T

tclay77

Enthusiast
Just another dumb question. How do you come up with room size volume? would it be like my 14x30x8=3360? That would be the cubic Ft? And if so would a SVS PB12-plus/2 be enough for jaw dropping bass? Thnks for any replys.:D
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Yes, that would be your cubic feet, which is what you really need to know. You have to factor in any other rooms that room is open to as well. I would think a Plus/2 would be good in a room that size.
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
That sub destroys my 8200 cu ft room, and is beautiful as well..
Sound coming from a Plus/2 is amazing... Look for my posts...
Im am totally happy with it... extension is great down low, and shakes my house like crazy... :)(
 
B

Buckeye_Nut

Audioholic Field Marshall
I'm guessing that rattle-proofing is needed. Once you eliminate all the rattles, you'll be thrilled with rattle-free sound.
 
M

markw

Audioholic Overlord
Yeah, but...

Buckeye_Nut said:
I'm guessing that rattle-proofing is needed. Once you eliminate all the rattles, you'll be thrilled with rattle-free sound.
...what if that rattling is coming from ones teeth? :eek:
 
B

BabelFish

Full Audioholic
j_garcia said:
Yes, that would be your cubic feet, which is what you really need to know. You have to factor in any other rooms that room is open to as well. I would think a Plus/2 would be good in a room that size.
How do you factor in the rooms that are attached and are "open" to that room? Is there some factor or just add that to the cubic feet of the room?

Example.. our family room (HT room) is 19x18x7(ish?) but the dinning room is attached to it with a wide open entrance (no doors) the kitchen is attached to the dinning room (also with no door).. the den is attached to the kitchen with no door also... (yes.. there are doors in my house... :) ) etc...

Not trying to steal the thread here... if I should make a new thread for this question.. please let me know. :)
 
B

Buckeye_Nut

Audioholic Field Marshall
markw said:
...what if that rattling is coming from ones teeth? :eek:

LOL:D :D :D :D :D

You need to rattle-proof your teeth..........

 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
BabelFish said:
How do you factor in the rooms that are attached and are "open" to that room? Is there some factor or just add that to the cubic feet of the room?

Example.. our family room (HT room) is 19x18x7(ish?) but the dinning room is attached to it with a wide open entrance (no doors) the kitchen is attached to the dinning room (also with no door).. the den is attached to the kitchen with no door also... (yes.. there are doors in my house... :) ) etc...

Not trying to steal the thread here... if I should make a new thread for this question.. please let me know. :)

There is no factor, you simply have to add the total volume of those rooms into the equation.
 
D

Dolby CP-200

Banned
Buckeye_Nut said:
I'm guessing that rattle-proofing is needed. Once you eliminate all the rattles, you'll be thrilled with rattle-free sound.
Agreed

Windows, shelving, objects on top of sheaving, all of which needs securing even a light fitting can buzz and when it’s placed overhead, makes it difficult to locate.

Once you have found that elusive vibration or rattling buzzing thing, just apply Mr. Blu Tack and relax. :)

 
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