Spade barrel connector thingys

[pachieh]

So I'm building some speaker cables for my Aerial 6Ts right now and am trying to source some quality spade barrel connector thingys. I have no idea what the technical term is, so I need some help...

For reference, look at the Furutech CF-201s. You'll notice a barrel connector thingy over the backend of the spade to cover where the wire gets soldered in.

What's it called and where can I buy them (if I already have the spades)?

 

[JohnnieB]

Not positive on the exact barrel spade thingy you're talking about, but to finish off cable ends I like to use heat shrink tubing.

Most automotive parts stores carry it, Napa can definately order it. I haven't seen it in any color other than black.

The shrink tubing you want, pay attention this is the important part, has adhesive in it. When you heat the shrink tube the adhesive melts and seals itself. It's meant to keep water out, but makes a nice clean airtight connection.

Heatshrink.com, even comes in colors. Just found it.

 

[ImcLoud]

You can use Fconn
https://www.parts-express.com/f-conn-gold-spade-tip--092-658
https://www.parts-express.com/f-conn-universal-gold-speaker-connector-kit--092-654
they sell bananas, pins, ect that fit the base...

or you can buy them all together
Amazon.com: Sewell Deadbolt 45° Spade Plugs, 6 Pairs: Electronics
Amazon.com: Aurum Gold Series Spade Plugs - 45 degrees bent - 24k Gold plated Connectors - 24 pack (12 Red, 12 Black): Electronics
Amazon.com: Mediabridge ULTRA Series Fast-Lock 45° Spade Plugs - 6 Pair Per Package: Electronics
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Premium-Degree-Connector-Pieces/dp/B0050CEA40/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1409575646&sr=8-6&keywords=speaker+spade

dont forget the pants Amazon.com: Speaker Wire Pants - 10 Gauge (Y Boot) -10 Pack: Electronics

and tech flex 1 2 Braided Expandable Sleeving Rattlesnake Techflex 25ft | eBay
good luck and welcome to the forum

 

[Swerd]

Trouble can occur with those spade connectors. The threaded nut on the binding posts often can vibrate loose, allowing the spade connector to fall off.

To prevent that, some people have been known to use pliers or a wrench to tighten the binding post nut. These posts are brass, and you can easily break it off with a tool. Use fingers to tighten them, or better yet, skip the spade connectors and use banana plugs.

The bigger and heavier the spade connector, the worse this problem can get.

 

[ImcLoud]

Trouble can occur with those spade connectors. The threaded nut on the binding posts often can vibrate loose, allowing the spade connector to fall off.

To prevent that, some people have been known to use pliers or a wrench to tighten the binding post nut. These posts are brass, and you can easily break it off with a tool. Use fingers to tighten them, or better yet, skip the spade connectors and use banana plugs.

The bigger and heavier the spade connector, the worse this problem can get.

A drip of red loctite may work too... Amazon.com: Henkel 01-24200 Loctite 6-ml Threadlocker 242: Home Improvement or the blue but I like the red..

 

[Swerd]

A drip of red loctite may work too... Amazon.com: Henkel 01-24200 Loctite 6-ml Threadlocker 242: Home Improvement or the blue but I like the red..

That's too cheap and simple for audiophile applications. To maintain proper time and phase alignment, use the red loctite for the left speaker and the blue for the right. And – use only the oxygen-free audiophile grade loctite .

 

[ImcLoud]

That's too cheap and simple for audiophile applications. To maintain proper time and phase alignment, use the red loctite for the left speaker and the blue for the right. And – use only the oxygen-free audiophile grade loctite .

LOL, or bring them to a metal shop and have them tig welded together, then they will never come apart and you would have spent enough money to call yourself a pedophile, I mean audiophile... sorry...

 

[JohnnieB]

The expandable braid is nice. I would definitely use the shrink tube if I used the braid. Finishes the end off nice and clean and holds it in place.

WOW mcloud, where is your mind.

 

[Irvrobinson]

Trouble can occur with those spade connectors. The threaded nut on the binding posts often can vibrate loose, allowing the spade connector to fall off.

To prevent that, some people have been known to use pliers or a wrench to tighten the binding post nut. These posts are brass, and you can easily break it off with a tool. Use fingers to tighten them, or better yet, skip the spade connectors and use banana plugs.

The bigger and heavier the spade connector, the worse this problem can get.

I've heard this old wives' tale so many times. I've been using spade connectors for years on big speakers with strong sub-30Hz response and I've never had a problem with them loosening. In fact, I'm using large, heavy spade connectors as I type this on a couple of different sets of speakers.

To the OP, I don't know why you'd use such expensive connectors unless you got them for nearly free. The ones you can buy from Home Depot work just as well.

 

[pachieh]

Yeah, never heard of vibrations undoing binding posts...

Irvrobinson - I was just using those as a comparison looking at the barrel part of it. No way I'd pay $150 for a pair of spades.

To the second poster, why adhesive heat shrink? Cool that it keeps moisture out, but for indoor use only, seems like overkill.


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[ImcLoud]

seems like overkill.


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Now your getting it...

 

[sawzalot]

Yeah, never heard of vibrations undoing binding posts...

Irvrobinson - I was just using those as a comparison looking at the barrel part of it. No way I'd pay $150 for a pair of spades.

To the second poster, why adhesive heat shrink? Cool that it keeps moisture out, but for indoor use only, seems like overkill.


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Sounds like you knew exactly what you needed prior to the 1st post.
Never hurts to do a little research as well.

 

[pachieh]

Unless I can get some machines barrels for 10 bucks or something. Purely for aesthetic reasons. Just seeing infantile knew where I could get the barrel part minus the spade


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[JohnnieB]

The adhesive was designed for automotive use. It keeps water out of spliced wire connections. An added feature is that it makes an airtight seal to keep soldered connections from oxidizing or corroding. It gives a nice finished look to wire terminals and is an added defense against wires pulling free. The braiding, if your inclined to using it, comes in bulk length. Once you cut it to length the ends will want to unravel. This would prevent that.

I use this stuff for a plethora of things. If you decide to try it, I have no doubt you will also find many uses for it.

 

[Swerd]

I've heard this old wives' tale so many times. I've been using spade connectors for years on big speakers with strong sub-30Hz response and I've never had a problem with them loosening. In fact, I'm using large, heavy spade connectors as I type this on a couple of different sets of speakers.

You must not be listening loud enough .

There are some binding posts that seem to easily vibrate loose, and others that don't. It only takes one episode of this to convince me it isn't worth doing:

I knew someone whose spades did come loose, touch each other, and short out his amp. After he got it repaired, he was determined to never allow that to happen again. So he torqued those binding posts right off.

He was going to pay lots to repair them too, but asked me if I could help. New posts from Madisound, a lecture about how brass is soft, and "why don't you put the wrench away", and he was happy again.