Part 2 - Cut Polising!
Hello again,
Today after work I decided to cut polish my moms car as the paint was swirled and lost it's mirror finish. The car is silver, which is the best color for hiding swirls, but eventually the reflection in the paint will become hazy and diffused.
Cut polishing is a more rigorous procedure, and when done right, has the possibility to make a car really shine. If however, you are not sure of what do you, you'd best research it, so you don't damage the paint. It also requires specialized tools and solutions in order to work properly, and there is a science behind which materials to use.
List of materials required for proper Cut Polishing.
- Orbital buffer (With selectable speeds).
- Buffer plate (attaches to buffer, this is what the interchangeable pads stick to).
- Buffing pads (Ranging from Heavy Cut, Medium Cut, Light Cut, Polish/finishing).
- Polishing Compounds (Ranging from Heavy cut, Medium Cut, Light Cut, Polish).
- Sealant/Wax.
Before you can polish your car, you first need to clean it thoroughly. All the steps above need to be completed (from first post) in order for the paint to be ready. The car must be thoroughly dried too, because the compounds and pads won't work if water gets on them. Below is my personal procedure for polishing.
1.) With a clean dry car, fist asses the condition of the paint. You do not need to use a heavy cut every time you buff your car. If you follow the washing procedures I've listed above, you will have few swirls in the paint. This is also not something to do on a regular basis to the same car. Only when the paint has lost it's luster and the wax has faded should you be polishing again. In the case of the car I polished today, it needed to be cut fairly heavy. Unfortunately, I don't have my own supplies yet, and had to rely on my dealerships stuff, which isn't up to snuff IMO. The 1500 grit heavy cut paste was also locked away, so I had to use a medium cut with a heavy disk. The results were less then optimal, but still showed an significant improvement.
2.) After you've assessed the condition of the paint and selected the correct compound, begin applying it to the paint using an applicator (same as waxing applicators). Using a circular motion, work it into the paint, but not hard enough that you leave nothing behind. You want a film to built up, and dry to a white-ish haze (you products may have different application methods, be sure to read your instructions). Once the entire car is covered, and the filmed has dried/is ready for buffing, grab your buffer and begin! Be careful not to press too hard, but also be firm, you don't want the buffer jumping around. Never hold the buffer in 1 spot for too long, especially when you're buffing plastic headlights and tail lights (yes, you can buff these). The plastic will heat up and may melt, so for these parts turn down the RPM on the buffer to 1000 or so and keep it moving around. This should prevent any plastic parts from melting.
3.) Once you've buffed off all the compound, repeat the process with a polishing compound, and it's accompanying pad. Apply it in a similar fashion (or as directed) and buff it off the same way. The finishing polish is the first stage of a barrier for the paint, and helps smooth out any rough parts from the gritty compound (They car will still feel smooth, but this helps with shimmer).
4.) Now that the finishing polish is removed, the car is ready for it's sealant/wax. Most waxes are simple to apply, done in the same fashion as polishing compounds, however, you do not need to remove them with a buffer. Simply use towels once it has cured. Be sure again to read the bottle for instructions on how to apply the wax and it's removal. Pay close attention to environments that the wax should not be used in (most can't be applied in direct sunlight).
5.) Now that the wax is gone, that car is fully protected. You might want to go over everything to make sure nothing is missed, and also clean the panel and door cracks, as they will build up with the compounds when you're applying them.
I don't have too many in-depth pictures like the last ones, I was in a rush to make it home before House started. I have a before, during, and after shot, as well as a water beading shot.
Before, notice the lack luster appearance of the paint, and bland reflection.
After Cutting. Notice the sharper reflection and neutral tone to the silver.
Up close after Cutting.
After waxing. Not much of a visual difference, but it's there to protect.
Beading.
I want to make this clear to everyone wanting to cut polish. This is but more strenuous on your body then a normal washing. If you vehicle has a high roof, or one that requires a lot of reaching, be prepared to have a sore back for a few days. If you don't feel you can't handle the abuse on your fore arms (which really take a pounding holding the buffer) and the strain on your back floating over large panels, you should have a shop do this for you. It really is hard work. Stay tuned, as I will be going over engine bay detailing and interior cleaning in the coming days.
SheepStar
