Thor Kit: Anyone build it?

Rickster71

Rickster71

Audioholic Spartan
Hello all, I been thinking about building a kit, the Thor TL http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=35_40_401_276
Thought this would get noticed more here, than in DIY thread.
TLS Guy gave it his seal of approval.(Though at the time, he was drinking, and was dressed as a matador.) :D

So I got to wondering if anyone has built this kit? (with, or without cabinets)
I'll probably build my own cabinets. Would be interested what you thought of their boxes, anyway?

Thanks,
Rick
 
Swerd

Swerd

Audioholic Warlord
Hello all, I been thinking about building a kit, the Thor TL http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=35_40_401_276
Thought this would get noticed more here, than in DIY thread.
TLS Guy gave it his seal of approval.(Though at the time, he was drinking, and was dressed as a matador.) :D

So I got to wondering if anyone has built this kit? (with, or without cabinets)
I'll probably build my own cabinets. Would be interested what you thought of their boxes, anyway?
Rick

I haven't built this kit or heard one, but I have read comments from others who have and also heard from a more experienced crossover designer who had the opportunity to measure a Thor's frequency response. The short answer is, save your money.

The SEAS W18 magnesium drivers in this kit are first rate. Two of them are capable of both excellent bass response and highly detailed midrange. I know less about the tweeter, but it is safe to say it is very capable. The problems reported for the Thor are due to the crossover and not the drivers per se. There is a notable dip in response across the crossover region, leading to an overall response that some describe as "veiled" and others describe as "laid back". Some like it and some don't. For that price, I think you should get as flat and smooth a response as possible.

Another feature about the Thor kit that I am not sure about is how well the transmission line (TL) cabinet performs. Until rather recently, designing TL cabinets was somewhat hit or miss. When Martin King developed his TL worksheets, it was impossible to accurately predict the bass response of a cabinet design until it was actually built. With King's worksheets, you can easily model different cabinet tunings until you find an optimum design. I'm not sure the Thor was developed using King's design tools, and if not, I would advise avoiding their cabinet design.

So with the subpar crossovers and the uncertainty about the TL cabinet design, I'd say save your money. You certainly can build excellent speakers with these drivers, but you will need a better crossover, and you may need a different cabinet design.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Hello all, I been thinking about building a kit, the Thor TL http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=35_40_401_276
Thought this would get noticed more here, than in DIY thread.
TLS Guy gave it his seal of approval.(Though at the time, he was drinking, and was dressed as a matador.) :D

So I got to wondering if anyone has built this kit? (with, or without cabinets)
I'll probably build my own cabinets. Would be interested what you thought of their boxes, anyway?

Thanks,
Rick
Yes I have built two sets. One from scratch and the other using the box from Madisound. I can recommend this set up without reservation. My boxes were better. With the box assembled it is hard to get a uniform stuffing density.

The Thor is one of the best speakers available. The boxes from scratch were for my father, and he just loves them.
 
T

timsbin

Audiophyte
Thor speaker kit

I built the thor cabinets about a year ago but couldint afford the drivers
I got the plans from solen electronique in Quebec Canada
The $1500.00 price tag for the Seas drivers was a little steep for me so I set out to find other suitable drive units for these cabinets
Apparently Parts exspress have some drivers that are suited to that cabinet
and wont set you back an arm and a leg
I havint tried them yet as I live in Canada solen has these drive units on back order
The Dayton Reference series RS1805-8 $48.00 and the DC28FS-8 $27.00 Im told will work well
Im not sure about the crossover network though I havint inquired about that yet
So for around $300.00 Canadian it would be worth a try
Solen will design a crossover for you at your request but you have to build it yourself
Hope this helps
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I built the thor cabinets about a year ago but couldint afford the drivers
I got the plans from solen electronique in Quebec Canada
The $1500.00 price tag for the Seas drivers was a little steep for me so I set out to find other suitable drive units for these cabinets
Apparently Parts exspress have some drivers that are suited to that cabinet
and wont set you back an arm and a leg
I havint tried them yet as I live in Canada solen has these drive units on back order
The Dayton Reference series RS1805-8 $48.00 and the DC28FS-8 $27.00 Im told will work well
Im not sure about the crossover network though I havint inquired about that yet
So for around $300.00 Canadian it would be worth a try
Solen will design a crossover for you at your request but you have to build it yourself
Hope this helps
The Thiel/Small parameters of those woofers are not in the same ball park. Those drivers are not close to equivalent, and will not work in the Thor line. The Vas alone is nearly three times that of the SEAS units. The Thor crossovers would not work even close.

I'm sorry, but that project is a waste of money. My best advice is to save your money and get the right drivers. You will then have one of the very best speaker pairs around, and about the best value for money in a speaker, I know of.

If you have put the money and effort into building those cabinets, then complete the project. If you try and substitute drivers you will end up with a poor speaker. Those drivers are used in speakers costing $60,000 per pair!
 
ParadigmDawg

ParadigmDawg

Audioholic Overlord
From what I can tell, TLS is always drinking and dressed as a matador...
 
T

timsbin

Audiophyte
Dayton drivers

I guess I will have to start saving my money then
Im just a novice at this and its nice to have your input
Whats your thoughts on the weems pipes ?
I have built five pairs of these every one who hears them are quite surprised at the sound
Ive no way to measure the frequency response and find that with some types of music they tend to ring
I was going to try the dayton drivers I had mentioned for use in the thor and if that hadint of worked use them in the weems pipe instead any input would be appreciated
 
jliedeka

jliedeka

Audioholic General
Have you looked at some of the published designs at HTGuide? I will be building Natalie Ps for my front 3 and Modula MTs for my surrounds. I think there are some really smart guys there like Jon Marsh and Evil Twin. Both of these designs use the 7" Dayton RS180S-8 midwoofer and Dayton RS28A tweeter. Those are both really decent drivers for the money, especially with the right crossover.

Also, with those designs, you can buy pre-made cabinets or build your own. All you have to do is buy the stuff and wire up the crossovers and route a few holes. I'm taking the opportunity the expand my woodworking skill by building all the boxes.

Jim
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
I guess I will have to start saving my money then
Im just a novice at this and its nice to have your input
Whats your thoughts on the weems pipes ?
I have built five pairs of these every one who hears them are quite surprised at the sound
Ive no way to measure the frequency response and find that with some types of music they tend to ring
I was going to try the dayton drivers I had mentioned for use in the thor and if that hadint of worked use them in the weems pipe instead any input would be appreciated
I have seen and read Weems' articles on his pipes. They are a version of the Voight quarter wave pipe. I built some of those pipe type speakers, as a kid. Gilbert Briggs had one in the Wharfedale line in the fifties. He has a section in them in his book loudspeakers. Drain pipe speakers we used to call them.

However the reverse tapered, aperiodically damped TL, like the Thor is significantly different. The geometry and density of stuffing are such that the line output is not suppressed, but there is one peak of impedance, like a sealed enclosure, and unlike ported enclosures, un damped pipes and quarter wave pipes. The roll off also becomes second order, like a sealed enclosure, and unlike the others mentioned which are fourth order. You end up with a Qtc of just a hair over 0.5. The bass is augmented smoothly in a uniform fashion over about 1.5 octaves by 3 to four db. So there is no kick in like you have with reflex ports. The output from ported enclosures is always resonant. In a properly designed and damped aperiodic TL the bass output from the port is entirely non resonant.

So you get all the advantages of a low Qtc sealed alignment, but the output from the rear of the cone is not absorbed and enhances output in a non resonant fashion. The F3 is generally significantly lower than for a sealed alignment.

The disadvantage, is a larger cabinet volume than for either ported or sealed for the same driver and drivers, and more complex design. However apart from that everything is a big plus.

Martin King has promoted what he calls a mass loaded TL in recent years. He has published a modeling program. I personally do not regard those as TLs. I think they are specialized ported enclosures. I think he has added to the confusion of an already confused area, for people who have not studied this form of loading in depth.

The Thor design, and the lines I design and build are in the tradition of the work carried out by the Radford amplifier company at Oxford during the sixties, by Bailey, Radford, Fried and Wright. Only John Wright ended up making a commercial success of this work. He was founder and MD of TDL. His speakers are still highly sought after. He died in the early nineties, but TDL survived until about two years ago. The Thor is the only commercial realization of this approach currently available that I'm aware of. It is a kit and self build project designed by Joe d'Appolito for SEAS . However I believe there is an Italian firm that have a license to build a beautifully crafted version. I have seen pictures, and it looks wonderful.

Really any members with a modicum of skill wanting towers in the $1800 and up range should have the Thor at the top of their list.

TLs really come into their own if you design and build them to reach well into the last octave. Very, very few have ever heard such designs. However they are truly remarkable, and have a reach clarity and articulation far exceeding anything else. It would be nice to see a commercial realization. However, I have done a production cost analysis of mine, and you would be in the realm of the exotics at around $100,000 per pair retail.
 
T

timsbin

Audiophyte
Thanks for all the info on everything Nice to know that there are some people out there who actually know what there talking about and give back such a discriptive and factual answer By the way TLS nice set up you have and I can tell by the photos why you are so passionate about those seas drivers. I myself am quite pasionate about good sound but you know how it is you have to start somwhere I think I found the right place to start
I must say that I came across this site by accident but Im glad I did
I started off by refoaming drivers for my friends because it just botherd me that why should should someone throw out perfectly good drivers when only the foam is rotten Good results at that I have built my own amplifiers in the past and even though they were simple modules from ILP England had satisfying results knowing I could put somthing together which at that time was far better than my friends had Didint look like much though I must admit being built into a milk crate HY200s gave it away to a good friend with some traynor monitors.
As for the thore transmission line I will take TLS,s advise and save for the real drivers
I knew they were really good drivers but I had my reservations not just cost but no feedback from anyone who actually had or built a a pair
By theway TLS just where are you from in Canada and what keeps you down in the States. ahh just foolin with ya I love the US have family down there just hoping we all get through this econimic thing
Thanks again Aye
 
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R-Carpenter

R-Carpenter

Audioholic
Good man! Seas Excel drivers are one of the best out there if not the best. Hard to work with for a beginner but you are not designing from scratch.
Dayton reference are also very good for the money. I build 3 HT setups with them.
Be careful because this hobby is very addictive!
TLS, very nice system, I'd love to hear it. You must have either very tolerant wife or a big house.
Nothing like Transmission Line base.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
Thanks for all the info on everything Nice to know that there are some people out there who actually know what there talking about and give back such a discriptive and factual answer By the way TLS nice set up you have and I can tell by the photos why you are so passionate about those seas drivers. I myself am quite pasionate about good sound but you know how it is you have to start somwhere I think I found the right place to start
I must say that I came across this site by accident but Im glad I did
I started off by refoaming drivers for my friends because it just botherd me that why should should someone throw out perfectly good drivers when only the foam is rotten Good results at that I have built my own amplifiers in the past and even though they were simple modules from ILP England had satisfying results knowing I could put somthing together which at that time was far better than my friends had Didint look like much though I must admit being built into a milk crate HY200s gave it away to a good friend with some traynor monitors.
As for the thore transmission line I will take TLS,s advise and save for the real drivers
I knew they were really good drivers but I had my reservations not just cost but no feedback from anyone who actually had or built a a pair
By theway TLS just where are you from in Canada and what keeps you down in the States. ahh just foolin with ya I love the US have family down there just hoping we all get through this econimic thing
Thanks again Aye
Actually, I'm form Rochester Kent, UK. I was in Western Manitoba from 1970 to 1976, before wandering down to Grand Forks ND in 1976. We are now in Benedict and Eagan MN.

Fortunately my wife loves the speakers, and the rest of the family also, even my architect and interior designer daughter. She is married to an architect. Actually the speakers seem to fit the room well with the architectural features I put in. My daughter designed the rest of the house, but would not touch that space!

This economic thing as you put it, is certainly very serious. Every pronouncement by every so called expert and official seems wide of the mark by a mile.

Anyhow your situation prompted me to look at the prospect of using those Thor lines with less expensive drivers. I have doodled for hours today on this, and I have a solution that looks a very viable alternative indeed, using some SEAS prestige drivers. The driver costs for the pair are $380. I have not looked up the cost of parts for the seven element crossover, but I think $100 for the pair would be very close. So around a half grand for the pair for drivers and electrical parts. How does that sound?

This looks so promising that I think I will design a line specific for that driver, and build a set for our Eagan town home. It is not that often you get a driver combination where a crossover can be worked out with so few problems. Use air core inductors and polypropylene caps, like Solen caps if you take the plunge.
 
G

gus6464

Audioholic Samurai
This question isn't related to the Thor kit directly but since there are some DIY builders posting in this thread I figured it would be as good of a place as any to ask.

Can you find 15mm MDF or Ply in the states? I have a pair of Fostex FE206E coming for my first attempt at DIY and I will be building the following speaker.

AG-250BS (scroll down to middle of page)
http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/~hanbei/eng-angular.html

Now the designer used 15mm ply so I went to a Lowe's and I couldn't find any ply that thick.
 
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WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
If anyone builds the Thor, I highly recommend radically increasing the energy dampening properties of the walls. Despite the B.S. marketing line in the ad copy, it's certainly not "essentially non-resonant enclosures". It's a standard resonant cabinet when built via the plans. I recommend at minimum, adding a second layer to the walls and gluing in a visco-elastic layer between them. A material like Dynamat will work well for this application. Lowe's carries a suitable substitute called Peel N' Seal that is lower in cost as compared to the Dynamat. Use 2-3 layers of Peel N' Seal. Apply the Peel N' Seal/Dynamat by heating the adhestive on the first layer to effect maximum adhesion. Clean the foil side of the last layer of Dynamat/Peel N' Seal using a solvent such as denatured alcohol or even brake cleaner and rough up the foil with 100 grit paper. An adhesive such as polyurethane construction adhesive works well to attach the foil side to the secondary wood based material wall. Sold in caulk tubes commonly by a brand called PLH(PHL?). Spread with a vinyl flooring trowel for even coverage.

I would also recommend adding substantial support internally. It's just not nearly sufficient if done via the plans, and you will be to a large extent, wasting the quality drivers and crossovers if you use the stock cabinet plans.

-Chris
 
R-Carpenter

R-Carpenter

Audioholic
You can find 15mm plywood or MDF. Call your local woodworking shop and as who they buy plywood from. What state are you in?

Also. Drivers-ebay! Usually staff goes for half the price. Last week someone was selling a set of Odin MK3 drivers and crossovers for $700. Wait a bit and you will find a set for Thor.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
If anyone builds the Thor, I highly recommend radically increasing the energy dampening properties of the walls. Despite the B.S. marketing line in the ad copy, it's certainly not "essentially non-resonant enclosures". It's a standard resonant cabinet when built via the plans. I recommend at minimum, adding a second layer to the walls and gluing in a visco-elastic layer between them. A material like Dynamat will work well for this application. Lowe's carries a suitable substitute called Peel N' Seal that is lower in cost as compared to the Dynamat. Use 2-3 layers of Peel N' Seal. Apply the Peel N' Seal/Dynamat by heating the adhestive on the first layer to effect maximum adhesion. Clean the foil side of the last layer of Dynamat/Peel N' Seal using a solvent such as denatured alcohol or even brake cleaner and rough up the foil with 100 grit paper. An adhesive such as polyurethane construction adhesive works well to attach the foil side to the secondary wood based material wall. Sold in caulk tubes commonly by a brand called PLH(PHL?). Spread with a vinyl flooring trowel for even coverage.

I would also recommend adding substantial support internally. It's just not nearly sufficient if done via the plans, and you will be to a large extent, wasting the quality drivers and crossovers if you use the stock cabinet plans.

-Chris
Do not cross brace internally, if you do, the pipe will not work. You can make the walls thicker if you want by using 1" mdf. If you put in internal braces, I can assure you, you will ruin the speaker. I have built enough pipes to know.

Any how, TLs are not like reflex or sealed enclosures. High pressure is only present at the closed and and falls rapidly away from that point, and is zero at the open end.

The Thors are not boomy and do not sound tubby or resonant in any shape or form.

The fact of them being non resonant refers to the tuning of the pipe with correct aperiodic damping, as stated earlier in the thread. Once the pipe is damped to the point there is one impedance peak and no more, then the Qtc will be a about 0.52, and you will have non resonant reinforcement of the driver by the port over 1.5 octaves. You can see all the effects of damping in Joe d'Appolitos articles on the Thor, where he shows the effect of under, just right and too much damping. That is not BS. I have built a lot of TLs and I don't think you have.

It is a great speaker and if you follow his plans in the article you will be fine.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Audioholic Jedi
This question isn't related to the Thor kit directly but since there are some DIY builders posting in this thread I figured it would be as good of a place as any to ask.

Can you find 15mm MDF or Ply in the states? I have a pair of Fostex FE206E coming for my first attempt at DIY and I will be building the following speaker.

AG-250BS (scroll down to middle of page)
http://www3.ocn.ne.jp/~hanbei/eng-angular.html

Now the designer used 15mm ply so I went to a Lowe's and I couldn't find any ply that thick.
Use plywood for horns. For some reason they do not sound as good built with mdf.

For horns 1/2 inch ply is fine, which is close to 15mm. I have built good working horns in years past with 1/2 inch ply.
 
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