hard maple, plastics, masonite and solid surface material with excellent results.
First time I handled it after unpacking it and checking it out, I put it away. A few minutes later, my hand was sticky. Turns out that I had cut my fingers but never felt it. If you know what a glue line rip is (a rip so clean and straight that it needs no other prep before gluing the pieces together, this blade will cut that well. Woods with higher sugar content (maple and cherry) are more likely to burn, but if the feed rate and cutting depth are OK, it should leave clean surfaces. With oak, poplar and mahogany, nothing more is needed.