Receiver that can power a passive amp?

[freddie00]

Hi:

I am putting together my first home entertainment system. I should have visited here first but I took some questionable advice from my brother in law and now I have to decide whether to return everything and start from scratch or try to make it work. I am trying to make it work cause I have all the holes in the sheetrock made already.

I'm going for 5.1 Dolby Digital.

First, all the wire I ran was 18 gauge, I hope this is OK? All the runs are under 15ft with most at <8ft.

My r/l front/back speakers are all Yamaha NS-IC600 (8Ohm, 110W).

My center is a Yamaha NS-IW760 (8Ohm, 130W).

The culprit is this Kicker CVT COMPVT10 he had me buy. This is like something you put in back of your car in a box. I really didnt want to get into amps or anything, so I was wondering, since I haven't purchased a receiver yet, is there any receiver that could make this set up work? I read some information about wiring a passive sub in parallel with all the speaker lines and then setting the SUB option to "no" but Im not sure if that applies to modern receivers?

Thanks in advance.

 

[ImcLoud]

Hi:

I am putting together my first home entertainment system. I should have visited here first but I took some questionable advice from my brother in law and now I have to decide whether to return everything and start from scratch or try to make it work. I am trying to make it work cause I have all the holes in the sheetrock made already.

I'm going for 5.1 Dolby Digital.

First, all the wire I ran was 18 gauge, I hope this is OK? All the runs are under 15ft with most at <8ft.

My r/l front/back speakers are all Yamaha NS-IC600 (8Ohm, 110W).

My center is a Yamaha NS-IW760 (8Ohm, 130W).

The culprit is this Kicker CVT COMPVT10 he had me buy. This is like something you put in back of your car in a box. I really didnt want to get into amps or anything, so I was wondering, since I haven't purchased a receiver yet, is there any receiver that could make this set up work? I read some information about wiring a passive sub in parallel with all the speaker lines and then setting the SUB option to "no" but Im not sure if that applies to modern receivers?

Thanks in advance.

first of all the 18ga is kind of small, I like to think 16ga minimum.... but it should work...

as for the sub, kind of a tough call on that one, were you just throwing it in a wall cavity? you will need an amp, a good option is the dayton apa150 apa150 - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free, it has a built in xover and will take the signal from your avrs sub output...

Now as far as the built in speakers, not the best idea for surround sound, but if its what you have it what you have....

for a receiver anything will work, I would opt for the denon 1613 since its affordable and has good room software that you are going to need, lol... http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/DENAVR1613/DENON-AVR-1613-5.1ch-Networking-Receiver-w/AirPlay-3D-ready/1.html so with that and the apa150 you should be under $400 shipped...

can you put some pics up of what you have or holes where the speakers are going? as far as the sub, you should build a box for it, but the best option is to return it and buy a decent sub with built in amp, what is your budget to get this sorted out????

 

[TLS Guy]

Hi:

I am putting together my first home entertainment system. I should have visited here first but I took some questionable advice from my brother in law and now I have to decide whether to return everything and start from scratch or try to make it work. I am trying to make it work cause I have all the holes in the sheetrock made already.

I'm going for 5.1 Dolby Digital.

First, all the wire I ran was 18 gauge, I hope this is OK? All the runs are under 15ft with most at <8ft.

My r/l front/back speakers are all Yamaha NS-IC600 (8Ohm, 110W).

My center is a Yamaha NS-IW760 (8Ohm, 130W).

The culprit is this Kicker CVT COMPVT10 he had me buy. This is like something you put in back of your car in a box. I really didnt want to get into amps or anything, so I was wondering, since I haven't purchased a receiver yet, is there any receiver that could make this set up work? I read some information about wiring a passive sub in parallel with all the speaker lines and then setting the SUB option to "no" but Im not sure if that applies to modern receivers?

Thanks in advance.

There is no such receiver. You will need an amp between that receiver and the sub. If you attempt that wiring plan to the sub you outlined, you will blow your receiver instantly and void the warranty.

That sub is a raw driver. It needs an enclosure, and it is not suitable for home audio/HT.

 

[markw]

Wiring the sub in parallel with your main speakers will elicit noise out of it but the sound will be horrendous. You need a crossover on that bugger as well.

Take the Kicker passive auto subwoofer back and buy a proprer powered subwoofer. That's what home theatre receivers are made to work with. Aside from having the power amp built in thet you need, it'll be able to be driven by the sub out on the receiver, which has a crosover built in.

Good luck on your family issues. I had a BiL like that once ...once.

 

[mtrycrafts]

Hi:

I am putting together my first home entertainment system. I should have visited here first but I took some questionable advice from my brother in law and now I have to decide whether to return everything and start from scratch or try to make it work. I am trying to make it work cause I have all the holes in the sheetrock made already.

I'm going for 5.1 Dolby Digital.

First, all the wire I ran was 18 gauge, I hope this is OK? All the runs are under 15ft with most at <8ft.

My r/l front/back speakers are all Yamaha NS-IC600 (8Ohm, 110W).

My center is a Yamaha NS-IW760 (8Ohm, 130W).

The culprit is this Kicker CVT COMPVT10 he had me buy. This is like something you put in back of your car in a box. I really didnt want to get into amps or anything, so I was wondering, since I haven't purchased a receiver yet, is there any receiver that could make this set up work? I read some information about wiring a passive sub in parallel with all the speaker lines and then setting the SUB option to "no" but Im not sure if that applies to modern receivers?

Thanks in advance.

Welcome

I am sure yopur b-i-l meant well but it seems he has a long way to go to help you.
Depending on your budget and what you want to accomplish, room size, may want to leave the option of returning everything and starting fresh on the table. You should spend some time here to get the hang of things in audio. The home page has some helpful articles to read as well.
If you want it bad, you'll get it bad.

 

[freddie00]

Thanks again for your replies everyone. Sounds like the best option is to get a powered sub. My budget for the sub and the receiver i am going to buy i would like to be under 1k. Is there anyway to get this sucker in the wall? I know one of you said this isnt the best option for surround sound but with the small room im working with i really want to save space. I came across some numbers for the wire gauges, according to the following, does that mean 18ga will allow for up to 240w per channel for your normal 8 ohm home theather set up?? Or do you consider the receiver, for instance i get a 700w receiver meaning this gauge is way too small.

22 gauge: ~2.2 amperes
8 ohms - <36 watts
6 ohms - <27 watts
4 ohms - <18 watts
3 ohms - <13.5 watts
2 ohms - <9 watts
1 ohm - <4.5 watts

20 gauge: ~3.4 amperes
8 ohms - <96 watts
6 ohms - <72 watts
4 ohms - <48 watts
3 ohms - <36 watts
2 ohms - <24 watts
1 ohm - <12 watts

18 gauge: ~5.5 amperes
8 ohms - <240 watts
6 ohms - <180 watts
4 ohms - <120 watts
3 ohms - <90 watts
2 ohms - <60 watts
1 ohm - <30 watts

16 gauge: ~8.7 amperes
8 ohms - <600 w

 

[markw]

Don't get anal about speaker wire gauge. Generally, anything between 12 - 16 gauge will be sufficient for normal hone use. I tend to lean towards the thicker wire myself and besides, the price difference isn't all that great.

[edit] I see you aleady ran 18 gauge. That should work fine for the distances you mention.

 

[ImcLoud]

for $1000 you can get it done, look at HSU for subs, there are other built in subs, but I have only really spent time listening to the JL audio model which will destroy your budget by thousands... For the avr go to accesories4less and pick one with the dillys you like... denon onkyo marantz yamaha ect they are all decent now...

 

[freddie00]

Imcloud, im not seeing any hsu subs that are built in, in fact i read a forum post that said they had no plans to make a built in. Are you refering to their speakers that also come with a woofer in them?

 

[freddie00]

What do you think of this as far as ease of integration with a standard modern receiver that i will purchase? Im not expecting much for this price but if it will get me 5.1 i wont complain.

 

[freddie00]

IWS8 8" In Wall Subwoofer with SMP250 Subwoofer Amplifier Combo

 

[markw]

That in-wall requirement is gonna kill ya.

For that kind of money, you're pretty close to a "real" standalone subwoofer from Hsu, Velodyne or aseveral others. Hell, even BIC offers a pretty decent starter 12" unit for about $200 that'll outperforrm that one you mention.

Either that, ot face the fact that you're simply gonna have to buy a separate power amp for whatever raw driver you wind up with.

Wise money would be on the former.