Which HSU sub?

[davetroy]

HSU sub is even best for me). The listening area is 14x16, open on one side, lots of windows, eight-foot ceilings. So, the TV is on the back wall. Facing the TV, to the left is a wall that's almost entirely windows (sliding glass door and a big window). The couch is against the back wall (more windows; all the windows are covered, by the way). Facing the TV, the right side is open to a 14x14 room and a 4'-wide walkway that are separated by a wall. I don't watch a lot of action movies. Purposes are mostly for watching and listening to music DVDs (classical) and movie DVDs. I already have another two-channel room where I listen to CDs, so I'm never going to just sit and listen to CDs on this system. Tightness and musicality of the bass is more important to me than the ability to blast out the windows (of which there are many in this room). But I wouldn't mind being able to turn up the volume once in a while.

Thanks for your help. I must say that, as always, the people on Audioholics have been very helpful.

 

[u2generator]

Send HSU an email describing your lay out. I have a VTF 3.2 in a room of 3,200 cuft that is open to three other rooms. I have no regrets.


TW

 

[j_garcia]

For what you are describing, I'd go with either the VTF-2 Mk3 or VTF-3 (Mk2 or Mk3). Did you have a price in mind?

 

[davetroy]

Well, I'd certainly like to keep it under $500. I did email HSU Research at your suggestion, and he suggested the VTF2, MK3. I wonder what the difference is between the MK3 and the discontinued MK2; there are some of those showing up on Audiogon.

 

[j_garcia]

The Mk2 was a 10" sub while the Mk3 is a 12", which is the same reason why I recommended the Mk3; it seems like it will fit your needs. It is similar to the VTF-3 Mk2's design; it moved up the food chain a bit, as did the VTF-3 Mk3.

 

[davetroy]

Well, thanks again for your help. Now, one final question (although you know it's not going to be final; it never is!): Am I foolish to put a $500 subwoofer with front and centers that are about $340 (the AV123 x-series bookshelves)? Am I putting the money in the wrong place (bookshelves are the only viable option for me, it seems)? Or should the most money in an HT system go to the sub?

 

[Davemcc]

Well, thanks again for your help. Now, one final question (although you know it's not going to be final; it never is!): Am I foolish to put a $500 subwoofer with front and centers that are about $340 (the AV123 x-series bookshelves)? Am I putting the money in the wrong place (bookshelves are the only viable option for me, it seems)? Or should the most money in an HT system go to the sub?

Set aside the question of the relative value of components and choose the sub that will meet your requirements now and in whatever future plans you might have now (note: these may change). A good sub can last through many speaker and equipment changes. If you don't always plan to have the x-series, a better sub will provide a future benefit with the new speakers. Who knows, you may even find out that you like action movies with a good sub.

On a side note, and not to dispute the good advice of others, if tightness and musicality are you primary considerations at the expense of SPL, you might want to consider a 10" sub, or perhaps 2-10" subs for the tightness and quick response. For example, I have a little 100 watt 8" sub that actually keeps up with fast, hard driving music with quick transitions better than either of my bigger, more powerful and expensive subs, albeit without very high volume or ground shaking ability whatsoever. Smaller drivers just might fit the criteria that you laid out in your original post better than the larger ones. Only you can decide, but that's just something to consider.

 

[hankdog]

Just my two cents, but it sounds like the eight inch driver would work better for music as it has less mass, and would be quicker for the transits in music.Again just my opinion

 

[davetroy]

Are the SVS subs better than the HSU subs in the $500 range?

I suspect that this topic has been debated over and over. I think the least expensive SVS sub is in the PCI series (the cylinder subs).

 

[j_garcia]

8" and 10" can be better for music IMO, however when push comes to shove and you want the output, a single 8 isn't going to deliver. There are some very good 10" subs out there that can, including those from HSU. SVS would definitely be another to consider with their PB-10, also under $500 (possibly even shipped, depending on where you live). The PB-10 is the least expensive, with the 25-31PCi being a close second by about $50 - everything but the PB-10 are 12" subs from SVS though. They are fine with music as well. Neither is "better" in my book, they both make excellent subs. I have owned subs from both and wasn't disappointed with either of them.

What I might consider if music is a priority, is a sealed sub, possibly something like the SVS SB-12Plus (which is unfortunately $699, not $500), or one of the offerings from AV123 when they start shipping the new subs.

 

[Nick250]

Well, thanks again for your help. Now, one final question (although you know it's not going to be final; it never is!): Am I foolish to put a $500 sub woofer with front and centers that are about $340 (the AV123 x-series bookshelves)? Am I putting the money in the wrong place (bookshelves are the only viable option for me, it seems)? Or should the most money in an HT system go to the sub?

As I see it, I think it's the other way around. The two main speakers are far, far more important than any other part of your system. it's not even close IMO. If it were me I would put my entire speaker budget, all $840 of it on the two best main speakers I could find. The speakers account for about 95% of the sound quality in your room anyway (along with room acoustics) so that is where the most money should go. My mantra is you can cheap out on anything in your system except your main speakers. When you have saved up some enough extra dough, get a sub. There are many good ones in the three to five hundred dollar range. After that some will disagree, but I would then get surrounds and the center last. Many on this forum would get a good center earlier in the process than me, so do what works best for you.

Plan b: Get an x sub for $200 and spend the rest of your budget on the two main speakers

If I understand your requirements correctly, Plan b seems to be the way to go.

One last thing, audition as many speakers as you can. There is no getting around it. It will be an eye opener.

Good Luck!

Nick

 

[davetroy]

Well, Nick, let's say I did that: How important, then, is it to match the center front to the left and right front?

 

[Nick250]

Matching Center

Well, Nick, let's say I did that: How important, then, is it to match the center front to the left and right front?

It is very important. Make sure the manufacturer has a center that matches your mains. You should probably audition the main speakers with and without the matching center to make sure you are happy with them as a package even though you are not buying the center right away. Take a look at my Sig and you will notice that my three front speakers are exactly the same. They produce a wonderful, seamless sound stage, even more so when dialed in other than by my ears.

My surrounds are Boston Acoustic VR940 because they were on sale at Tweeter for half price and I liked the sound. I have had them for a couple of years and I have no complaints or urges to upgrade them to Paradigm surrounds. My main listening is concert DVDs FWIW. When upgradities hits, it never gets focused on the VR940s. I guess that means they are doing a very good job.


Nick

 

[j_garcia]

I agree with Nick250; matching the front 3 is most important. Notice that I use 5 of the same speaker in my setup also...

 

[KC23]

Well, thanks again for your help. Now, one final question (although you know it's not going to be final; it never is!): Am I foolish to put a $500 subwoofer with front and centers that are about $340 (the AV123 x-series bookshelves)? Am I putting the money in the wrong place (bookshelves are the only viable option for me, it seems)? Or should the most money in an HT system go to the sub?

Big money is suppost to go for mains, but IMHO sub is just as important and perhaps more so with bookshelf type speakers which are typically lacking in the lows.

I have an HSU VTF 2.3 and it is very musical. You get a little flexability with the 2.3 in that you can keep the baffle plug in for music, but if you should want to go for the low lows in movies you pop the plug and let her rip.

Awesome value, but it is a very big sub.

 

[u2generator]

I have a HSU 3.2 in a 3200 cu ft room with several openings to other rooms and couldn't be happier. The sub sits directly across from my listening position on the opposite wall, about four feet from the corner. When I turn my HT system to near reference levels it shakes the whole damned house.

TW

 

[davetroy]

Is the HSU 3.3 too much sub for my room?

Or is there no such thing? I ask because the price is down to $629 plus shipping, and even though that's higher than I wanted to go, it seems like an awfully good deal, especially when compared to comparable SVS subs.

Dave

 

[KC23]

Or is there no such thing? I ask because the price is down to $629 plus shipping, and even though that's higher than I wanted to go, it seems like an awfully good deal, especially when compared to comparable SVS subs.

Dave

Go for it and never look back. That is a fantastic deal.

 

[Tomorrow]

Davetroy,

I have a mighty fine Hsu STF-3 that will do everything you want at a price well under your budget. PM me if you're interested. Here's the link....http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32171