New sub build

[ARES24]

Woohoo!!! I love idiot proof!!! (seriously underrated in accepted society)

 

[ARES24]

I don't get to use my dado blade very often so that's exciting! However, looking at the brace design, it may take more then a hour to get them cut. I don't have a CNC machine... yet....... I am planning to use 3/4" do you think that I will need to double the walls.

I am looking at the iNuke amps which are all rated in max output (slightly confusing for noobs!) what does it mean for me. I'm not sure what I should do, go with the 1000 and bridge for a single or the 3000 and leave myself with the option for a second unit and future proof myself. Maybe I am just getting too excited.

 

[TLS Guy]

I don't get to use my dado blade very often so that's exciting! However, looking at the brace design, it may take more then a hour to get them cut. I don't have a CNC machine... yet....... I am planning to use 3/4" do you think that I will need to double the walls.

I am looking at the iNuke amps which are all rated in max output (slightly confusing for noobs!) what does it mean for me. I'm not sure what I should do, go with the 1000 and bridge for a single or the 3000 and leave myself with the option for a second unit and future proof myself. Maybe I am just getting too excited.

3/4 inch will be fine, however I would make the speaker panel 1.5 inches.

You really will not need a really powerful amp. 400 to 900 watts will be plenty. if you eventually build 2 of them, even 400 watts for each will be over kill.

If it were me I would buy a better less powerful amp. Look at the Crown Drivecore amps.

The XLS 1500 will be fine. You can bridge it while you have one sub and use it two channel if you build another. Quite honestly, I expect with that design the amp will coast and you will not need more than a few watts.

Actually there is very little energy in the sub 80 Hz range, except in the odd Hollywood effect. It seems as if there is, as most subs are terminally inefficient. Your sub will have an efficiency as good or better than your mains. So it is safe for you to go for quality rather than quantity in your amps.

You will have the efficiency and sensitivity only a couple of db less than my TL lines. My amps just coast even with Hollywood block blockbusters. I have a total of 1000 watts on the large TL lines and two of the amps are also providing the power for the BSC signal. I can tell the amps would still be coasting even if I blew out the windows, which these lines could if you were careless.

So the bottom line is that you will not need gobs of power for that design, unlike the sealed design I did for Fuzz.

 

[KEW]

Suggest getting a Crown XTi series 2 with built in DSP and skip the Crest+Mini-DSP combo or Crest Pro Lite with DSP

I just wanted to re-emphasize this option since it covers your dsp requirement.

 

[ARES24]

You don't need DSP options. I designed that unit to be plug and play.

I am no expert but I think ^this guy is. Since he designed it for so me I will go with his recommendation. After I work it in and there is something that don't like I will go for a separate dsp option.


Hopefully I will be able to start the box soon, though I doubt it. Apparently my weekends are booked until april! Too bad, something will have to be bumped, even if it is my paying job. Bass NEEEEDS me.

I will be ordering Monday if anyone can think of something I have forgotten, current list;

1. Driver -

Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 ohm

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2. Amp -

Crown XLS 1500 DriveCore Series Power Amplifier

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3. 12G speaker wire (approx 35'-40' run)
4. Speaker terms - already have

 

[lsiberian]

I don't get to use my dado blade very often so that's exciting! However, looking at the brace design, it may take more then a hour to get them cut. I don't have a CNC machine... yet....... I am planning to use 3/4" do you think that I will need to double the walls.

I am looking at the iNuke amps which are all rated in max output (slightly confusing for noobs!) what does it mean for me. I'm not sure what I should do, go with the 1000 and bridge for a single or the 3000 and leave myself with the option for a second unit and future proof myself. Maybe I am just getting too excited.

I use 3/4" plywood and it works great. You don't really need the bracing to be pretty as long as it's functional. Simple panels work fine as long as you have clearance of some kind. I honestly use scrap wood to make braces. All it needs to do is join the boards across from each other.

On the baffle I do recommend doubling up, but everywhere else braced 3/4" ply is plenty. Also I do recommend getting a DSP for a High pass filter. But the crown should suffice as an amp.

You don't need to rabbet, but it can be a nice way to get a tighter seal. I use personally use butt end joints for all my builds. I don't have a table saw or router table to rabbet a board though.

I do recommend using ply if you can for durability, stiffness, and weight.

For the rabbeting technique you cut each board to 1/2" less than box dimensions and then rabbet a 1/4" square off each piece. When you glue them together this gives you a 1/4" gap which you place quarter round in. I'm sure you've heard of this technique before. If you have pocket screws they can make completion easy. They let you glue up really fast. But they aren't necessary.

All you really need is an air tight well braced box with the right dimensions and right port built with either ply or mdf. Beyond than you can use your own skills to assemble and finish the box. I'm betting their beyond min.

 

[TLS Guy]

I use 3/4" plywood and it works great. You don't really need the bracing to be pretty as long as it's functional. Simple panels work fine as long as you have clearance of some kind. I honestly use scrap wood to make braces. All it needs to do is join the boards across from each other.

On the baffle I do recommend doubling up, but everywhere else braced 3/4" ply is plenty. Also I do recommend getting a DSP for a High pass filter. But the crown should suffice as an amp.

You don't need to rabbet, but it can be a nice way to get a tighter seal. I use personally use butt end joints for all my builds. I don't have a table saw or router table to rabbet a board though.

I do recommend using ply if you can for durability, stiffness, and weight.

For the rabbeting technique you cut each board to 1/2" less than box dimensions and then rabbet a 1/4" square off each piece. When you glue them together this gives you a 1/4" gap which you place quarter round in. I'm sure you've heard of this technique before. If you have pocket screws they can make completion easy. They let you glue up really fast. But they aren't necessary.

All you really need is an air tight well braced box with the right dimensions and right port built with either ply or mdf. Beyond than you can use your own skills to assemble and finish the box. I'm betting their beyond min.

I really don't think there is anything to choose between ply and MDF, except that MDF is straighter, it is also heavier. Personally I use MDF.

As far as bracing is concerned, using 2 X 4 does not cut it.

B & W released a white paper some years ago, showing that the braces must interlock, which is you think about it is not surprising. The real take home from the laser pictures, was how little traditional bracing with 2 X 4 style bracing changed the situation.

 

[ARES24]

I was planning on using 3/4" maple veneer ply with quarter round corners. Since I have table saws and a router table I will dado/rabbit everything together. I will make the braces out of the left over ply. I can make them interlock in some fashion. (Jigsaw power!!) I will go with the theory 'If I can smash it apart with my hammer I haven't got it solid enough!'

I may pick up a pocket screw jig, I have been thinking about it for a while now.

Considering the recommendations for DSP, what about

Crown XTi 1002 XTi 2 Series Power Amplifier

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Does anyone have experience with it or shall I guinea pig it ?

 

[panteragstk]

Crown makes a great product with a fantastic warranty. The older XTI like was great, so I don't doubt that the newer line is also great. They are solid and just work like they are supposed to. We're going to need pictures of your build, so don't be stingy.

 

[ARES24]

Well I ordered today, should be here next week. I will keep you posted!!

 

[ARES24]

I am designing the box and I have a couple questions.

I have calculated the vent and driver displacement volumes, that adds 1.246 cu.ft.

I assume that doesn't include the volume of the material the vent is made with.


The vent length is 37.29 in, I will need to bend the vent, the vent length is then measured along the center? (not the inside or outside of the curve)

 

[TLS Guy]

I am designing the box and I have a couple questions.



I assume that doesn't include the volume of the material the vent is made with.


The vent length is 37.29 in, I will need to bend the vent, the vent length is then measured along the center? (not the inside or outside of the curve)

You are correct you will have to add that, but it will be relatively small.

 

[ARES24]

Just making sure, I would be annoyed to go through the work and find out later!

My wife is going to be annoyed with the size of my ... awesomeness? (wow, that is more suggestive then I intended )

 

[ARES24]

Is there a distance that needs to be retained between the vent and the driver? My current design has them only 1.5" apart.

 

[TLS Guy]

Is there a distance that needs to be retained between the vent and the driver? My current design has them only 1.5" apart.

That should be fine.

 

[ARES24]

Well, we are working on it. I have the cabinet mostly built, just have to cut out my inner baffle and install the corner trims.
I test fit the speaker in the front baffle and got REALLY excited for some reason....

My current questions are concerning the amp. I have a single sw rca out on the receiver, it goes to the amp via an rca-xlr cable. (http://www.crownaudio.com/media/storagebk/pdf/amps/143060.pdf so you can follow what I am looking at)
I have it set to; Input Y -- XOV 90 hz -- EQ IN -- Bridge mono

I don't know what the EQ is doing at this point, or how to change it I am assuming that is in the System Architect program.

Is there anything that I should be doing different. e.i. highpass/lowpass filters?
Where should the gain/level be set?

I ask because I would be very upset if I blew up the sub before getting to know it

 

[TLS Guy]

Well, we are working on it. I have the cabinet mostly built, just have to cut out my inner baffle and install the corner trims.
I test fit the speaker in the front baffle and got REALLY excited for some reason....

My current questions are concerning the amp. I have a single sw rca out on the receiver, it goes to the amp via an rca-xlr cable. (http://www.crownaudio.com/media/storagebk/pdf/amps/143060.pdf so you can follow what I am looking at)
I have it set to; Input Y -- XOV 90 hz -- EQ IN -- Bridge mono

I don't know what the EQ is doing at this point, or how to change it I am assuming that is in the System Architect program.

Is there anything that I should be doing different. e.i. highpass/lowpass filters?
Where should the gain/level be set?

I ask because I would be very upset if I blew up the sub before getting to know it

I don't think you need Eq I hope! The crossover should be the receiver. You don't need a crossover on the sub, just set the receiver to 80 or 60 Hz which ever sounds best. If you can set a high pass filter at 20 HZ, then I would. If not don't worry. That sub will be so efficient, you will push your windows out before you give it enough power to damage the driver. You won't need much power and no need to bridge. I don't like bridging a fat lot, and I would not do it. Just use one channel and save the other for the next sub.

 

[ARES24]

Next sub?! You would not get along very well with my wife Suffice to say she would disagree with the necessity of another. (though I don't think she would have agreed to this one either had she known what she was getting. Her opinion on the best speakers would be the Bose Acoustimass set, very small.)

 

[lsiberian]

I don't like bridging a fat lot, and I would not do it. Just use one channel and save the other for the next sub.

I have 2 channels on my amp sub and don't bridge because I just don't like the risks. You get only 3db more headroom for a lot more risk with a ported sub this is definitely not a concern.

 

[ARES24]

I'm sold, simplifying