Power Ratings in Modern AVR's

Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
If you are curious me, you will continue to troubleshoot until the root cause(s) are identified but only if the return window allows. If you want to save time and/or are getting tired of this, return it and get a equivalent Yamaha. No point getting the Denon because they will be practically give you the same results, unless your Marantz is defective.

After that if you still have the problem then like you said send the guy a beer, along with the offending speakers. If he finds nothing wrong, then you may be the culprit.:D
Haha, never an impossibility there.

It's not that I'm getting tired of trying to figure it out, it's just that all this is really starting to eat too much into time I need to be spending focusing on other things. I actually enjoy troubleshooting and wish I had more time to commit to continuing this saga. Plus I think my girlfriend has reached her patience threshold with all this. I've taken an almost obsessive approach to tweaking and testing my system lately, so I need to reign it all in a bit, lol. Keep in mind all this was ideally supposed to be a fairly equivalent swap-out, maybe some difficulties learning Audyssey at first and what works best, but beyond that smooth sailing and getting back to my other many life obligations.

My return window is open through 3/4. My girlfriend's patience window and my need to get a few big projects completed for clients, much shorter than that. :(
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
PENG, are you in agreement with TLS Guy that the Yamaha would be the better option?

I was looking at the RX-A2060 which is yet another step up and provides more power, but the RX-A1060 is the equivalent model to both the Marantz I have now and my old Pioneer in terms of rated output. The 1060 only offers 7 channels (vs. 9.2), but I believe does have pre-outs. I tend to still just run my basic 5.1 system for the foreseeable future with the 2-speaker zone 2 outside. I liked the idea of going with a 9.2 AVR because who knows what I may want to add in the future and I liked having that option in reserve. The 2060 is much more powerful but is the first model in the Yamaha line beyond the 1060 that offers 9.2. I'd also have to shell out about 300 more bucks to exchange it for that one, vs. the 1060 I'd actually be getting some money back.

Which... could go towards a speaker fund....

The 1060 boasts 110w per channel 8-ohm 20-20khz with 0.06% THD which is extremely close to the same Marantz spec with the exception of THD. Marantz has theirs listed at 0.08%. If these are accurate it suggests that the Yamaha has marginally more headroom than the Marantz but nearly identical in every respect, power output-wise.

The 2060 OTOH, gives a rating of 140wpc at 20hz - 20khz, 8-ohm, 0.06% THD. Would be no question of sufficient power with that one.
 
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Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
That option may still give us an answer bear in mind. If everything sounds great again then we know it was the Marantz, and honestly without having detailed technical manuals, schematics, proper test equipment and a good understanding of the intricate workings of the receiver on a circuit level, and the time to take the whole thing apart, strip it down to its boards and start troubleshooting at the component level, it would be next to impossible to determine a specific root cause beyond "it was the AVR, not the speakers." If I exchange it, fire up the new AVR and still have problems, then it becomes quite clear that my speakers are to blame.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
PENG, are you in agreement with TLS Guy that the Yamaha would be the better option?

I was looking at the RX-A2060 which is yet another step up and provides more power, but the RX-A1060 is the equivalent model to both the Marantz I have now and my old Pioneer in terms of rated output. The 1060 only offers 7 channels (vs. 9.2), but I believe does have pre-outs. I tend to still just run my basic 5.1 system for the foreseeable future with the 2-speaker zone 2 outside. I liked the idea of going with a 9.2 AVR because who knows what I may want to add in the future and I liked having that option in reserve. The 2060 is much more powerful but is the first model in the Yamaha line beyond the 1060 that offers 9.2. I'd also have to shell out about 300 more bucks to exchange it for that one, vs. the 1060 I'd actually be getting some money back.

Which... could go towards a speaker fund....

Yes I agree with TLS Guy that the Yamaha is a better option than the class D Pioneer AVRs. You are right, the 1060 is no more powerful than the Marantz, so yes go with the 2060 that should get you a couple more dB than the 6011. The extra $300 is worth it.
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
That option may still give us an answer bear in mind. If everything sounds great again then we know it was the Marantz, and honestly without having detailed technical manuals, schematics, proper test equipment and a good understanding of the intricate workings of the receiver on a circuit level, and the time to take the whole thing apart, strip it down to its boards and start troubleshooting at the component level, it would be next to impossible to determine a specific root cause beyond "it was the AVR, not the speakers." If I exchange it, fire up the new AVR and still have problems, then it becomes quite clear that my speakers are to blame.
Agree, but it would only prove your Marantz is defective in some ways, for reasons I have already provided in my previous posts. From TLSG's last post, he will agree with me too.
 
vsound5150

vsound5150

Audioholic
Haha, never an impossibility there.

It's not that I'm getting tired of trying to figure it out, it's just that all this is really starting to eat too much into time I need to be spending focusing on other things. I actually enjoy troubleshooting and wish I had more time to commit to continuing this saga. Plus I think my girlfriend has reached her patience threshold with all this. I've taken an almost obsessive approach to tweaking and testing my system lately, so I need to reign it all in a bit, lol. Keep in mind all this was ideally supposed to be a fairly equivalent swap-out, maybe some difficulties learning Audyssey at first and what works best, but beyond that smooth sailing and getting back to my other many life obligations.

My return window is open through 3/4. My girlfriend's patience window and my need to get a few big projects completed for clients, much shorter than that. :(
Possibly the Marantz is defective if all channels driven are not putting out i.e. power supply issues and you mentioned the unit gets abnormally hot too.

My Marantz SR-7010 doesn't get very hot even driving all channels on a full Saturday. I put an external fan ontop the AVR when I first got it after hearing others on this forum do it but now feel it may not be needed but I'll still keep it running.

Thanks for all your efforts and sharing your situation it's an awesome thread to follow and learn from everyone's input.
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
Possibly the Marantz is defective if all channels driven are not putting out i.e. power supply issues and you mentioned the unit gets abnormally hot too.

My Marantz SR-7010 doesn't get very hot even driving all channels on a full Saturday. I put an external fan ontop the AVR when I first got it after hearing others on this forum do it but now feel it may not be needed but I'll still keep it running.

Thanks for all your efforts and sharing your situation it's an awesome thread to follow and learn from everyone's input.
Yeah the heat thing was and is definitely concerning. Though maybe not entirely indicative of bad design, maybe it's just built that way, maybe the heat sinks are very close to the top cover. Not just my unit either, the display in the store was also very hot.

I tend to believe if it was bad design and an issue with all SR6011's the internet would be ablaze with comments and complaints by now. This thing has been on the market long enough. So this leads me to lean towards just a glitch in my particular unit perhaps. But to rule that out completely I'm going to go ahead and swap it out with the Yamaha RX-A2060, take PENG's advice to heart that yes the extra $300 is worth it. Go from there.

This thread has truly been educational and very informative. I will walk back into Best Buy with a lot more direct technical questions based on what I've learned here so the Magnolia guy better be prepared :D
 
vsound5150

vsound5150

Audioholic
Halon451, just curious do you know for sure if it was a brand new Marantz unit Best Buy sold you? The reason I ask is because I believe there's a lot of used/repackaged/demos/returns floating around. Crutchfield shipped me used SVS subs even I purchased new. Since then I have been checking every box that shows up making sure it's factory sealed tape and the box hasn't been retapped. My Marantz purchased from amazon was factory sealed.
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
Actually it's only $200 more than my Marantz. I can't math. My local store doesn't even stock that one in house they'll have to order it from their warehouse. So I'm going to go down there on my lunch break today pay the difference and see if that's enough to get it shipped. Box up the Marantz on Saturday morning and take it in which should be enough time for the Yamaha to have gotten there. Fortunately my gf works Saturday so I will be able to do all this without her scornful glare staring over me lol.
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
Halon451, just curious do you know for sure if it was a brand new Marantz unit Best Buy sold you? The reason I ask is because I believe there's a lot of used/repackaged/demos/returns floating around. Crutchfield shipped me used SVS subs even I purchased new. Since then I have been checking every box that shows up making sure it's factory sealed tape and the box hasn't been retapped. My Marantz purchased from amazon was factory sealed.
Yeah nothing indicated it had been repackaged when I opened it. But tbh I wasn't really paying attention to that specifically.
 
vsound5150

vsound5150

Audioholic
Yeah nothing indicated it had been repackaged when I opened it. But tbh I wasn't really paying attention to that specifically.
The Yamaha will sound really nice, if not, then the Pioneer will be waiting :D
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
Halon, what happened to the old pioneer? I might have missed that.
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
I sold it to a guy here locally for $200. He wanted a good 1080p receiver for his kids game room.
 
William Lemmerhirt

William Lemmerhirt

Audioholic Overlord
I sold it to a guy here locally for $200. He wanted a good 1080p receiver for his kids game room.
Ok. It made sense to me that you probably sold it or whatever, and that's why you didn't hook it up to experiment with. Carry on. Lol
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
If I had it to do all over again I never would've gotten that new 4k TV. Or at least gotten just another 1080p TV that wouldn't have necessitated a full upgrade of everything else. I did not think all this through lol.
 
Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
So here's the answer to the impedance setting. I did miss this when reading it on my phone..


Carry out the following settings when using a speaker with an impedance of 4 – 6
Ω/ohms.
1. Press and hold the main unit’s ZONE2 SOURCE and STATUS at the same
time for at least 3 seconds.
“Video Format < PAL>” appears on the display.
2. Press DIMMER on the main unit twice.
“Sp.Imp. <8ohms>” appears on the display.
3. Press TUNER PRESET CH + or TUNER PRESET CH - on the main unit to
select the impedance.
6ohms: Select when the impedance for any of the connected speakers is
6 Ω/ohms.
4ohms: Select when the impedance for any of the connected speakers is
4 Ω/ohms.
4. Press the main unit’s STATUS to complete the setting.

It looks as if the unit defaults to 8 ohm and you have to do the above if you're running 4 or 6 ohm speakers. Mine are rated at 8 ohms, so I guess I'm a little confused by the transient impedance dips and what this means real-time, or even what is meant by the term nominal impedance. Also the graph above is only for the SBS-01, which are only on surround duty in my setup. Is there a similar graph for the SCS-01's which are my front three?

Should I try setting it to the 4 ohm setting?
No, leave it at 8 ohms. By setting it for 4 ohms, you just reduce the power output of your amps.
 
Halon451

Halon451

Audioholic Samurai
Hey guys I just got this: turns out I did find running Audyssey in one location and using the minimum mic placemenents allowable yielded the best sound, all others have been attempted with the exception of the outboard amp option, which I don't have the time to try and get in my house. I'm pretty much done with the Marantz. My mission has become clear. :)

IMG_0646.PNG
 

Attachments

Verdinut

Verdinut

Audioholic Spartan
Hey guys I just got this: turns out I did find running Audyssey in one location and using the minimum mic placemenents allowable yielded the best sound, all others have been attempted with the exception of the outboard amp option, which I don't have the time to try and get in my house. I'm pretty much done with the Marantz. My mission has become clear. :)

View attachment 20155
You have a defective Marantz but you could save $200 by getting it replaced by another SR6011 and see for yourself.. I am sure that it's the one you bought which is defective. Marantz is usually a very reliable product.

Another advantage of getting another Marantz is that it would save you a lot of time spent on getting acquainted with a new product from another brand.
 
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P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
You have a defective Marantz but you could save $200 by getting it replaced by another SR6011 and see for yourself.. I am sure that it's the one you bought which is defective. Marantz is usually a very reliable product.
While I agree with you, I do think if he can manage that $200 more, the RX-A2060 will have a much better chance to keep him happy for a much longer time.
 
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