jtr s1 or jtr ported 1400?

[leeb]

Finally gonna buy a better subwoofer. Can't really make my mind up yet. Any advice would be much appreciated. It will be used for HT and music play. Sealed says it gets below 10 on the frequency response. That thing should sound awesome compared to my f12. Lol

 

[shadyJ]

If you are in a small room, I would go for the S1. If you are in a larger room, I would go for the 1400. How large is your room? Is there any permanent openings to other spaces?

 

[leeb]

14x16 roughly. 1 permanent open doorway and one cutout in the wall from the kitchen. The cut out opening is probably like a 4x3. Two more rooms connect with my living room but they do have doors.

 

[shadyJ]

Hmm, I might just go for the Cap 1400 to be safe. If you want all your bases covered, get the Cap S2. The reason why I say an S1 would be better in a small room is because the acoustics will boost the deep bass and you can get a nice boost in infrasonic regions, more so than with the Cap 1400 because the 1400 shaves off its deep bass a lot more as a consequence of its ported design. The 1400 will give you more 16 to 30 Hz bass, but the S1 will give you more bass below 15 Hz. However, in order to be palpable, that deep bass has to be shored up by room gain from a small room. Either would sound great though.

 

[leeb]

So the s2 would more than likely give me the room gain I need? I really want that lower bass.

 

[shadyJ]

The S2 would give you more deep bass simply by virtue of having more deep bass output. Only your room can give you more room gain. The S2 has a huge amount of displacement. The Cap 1400 will have more output around its tuning point, 16 Hz to maybe 30 Hz (although probably not a tremendous amount more), but the S2 will have a lot lot more at everywhere else. It is a lot more expensive for good reason. If you only have room for one JTR sub, the Cap S2 is the one I would go for. The only problem is the weight. 220 lbs. You might need three guys to carry a beast like that. I also wouldn't put too much other appliances on its electrical circuit. I would give it its own dedicated circuit.

 

[leeb]

Shew that s2 is alot of money. I wanted to stay around the 2k range. What about possibly hooking up a inuke amplifier to a sub. Would it be hard to connect it to my denon avr-e400 reciever? Just trying to way out all my options. I pretty much only have space for one sub box.

 

[Auditor55]

Finally gonna buy a better subwoofer. Can't really make my mind up yet. Any advice would be much appreciated. It will be used for HT and music play. Sealed says it gets below 10 on the frequency response. That thing should sound awesome compared to my f12. Lol

Why do you want to purchase such a large subwoofer for small room like you have? Also, if I were you concerning myself with 10 HZ response, it's not audible and even if was, what source material you know that contains 10 hz information? It is not practical at all to consider 10 hz response when deciding on a sub purchase.

 

[shadyJ]

You just connect the subwoofer output to the iNuke inputs. You will want a splitter and adapters to either 1/4" or XLR tips. I would get one of these and one of these to connect the iNuke. You can build something pretty nice for 2k. I would be looking at a couple sealed SI HST18s and an iNuke 6000 DSP amp. Put the drivers in some optimally sized sealed enclosures and stack them, that will get you something like the Cap S2 for about $2k, although the S2 will be more refined.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

these HST18s would be fine in these boxes:
http://www.parts-express.com/denovo-audio-knock-down-mdf-40-cu-ft-subwoofer-cabinet-for-dayton-audio-18-reference-seri--300-7079

No need for custom cuts. just get good wood glue and lots of large clamps. In a small room, such DIY sub will provide tons and tons of bass.
I'd recommend swapping Behringer amp for Crown XLS for better general reliability for not much more $

 

[leeb]

Just started adding things up, looks like that would put me just under the 2k range. Would that set up still work for my surround sound? And thank you everyone for the help!

 

[leeb]

Auditor55, because sometimes I like to party. I dont wanna just hear it, I wanna feel it.

 

[lovinthehd]

Another vote for the DIY route if you don't mind your own finishing skills. I have three SI HT18s in a very large room, really like them. Have two more drivers waiting for a dual opposed box build to finish it up. The HST18s would be a significant improvement. There is also the HST's new little brother from SI that just got released http://stereointegrity.com/product/ds4-18-subwoofer/

Any of your other choices would be awesome too if you don't want to put something together. First world problems....

 

[leeb]

Would I want the 1 or 2 ohm hst speakers? Do you have a link to that crown amp?

 

[lsiberian]

I'd go for the s1 myself. The nice thing with sealed subs is they are smaller, lighter and don't need a high pass filter. I'm not sure you will really get 10hz usable content in room, but knowing it's possible means you will certainly get 20 hz clean and clear.

 

[Steve81]

what source material you know that contains 10 hz information?

You can peruse here:
http://data-bass.ipbhost.com/index.php?/forum/4-bass-content/

It is not practical at all to consider 10 hz response when deciding on a sub purchase.

It's certainly not the first thing most folks should think about when considering a subwoofer purchase. However, it's more or less the "final frontier" of subwoofing, and people do get curious about what single digit bass does for the experience. The subs that do it well tend to have everything else taken care of (subs from Funk, Deep Sea, Bosso, JTR, Seaton, et al.), and the only real question is how many do you want to buy to get the output you seek. A single S1 probably won't net you reference level bass down to 5Hz; OTOH, if that's what you're looking for, the S1 represents a better starting point than any number of Cap 1400's.

 

[lovinthehd]

Would I want the 1 or 2 ohm hst speakers? Do you have a link to that crown amp?

The one or two ohm dual voice coils give you wiring options as to run the subwoofer(s) at 2, 4 or even 8 ohm depending on wiring and amp available. I'd go with 4 ohm for the Crowns; I use the XLS 1500 myself but there is a newer gen 2 version now. Try this to help think about wiring options

 

[leeb]

What's the difference in those amplifiers? Seems like the inuke is more powerful and cheaper.

 

[everettT]

What's the difference in those amplifiers? Seems like the inuke is more powerful and cheaper.

Behringer has / had a history of ripping off other manufactures designs and as a result have had QC issues with some production. Ive owned a few of their products and have had no ill experiences. Crown and others tend to be at a slightly higher cost because of things like R&D.

 

[lovinthehd]

What's the difference in those amplifiers? Seems like the inuke is more powerful and cheaper.

The iNuke DSP series of amps is very popular with many diy sub builders, especially for a ported design (to set the hpf to protect the driver below tuning). Noisy fans traditionally (altho I saw some reports the latest versions may be a bit quieter) so you may want to mod them if they're too loud for your purposes. The XLS fans are hard to tell when they're on and lacks the dsp (it does have crossover dsp but not the more extensive filters/eq the iNuke DSP models do).