Troubleshooting Netflix with my reciever, no sound

Gil111000

Gil111000

Audioholic Intern
I have a Yamaha RX-V373 connected to a pair of Bose Interaudio 4000XL.
My cable box is connected via HDMI Arc to the reciever, and the smart TV is connected to the reciever via HDMI Arc.

So it's something like this, if I got this right:
Cable Box >>> Reciever >>><<< Smart TV

When watching cable/using the smart TVs apps (YouTube, Spotify etc), the sound comes from the system with no problem. Yet when switching to Netflix specifically, the reciever makes an audible 'tick', as if a switch is pressed, then the sound cuts, and the reciever says 'AV4'.

If I go into the smart TVs settings and change the audio source from HDMI (Arc) to Optical Cable (which isn't even connected, but still appears in the settings), then back to HDMI again, the sound returns, and the reciever says 'Dolby Digital +'.

So does that mean in order to utilize my system with Netflix, I have to use Dolby Digital/Dolby Digital +?
If so, how do I enable/choose it? Can I make this switch automatic when starting Netflix?

I didn't find anything in Netflix's own settings...
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Dolby Digital Plus is the codec all my Netflix apps on various devices use. None of your other video streaming services use DD+ or is this the only one that you use? Sounds like when the avr runs across this particular source/codec a relay isn't functioning correctly (the clicking sound). I suspect your tv Netflix app thinks you're setup for surround sound and tries to use the DD+ soundtrack automatically while your avr is having trouble downmixing that codec but I'm guessing. Do you have a audio setting to change tv's audio to 2.0 stereo output (pcm rather than bitstream)? What tv is it?
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Spartan
Hello and welcome. To avoid confusion, ARC ports refer to those labeled as such and stand for Audio Return Channel. This is for sending audio from the TV to the receiver using the same HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV. The cable box would be connected to the AVR through HDMI input port 1,2,3 or 4. It could also be connected directly to the TV using an HDMI port other than the ARC port.
For ARC to work, HDMI Control must be on in both the receiver and the TV. It sounds like that is the case if you are already getting sound. It would help further to know about the TV model. You may also have an issue with Dolby Atmos metadata from Netflix trying to get back to the receiver and it won’t accept it but I don’t think it would result in what you have described. Try switching the TV audio output to Dolby Digital or PCM. A pre 2020 Samsung TV may have a DTS Neo 2.5 option as well.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Another thought is to run a soft reset on the avr (maybe even the tv), i.e. just unplug it for a bit. Can clear up odd stuff sometimes (or maybe a full reset later if nothing else pans out).
 
Gil111000

Gil111000

Audioholic Intern
Dolby Digital Plus is the codec all my Netflix apps on various devices use. None of your other video streaming services use DD+ or is this the only one that you use? Sounds like when the avr runs across this particular source/codec a relay isn't functioning correctly (the clicking sound). I suspect your tv Netflix app thinks you're setup for surround sound and tries to use the DD+ soundtrack automatically while your avr is having trouble downmixing that codec but I'm guessing. Do you have a audio setting to change tv's audio to 2.0 stereo output (pcm rather than bitstream)? What tv is it?
It's a Samsung UE43TU7100U.

I do have PCM in the settings, or 'automatic'. I don't see bitstream in the TV settings. PCM does work for Netflix, but it sounds like inferior sound quality, and will I have to change it every time I launch Netflix? Since I rather using a different, more high quality codec...
Regarding other streaming services using DD+, I'm not sure. When watching through the cable box, the DD+ caption does not appear on the reciever, so I guess not. Same goes for Spotify, YouTube etc. I don't know which codec they do use.

If the AVR is having trouble with this specific codec, is there anything I can do to fix it? Or is it purely a software issue (I'm not kin on unscrewing the box anyways..)

If I'll run an optical audio cable from the TV to the reciever, will that solve the problem? That means I'll have to switch the audio source in the settings from ARC to Optical every time I launch Netflix, right?
 
Last edited:
Gil111000

Gil111000

Audioholic Intern
Hello and welcome. To avoid confusion, ARC ports refer to those labeled as such and stand for Audio Return Channel. This is for sending audio from the TV to the receiver using the same HDMI cable from the receiver to the TV. The cable box would be connected to the AVR through HDMI input port 1,2,3 or 4. It could also be connected directly to the TV using an HDMI port other than the ARC port.
For ARC to work, HDMI Control must be on in both the receiver and the TV. It sounds like that is the case if you are already getting sound. It would help further to know about the TV model. You may also have an issue with Dolby Atmos metadata from Netflix trying to get back to the receiver and it won’t accept it but I don’t think it would result in what you have described. Try switching the TV audio output to Dolby Digital or PCM. A pre 2020 Samsung TV may have a DTS Neo 2.5 option as well.
My cable box is connected to the reciever's ARC. Do I need to connect it to a different HDMI port?

My TV is connected to the reciever's ARC.
If I connect the cable box directly to the TV, without connecting it to the reciever, how will the sound and image go through the reciever and ultimately through the speakers?
The TV model is Samsung UE43TU7100U.
In the TV settings there is no Dolby Digital. Just PCM and 'automatic', and PCM does seem to work but on a lower volume and presumably lower sound quality. And I supoose, non surround. (currently it's a 2.0). Am I stuck with PCM on Netflix?
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Your system is just 2.0, isn't it? Using the 2.0/pcm setting in the tv should be fine quality wise, at least until you add subs/speakers for a proper system so you can enjoy a multich codec like Dolby Digital Plus. You might try various sound modes the avr may offer to alter the resulting audio more to your liking for now. However, the route to better audio would be via better speakers and subwoofer(s). You can try the optical but you're still a 2.0 system in the end and it shouldn't matter which digital input you use (altho the level of the signal can be a little different, so could be construed as audio quality differences, people tend to pick the slightly louder one when there's a difference).
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Spartan
I don’t understand how you could connect the TV AND the cable box to the receiver’s ARC port. There is only one ARC port on the receiver. PCM does play at a bit lower volume. If you connected the cable box directly to the TV, you would select the HDMI input it is connected to with the TV remote control to select the cable box for viewing and the TV would send the audio to the receiver from the ARC connection.
 
Gil111000

Gil111000

Audioholic Intern
Your system is just 2.0, isn't it? Using the 2.0/pcm setting in the tv should be fine quality wise, at least until you add subs/speakers for a proper system so you can enjoy a multich codec like Dolby Digital Plus. You might try various sound modes the avr may offer to alter the resulting audio more to your liking for now. However, the route to better audio would be via better speakers and subwoofer(s). You can try the optical but you're still a 2.0 system in the end and it shouldn't matter which digital input you use (altho the level of the signal can be a little different, so could be construed as audio quality differences, people tend to pick the slightly louder one when there's a difference).
Currently yes it's 2.0. The speakers I bought are beasts and I probably won't add a sub anytime soon (Bose Interaudio 4000xl, big big bass). So I supoose until I turn it to a 5.0/5.1, Yes PCM will be sufficient. But does that mean I have to change it every time I use Netflix?
When choosing 'automatic' instead of PCM it should be automatic, right? Because currently it isn't...
 
Gil111000

Gil111000

Audioholic Intern
I don’t understand how you could connect the TV AND the cable box to the receiver’s ARC port. There is only one ARC port on the receiver. PCM does play at a bit lower volume. If you connected the cable box directly to the TV, you would select the HDMI input it is connected to with the TV remote control to select the cable box for viewing and the TV would send the audio to the receiver from the ARC connection.
Cable box is connected to the reciever's ARC.
TV is connected via HDMI, from the TV's ARC to the reciever's HDMI3 (non ARC).

You're saying I should do:
Cable box >>>>ARC>>>> TV,
TV >>>>ARC>>>> reciever?

So I shouldn't connect the cable box to the reciever directly, and the TV will transmit the cable box's sound and image to the reciever via TV>>>reciever connection?

I'll try when I get home and update. Sounds like it might solve some problems...
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Spartan
The TV should be connected from it’s ARC labeled HDMI input port to the receiver’s ARC labeled HDMI output port. The cable box can be connected to any of the other HDMI inputs on the receiver or the TV.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Currently yes it's 2.0. The speakers I bought are beasts and I probably won't add a sub anytime soon (Bose Interaudio 4000xl, big big bass). So I supoose until I turn it to a 5.0/5.1, Yes PCM will be sufficient. But does that mean I have to change it every time I use Netflix?
When choosing 'automatic' instead of PCM it should be automatic, right? Because currently it isn't...
Most of us would suggest other than Bose, and I seriously doubt those speakers have big big bass compared to having a properr sub(s), altho they have larger bass drivers than many if not most all Bose speakers. It depends what you're used to....those speakers wouldn't cut it for me without subs (and never a Bose "sub").

If you set the tv's output to pcm I don't know if the Netflix app will still try and output DD+ or if your tv would just pass out the core 2.0 track....one way to find out :) ARC is multich capable, and so is your avr except for using DD+, which you can't do in 2.0 and automatic might be what keeps trying to allow DD+. You may need to troubleshoot some more, but I'd think even your avr should be able to downmix DD+ to 2.0.

Youtube nor spotify at this time offer multich audio btw.
 
Gil111000

Gil111000

Audioholic Intern
Most of us would suggest other than Bose, and I seriously doubt those speakers have big big bass compared to having a properr sub(s), altho they have larger bass drivers than many if not most all Bose speakers. It depends what you're used to....those speakers wouldn't cut it for me without subs (and never a Bose "sub").

If you set the tv's output to pcm I don't know if the Netflix app will still try and output DD+ or if your tv would just pass out the core 2.0 track....one way to find out :) ARC is multich capable, and so is your avr except for using DD+, which you can't do in 2.0 and automatic might be what keeps trying to allow DD+. You may need to troubleshoot some more, but I'd think even your avr should be able to downmix DD+ to 2.0.

Youtube nor spotify at this time offer multich audio btw.
Yes lmao, I'm aware of the hatred towards bose. My route was Monitor Audio Bronze 2 but I decided to try a secondhand deal to save some money. For how much I paid on these Bose (which are kind of vintage btw. They are not your typical Bose speakers everyone hates), they deliver quite well. Might add a sub in the future anyhoo

Yes, it seems I have to set it to PCM when using Netflix, then return it to 'automatic' when using anything else, YouTube, Spotify cables etc, because PCM doesn't output any sound outside of Netflix.
I will however try the different connection scheme the other user suggested here, and I'll update if that helps me.
Minewhile, thanks!

btw I might move the Bose to rear speakers when I get enough courage to buy a better set of fronts (Like the monitor ones). Would a big speaker like the 4000XL fit as rear speaker? It's a rather small apartment living room, maybe it's an overkill... Is it generally better using smaller speakers as rears?

Those specific Bose speakers are suprising, and are darn good looking btw
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Well currently Bose offers nothing like those speakers (and a relatively few others they offered in the past). I did own Bose Acoustimass when they first came out, they didn't stay long (but a friend who did like them still uses them!). I've not experienced the ones you have, but generally I've found much better choices out there than Bose ever since I heard their 901s back in the early 70s. How do they compare to Monitor Audio Silver or Gold or Platinum models, tho? :) I'd definitely recommend a sub to go with them in any case. They could work as surrounds....I use tower speakers as surrounds in my main system but I wouldn't call it overkill.

I'm going blank on why the other apps don't output sound with the pcm setting, tho......maybe @Trebdp83 can....
 
T

Trebdp83

Audioholic Spartan
I'm surprised there was sound at all with the TV connected to the HDMI input #3 on the receiver but stranger things have happened. My Samsung TV does what it wants at times and dropped HDMI Control once again last night just for the hell of it. I have forgotten how many times I've unplugged the thing. I'm grateful it has a detachable cord. Once the OP connects the HDMI cable to the proper ARC inputs, things should go well. BUT, other issues will arise. If I was going to suggest a more stable connection based on the hardware, I would suggest an optical cable from the TV's optical audio output to the receiver's AV 4 (TV) optical input. It will sound just fine and be MUCH more reliable than ARC with HDMI Control.
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
My cable box is connected to the reciever's ARC. Do I need to connect it to a different HDMI port?

My TV is connected to the reciever's ARC.
If I connect the cable box directly to the TV, without connecting it to the reciever, how will the sound and image go through the reciever and ultimately through the speakers?
The TV model is Samsung UE43TU7100U.
In the TV settings there is no Dolby Digital. Just PCM and 'automatic', and PCM does seem to work but on a lower volume and presumably lower sound quality. And I supoose, non surround. (currently it's a 2.0). Am I stuck with PCM on Netflix?
Use any other hdmi input on the avr for the cable box. Use the hdmi out to the tv. I missed that you have the tv hooked up to input 3 instead of the hdmi out. I also am surprised you got some audio.
 
Gil111000

Gil111000

Audioholic Intern
Use any other hdmi input on the avr for the cable box. Use the hdmi out to the tv. I missed that you have the tv hooked up to input 3 instead of the hdmi out. I also am surprised you got some audio.
Will try when I get home (two weeks from now) and I'll try. I will update
thanks mate!
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
It definitely sounds like you have a connectivity issue. As mentioned above, your receiver only has one HDMI ARC connection. You talk about multiple HDMI ARC connections, and that's just not accurate.

Page 18 of the owner's manual pretty clearly shows a picture of hooking up your receiver using the HDMI OUTPUT to the TV...

The fact that you have video and audio from anything if you aren't using this as your connection seems very strange to me.

You should have ONE, and only one, HDMI cable between your receiver and your TV. It should be the HDMI (ARC) output of the Yamaha which then connects to your TVs HDMI (ARC) input. No other HDMI connections are needed between your TV and the receiver.

IF THIS DOESN'T WORK!!!!

Just get a fiber optic Toslink/digital audio cable. They are under 10 bucks online and will carry the exact same audio between the TV and your receiver.
This is shown on page 21 of your owner's manual.

I'm not sure how you've walked down this road which sounds like multiple connections to the wrong ports all over the place, but read the manual, it has pictures and everything of different connections you can make. Not one of them shows plugging the TV's HDMI port into any input of the receiver. Sources (cable box, Apple TV, game console, Roku, etc.) connect to the HDMI inputs (1-4) of the Yamaha. HDMI OUT goes between the Yamaha and your TV.
 
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
For reference, this is the back of your receiver:
 
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