JL F113V1s -----> JTR Capitvator 4000 ULF x2 ---- > Funk Audio Ultra LFE x 2 ----- > Seaton Sounds HP + HP Slave/XP21A

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Beatmatcher247

Full Audioholic
My (2) F113s have served me well thru a lot of abuse since 2012 and seem to have been dying a slow death. After watching Top Gun Maverick the other night, one of them doesn't want to come out of its corner and fight again. None of the lights on it will come on anymore. Probably just a fuse or something..

I have received pricing back on the upgrade to F113 Version 2... all things considered I wish I would have took the advice I had gotten here and went with one of these (3) options I was given some of these great suggestions in these forums way back when. Hard to justify anything other than all new subs for that kind of money.

Here i am again, leaning towards
JTR Captivator 4000 ULF x 2 at this time.

Some of these have changed a little bit since I last looked and the XP21A is all new to me.

It would be kewl to get a nice cherry finish to match my PSB Synchrony speakers, but at the end of the day, they are going to be pretty out of sight and out of mind. Output/headroom is more important to me than aesthetics. Help me spend my money.

Appreciate you guys.

Orbitshifters sound like too much for my house after reading this article? Lol

 
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everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
What are your goals for the subwoofers in your system and how to do the augment your mains?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
The amp could be more than a fuse on the failed JL, and likely not hard to replace the amp if you want to go that route.

That would be quite a step up to Captivator 4000s in performance.

What about Funk/Harbottle and Seaton in your title, tho?
 
B

Beatmatcher247

Full Audioholic
What are your goals for the subwoofers in your system and how to do the augment your mains?
Pretty typical home theatre duty use, crossover from the mains at 80 hz, and just to have lower reaching extension and more output than my F113's version 1's had. I do the same with music and maybe turn it down a few dB's because I like my movies a little hotter in the LFE than I do my music.
 
ryanosaur

ryanosaur

Audioholic Overlord
I would avoid Seaton these days. Been hearing a lot of rumbling that he's not meeting deliveries or returning calls/emails. Would like to be wrong as he seemed very well respected several years ago.

I like the Harbottle/Funk angle, myself. I think what those two guys are doing is disruptive to the industry in a good way. Apparently Nathan has even commented that Cody's approach to modeling Subs in their LDLC System is too powerful a tool, too good. ;)
That, and I have yet to see or hear a person with a less--than-stellar comment.
Of course, if you want a beautiful Cheery Cabinet, Funk would be the way to go... but I think there is a lot of value in Harbottle Subs.

In the end, I think JTR is still very good, but I don't think they will compare as well as we want them too. Pass on the orbit shifters. ;) Designed for pro support, they will not have the extension you want for HT. They'll be loud as fcuk up above 40Hz, though.
 
S

shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
Funk or JTR are solid choices. You might want to look at some of the Monoprice Monolith subs too.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Pretty typical home theatre duty use, crossover from the mains at 80 hz, and just to have lower reaching extension and more output than my F113's version 1's had. I do the same with music and maybe turn it down a few dB's because I like my movies a little hotter in the LFE than I do my music.
The JL has very good specs so upping those will require the brands you're considering. Is placement going to be an issue moving up to largers sub boxes?

Multiple F18s from Seaton (not sure how his production is running) would be a good value for the output in home theater or two RS1 from JTR.

Once you get to this level output and extension, you do have a few nice choices. If low distortion and a higher crossover was a requirement it gets thinner.
 
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Beatmatcher247

Full Audioholic
I have a wild idea. There is a sharp local electronics repair tech, I wonder how changing the plate amp out and nothing else would go on something like that. Should bring it over there and pose the question to him. Maybe can find a similar V2 plate amp and try hand at upgrading them locally here. If it doesn't work out, it was a good ride.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
I have a wild idea. There is a sharp local electronics repair tech, I wonder how changing the plate amp out and nothing else would go on something like that. Should bring it over there and pose the question to him. Maybe can find a similar V2 plate amp and try hand at upgrading them locally here. If it doesn't work out, it was a good ride.
Swapping the plate amp is not a really a technical issue, the issue is with using anything but the OEM amp, you'd have recreate the filters which allows the sub to perform the way that it is expected to, which is a little time consuming and requires measurements but nothing that is too difficult. JL customer service has always been top notch in my experience and could assist with this.

If it were me I'd repair it and use it as the driver is nice and it would be a waste not to put to some use.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
I have a wild idea. There is a sharp local electronics repair tech, I wonder how changing the plate amp out and nothing else would go on something like that. Should bring it over there and pose the question to him. Maybe can find a similar V2 plate amp and try hand at upgrading them locally here. If it doesn't work out, it was a good ride.
He might be able to repair it. I'd not think there's a drop in replacement at a guess, tho (aside from JL). The JL replacement could come at a premium price but would be easiest and something you could do yourself fairly easily.
 
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D

Danzilla31

Audioholic Spartan
Pretty typical home theatre duty use, crossover from the mains at 80 hz, and just to have lower reaching extension and more output than my F113's version 1's had. I do the same with music and maybe turn it down a few dB's because I like my movies a little hotter in the LFE than I do my music.
If you decide to go new and as you mentioned you want lower reaching extension and output then what you had I cannot imagine anything topping the JTR captivator 4000 ulfs.
 
D

Danzilla31

Audioholic Spartan
My (2) F113s have served me well thru a lot of abuse since 2012 and seem to have been dying a slow death. After watching Top Gun Maverick the other night, one of them doesn't want to come out of its corner and fight again. None of the lights on it will come on anymore. Probably just a fuse or something..

I have received pricing back on the upgrade to F113 Version 2... all things considered I wish I would have took the advice I had gotten here and went with one of these (3) options I was given some of these great suggestions in these forums way back when. Hard to justify anything other than all new subs for that kind of money.

Here i am again, leaning towards
JTR Captivator 4000 ULF x 2 at this time.

Some of these have changed a little bit since I last looked and the XP21A is all new to me.

It would be kewl to get a nice cherry finish to match my PSB Synchrony speakers, but at the end of the day, they are going to be pretty out of sight and out of mind. Output/headroom is more important to me than aesthetics. Help me spend my money.

Appreciate you guys.

Orbitshifters sound like too much for my house after reading this article? Lol

The orbitshifters are more made for midbass at EXTREME levels of output they don't have the low end extension your looking for.

I forgot to ask how big is the room these are going in?
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Any time you buy a sub with built-in amp, there’s always the risk of the amp failure.

Just saying - might also consider passive subs from RBH (SV-1212NR) or Funk (I used to own the Funk 18.0 passive).

RBH and Funk are the only 2 companies I know of who offer externally powered subs. I think other companies should offer consumers the same option. Just saying. :D
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
The orbitshifters are more made for midbass at EXTREME levels of output they don't have the low end extension your looking for.

I forgot to ask how big is the room these are going in?
I’d like to add that this might be a good time to dump the JL’s and look at some big ported subs. Fv18’s, fv25’s, 21” models from PSA.
I’m sure you can add a little bit here. Lol.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Any time you buy a sub with built-in amp, there’s always the risk of the amp failure.

Just saying - might also consider passive subs from RBH (SV-1212NR) or Funk (I used to own the Funk 18.0 passive).

RBH and Funk are the only 2 companies I know of who offer externally powered subs. I think other companies should offer consumers the same option. Just saying. :D
Seaton, JTR, and many others offer external amps FWIW.
 
everettT

everettT

Audioholic Spartan
Here's a good deal on two JTR RS1s with external amplification. Used but new in the boxes.
 

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