Help me to decide to this NAD T758 and NAD T777

[Relly Carreon]

Hi to all experts!

I am planning to buy a NAD T758 but I don't know if this reciever can drive my 6 ohms 5.1 speakers I prefer this reciever cause it's a lot cheaper compare to NAD T777 but I have to consider the T777 if in case T758 cannot handle my Speakers. Help me please! Thanks!

 

[billg71]

You gets what you pays for(unless you're buying cables).

 

[KenM10759]

What speakers are they, and what volume are you trying to achieve? Are all five speakers of the same maker and series?

I have a T758 driving my 5.1 system and it works fine right up to just below reference level. It will go into protection mode after a few minutes there and definitely gets warm. I would move up to the T777 if it weren't so much more money, but can get a 2 channel power amp to take the load of the main L-R speakers for less money now.

 

[PENG]

Hi to all experts!

I am planning to buy a NAD T758 but I don't know if this reciever can drive my 6 ohms 5.1 speakers I prefer this reciever cause it's a lot cheaper compare to NAD T777 but I have to consider the T777 if in case T758 cannot handle my Speakers. Help me please! Thanks!

If, and only if, you think you will run out of power the T777 won't help. To make a real difference in terms of power you are better off going with a power amp, start with 300WPC into 8 ohms and 500W into 4 ohms rated ones.

 

[KenM10759]

PENG, with the T758 rated at 60 w/ch and the T777 rated at 80 w/ch all 7 channels driven (110w & 140w FTC 2-ch rating), what's the average difference in SPL at full volume between the two receivers? I know it's really not much, the main difference being in the total feature array of each model.

 

[PENG]

PENG, with the T758 rated at 60 w/ch and the T777 rated at 80 w/ch all 7 channels driven (110w & 140w FTC 2-ch rating), what's the average difference in SPL at full volume between the two receivers? I know it's really not much, the main difference being in the total feature array of each model.

The difference is about 1 dB. The choice between the two should not be based on power, but as you mentioned, the feature array.

 

[KenM10759]

I'm keeping my eyes open for a deal on an appropriate simple, trigger-fired 2-channel power amp to feed my front L-R mains as I use my 5.1 system (and NAD T758) probably 90% or more for 2-channel music.

I don't need to approach the maximum SPL of the R500's (111dB), just want to be able to sustain reference level with some headroom. I can just about get there with the T758 (showing 0dB.) Where do you think I need to be for power? I have been looking at the NAD 275BEE though appreciate input on similar quality units.

 

[PENG]

I'm keeping my eyes open for a deal on an appropriate simple, trigger-fired 2-channel power amp to feed my front L-R mains as I use my 5.1 system (and NAD T758) probably 90% or more for 2-channel music.

I don't need to approach the maximum SPL of the R500's (111dB), just want to be able to sustain reference level with some headroom. I can just about get there with the T758 (showing 0dB.) Where do you think I need to be for power? I have been looking at the NAD 275BEE though appreciate input on similar quality units.

The R500's sensitivity is 88 dB/2.83V/m, nominal impedance is 8 ohm., with min of 3.2 ohms.

So assuming your sitting distance is 10 ft, impedance of 4 ohms, no room gain and no increase from having more than 1 speaker, that is "mono", you need 7W to achieve 85 dB (Ref SPL) and 1002W to allow for 20 dB peaks.

In reality, the effective/average impedance of the R500 is probably 6 ohms or closer to 8 ohms if you crossover at 80 Hz. You can also expect at least 3 dB of room gain, and some gain from having multiple speakers and subwoofers, so your actual power need will probably drop to more realistic levels of around 2W for average ref spl and 200W for dynamic peaks of up to 20 dB. For music without subwoofer, I highly doubt you need to listen at ref spl but if you must, then the 275BEE should get you the headroom you need to cover the dynamic peaks in music. So basically your T758 is fine for movies if you sit within 10 ft, crossover set to 80 Hz but may be a touch marginal for some movies.

For music, if you listen at 85 dB average spl, you only need the 275BEE if the music you listen to has 20 dB peaks. Jazz and pops don't usually have that kind of peaks, probably more like 6 to 12 dB. None of the figures should be taken as anything other than ball park estimate numbers. They are only accurate if the assumptions used in my calculations represents reality, and that is clearly impossible.

 

[KenM10759]

Thanks! I would say that I'm probably listening at that 85dB level. Sometimes a little higher but that's rare...and exactly when the receiver clicks off. I will first try moving the crossover point from 60hz to 80hz to see if that helps with the load. Going from an SB1000 to the stronger SB2000 sub certainly has been the "ear-opener" I expected and I'm sure it can handle more work.

I do vary where I sit. Most comfortably its a seat about 12 feet away and slightly to the left, but I don't notice a huge shift in 2-channel balance, just a moderate and acceptable one. If I get up and move to the 7 foot away center sweet spot, the imaging is so good that I've had to check that center speaker to make sure it's OFF. I really only watch movies very rarely, and because I do that at night when my 1st floor tenant is home I turn the sub down or sometimes off. Sucks, I know, because that's the best part of the movies.

The R500 specs give it a max 150w rating, I assume that's continuous and some transient peaks aren't a problem. This is all an interim measure unless my income drops dramatically. My goal is to get somehow a smooth, easy to change from 5.1 surround with video to 2.1 without video system that doesn't suck and gets the most out of the speakers. I know there's a lot left on the table now.

 

[PENG]

Thanks! I would say that I'm probably listening at that 85dB level. Sometimes a little higher but that's rare...and exactly when the receiver clicks off. I will first try moving the crossover point from 60hz to 80hz to see if that helps with the load. Going from an SB1000 to the stronger SB2000 sub certainly has been the "ear-opener" I expected and I'm sure it can handle more work.

I do vary where I sit. Most comfortably its a seat about 12 feet away and slightly to the left, but I don't notice a huge shift in 2-channel balance, just a moderate and acceptable one. If I get up and move to the 7 foot away center sweet spot, the imaging is so good that I've had to check that center speaker to make sure it's OFF. I really only watch movies very rarely, and because I do that at night when my 1st floor tenant is home I turn the sub down or sometimes off. Sucks, I know, because that's the best part of the movies.

The R500 specs give it a max 150w rating, I assume that's continuous and some transient peaks aren't a problem. This is all an interim measure unless my income drops dramatically. My goal is to get somehow a smooth, easy to change from 5.1 surround with video to 2.1 without video system that doesn't suck and gets the most out of the speakers. I know there's a lot left on the table now.

keep in mind too if you sit 12 ft from the R500 and you listen at 85 dB, at 1m you will be at 96.3 dB. So during the 20 dB peaks the R500 will have to do 116.3 dB (again, that's the worst case scenario),and that would be well above it's rated output. In practical terms, of course there are room gains and other factors so the R500 will get some help.

I actually doubt the R500 can produce 111 dB cleanly. They did not specify whether that 111 dB is for a particular frequency, frequency band or pink noise, so there is a lot of guessing. I still don't understand why people have to listen at reference level at home. One main reason I prefer to watch movies at home is so I don't have to subject myself to ref level for two hours. I am sure I don't have perfect hearing, but 80 dB is the maximum I can tolerate and 75 dB+20 dB dynamic peak is what I find most enjoyable. That means I only need 1/10 of the power you need, though I have almost 2 kW on tap for my HT and 250 and 300 WPC for my two channel systems.

 

[KenM10759]

LOL...I don't have to listen to reference level at home....though I occasionally want to. I'm most often at a level that my wife can speak to me from 6 or 8 feet away in a normal tone and understand her.

Then there's times when the stereo system is completely off, she can be speaking to me face to face and I hear....nothing.

I just want a system that I can listen to with speakers at a "pretty stout" volume (as in, requires shouting to be heard from 6 feet away) but without shutting down. No need to get too technical.

Thanks for your help!

 

[PENG]

LOL...I don't have to listen to reference level at home....though I occasionally want to. I'm most often at a level that my wife can speak to me from 6 or 8 feet away in a normal tone and understand her.

Thank goodness, lol what confused me was this:

I would say that I'm probably listening at that 85dB level. Sometimes a little higher but that's rare...and exactly when the receiver clicks off.

So the 275 BEE will get you 3 dB more headroom and you should be well covered except for those rare moments..

 

[mtrycrafts]

...
... I still don't understand why people have to listen at reference level at home. One main reason I prefer to watch movies at home is so I don't have to subject myself to ref level for two hours. ...

I also like it at home as the movie has a "pause" button to it.

 

[mtrycrafts]

LOL...I don't have to listen to reference level at home....though I occasionally want to. I'm most often at a level that my wife can speak to me from 6 or 8 feet away in a normal tone and understand her.

That is ok for casual TV watching for me but not the big screen.

Then there's times when the stereo system is completely off, she can be speaking to me face to face and I hear....nothing.

...

You said a mouth full here

 

[KenM10759]

For casual TV watching I have it LOW. Low enough that the sub is barely detectable, and after 10pm the receiver is off and I'm watching news, home repair or car-related show using the TV's own speakers.

For the rare time when I can and do watch a movie on my TV (no big screen here, just a 55" LED TV), it'll be in 5.1 and is moderately loud on average so I can actually hear low-level dialogue.

More than 95% of the time my receiver is on, it's in 2.1 stereo mode and playing music through my Bluesound Vault. Usually my own library, occasionally browsing Tidal Hi-Fi for new-to-me music. I'm looking to upgrade my turntable to something like a Pro-Ject RM5 so I can again take the time to play some of the vinyl collection. It just sounds like mud on the one I got.

 

[Relly Carreon]

What speakers are they, and what volume are you trying to achieve? Are all five speakers of the same maker and series?

I have a T758 driving my 5.1 system and it works fine right up to just below reference level. It will go into protection mode after a few minutes there and definitely gets warm. I would move up to the T777 if it weren't so much more money, but can get a 2 channel power amp to take the load of the main L-R speakers for less money now.

Hi! Thank you for all your response. Actually I have a 7.1 Monitor Audio Silver RX 7.1 Speaker System all rated at 6ohms and I have a Mcintosh Power Amplifier MC7100 to be use for my Left and Right Front Speakers.

My kids loves to play music as loud as they want. What do you think is the best reciever for remaining speakers and do you think the mc7100 can drive my 2 front speakers?

Thanks!

 

[KenM10759]

The MC7100 amplifier is a very good one, and puts out 100 watts per channel at 8Ω. That's plenty enough to get your speakers blasting. The important issue would be a matter of when running "music as loud as they want" do they understand hearing damage is cumulative, and permanent? You should be monitoring that use of the system. Understand that the remaining 5 speakers would use the 60 watts per channel of the T758 or 80 watts of the T777, though there's "a little more in the tank" if the receiver is no longer feeding the power hungry front mains. That's plenty enough to annoy (or hurt the hearing) of anyone.

Either receiver is fine though anytime budget allows a higher level one usually affords more features than the cheaper one. In the case of NAD, you don't get the higher level Audyssey MultEQ XT32 or 4K video with either. They (NAD) do promise a 4K upgrade for spring of this year but don't hold your breath waiting. What you do get is one MDC card with the T758 and two with the T777, and the power difference.

BTW, when I looked at the MA Silver it looked like they are 8Ω speakers, not 6Ω.

 

[Relly Carreon]

The MC7100 amplifier is a very good one, and puts out 100 watts per channel at 8Ω. That's plenty enough to get your speakers blasting. The important issue would be a matter of when running "music as loud as they want" do they understand hearing damage is cumulative, and permanent? You should be monitoring that use of the system. Understand that the remaining 5 speakers would use the 60 watts per channel of the T758 or 80 watts of the T777, though there's "a little more in the tank" if the receiver is no longer feeding the power hungry front mains. That's plenty enough to annoy (or hurt the hearing) of anyone.

Either receiver is fine though anytime budget allows a higher level one usually affords more features than the cheaper one. In the case of NAD, you don't get the higher level Audyssey MultEQ XT32 or 4K video with either. They (NAD) do promise a 4K upgrade for spring of this year but don't hold your breath waiting. What you do get is one MDC card with the T758 and two with the T777, and the power difference.

BTW, when I looked at the MA Silver it looked like they are 8Ω speakers, not 6Ω.

Hi! The MA Silver are 8 ohms but my MA Silver RX8 it says they are 4ohms but I'm not sure if it is a 4 ohms or 6 ohms but they are not 8 ohms.

Thank you for your advice.
I don't monitor my kids when I'm at work. I have a 2 marantz reciever and they all broke because I think the marantz cannot drive 4ohms or 6 ohms speakers that is why I bought this macintosh to separate the front rx8 speakers. And now I'm planning to buy a NAD but I want to make sure if they can drive my unit into 6ohms or 4ohms.

 

[PENG]

Hi! The MA Silver are 8 ohms but my MA Silver RX8 it says they are 4ohms but I'm not sure if it is a 4 ohms or 6 ohms but they are not 8 ohms.

Both MA Silver 8 are RX8 are 4 ohms nominal.
Marantz receivers can drive 4 ohms speaker as long as you don't push them to the limit. I installed a Silver 8 5.2 recently using a Marantz SR-7010 in a large room and there was no problem at all. We were able to listen very loud with volume at -20.

 

[KenM10759]

The NAD receivers are all rated for handling 4ohm speakers. If nothing else, they're as close to "blow up proof" as you'll find in regards to their amps. The "soft clipping" feature will be the thing that saves your receiver...and your speakers.