RBH Sound Signature Reference 8300-SE/R Loudspeaker Review

A

admin

Audioholics Robot
Staff member
The RBH Sound 8300 SE/R's are a wonderfully lush set of loudspeakers that can breathe some life into even the thinnest recordings. That lushness does not sacrifice clarity or control resulting in a very precise and tight set of loudspeakers with a substantial depth of sound and a detailed sonic presentation that is never etched, but rather has an effortless, natural musicality. If the RBH 8300 SE/Rs are in one's price range, they well deserve a look. Even if one is aiming for a more costly set of loudspeakers, there is a good chance that considering these speakers might yield just as much or more sonic satisfaction with potential cost savings to boot. As I would love to own a pair myself, but fall into that modest means category, I can wholeheartedly say Recommended!


Discuss "RBH Sound Signature Reference 8300-SE/R Loudspeaker Review " here. Read the article.
 
C

corey

Senior Audioholic
How about a high end shoot out: these 8300 SE/R's vs 661 SE/R's and a pair of $2k powered subs?
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Here we go again.

Just look at that crossover! A passive crossover at 100 Hz. Then look at cheap electrolytic caps back to back. Then take a look at that miserable iron cored choke in series with the bass drivers. Now add that amateurish construction and the mess is complete.

If I had a crossover that looked and was thrown together like that in one of my speakers, I would hang my head in shame.

Now they will run into the same problems I ran into years ago. That is just no way to conceive a speaker. You just can't get a defined bass doing that, and I abandoned it quickly. You can see the bass problems in the frequency response graphs.

The next problem is that I doubt the Fs of those drivers is 20 Hz. the null between the tuning peaks. So that is what is known as a very extended bass alignment to play the specs game. The problem is it produces a horrible sloppy bass. I have auditioned quite a few speakers like that recently, and its not pretty.

With the lower drivers operating below 100 Hz, it really is a two way with a sub. However a passive crossover has no business driving a sub!

I would not dream of donating that outfit nearly 10K!
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
Here we go again.

Just look at that crossover! A passive crossover at 100 Hz. Then look at cheap electrolytic caps back to back. Then take a look at that miserable iron cored choke in series with the bass drivers. Now add that amateurish construction and the mess is complete.

If I had a crossover that looked and was thrown together like that in one of my speakers, I would hang my head in shame.

Now they will run into the same problems I ran into years ago. That is just no way to conceive a speaker. You just can't get a defined bass doing that, and I abandoned it quickly. You can see the bass problems in the frequency response graphs.

The next problem is that I doubt the Fs of those drivers is 20 Hz. the null between the tuning peaks. So that is what is known as a very extended bass alignment to play the specs game. The problem is it produces a horrible sloppy bass. I have auditioned quite a few speakers like that recently, and its not pretty.

With the lower drivers operating below 100 Hz, it really is a two way with a sub. However a passive crossover has no business driving a sub!

I would not dream of donating that outfit nearly 10K!
I can't explain why, but I was expecting that you were going to comment....;)
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
Here we go again.

Just look at that crossover! A passive crossover at 100 Hz. Then look at cheap electrolytic caps back to back. Then take a look at that miserable iron cored choke in series with the bass drivers. Now add that amateurish construction and the mess is complete.

If I had a crossover that looked and was thrown together like that in one of my speakers, I would hang my head in shame.

Now they will run into the same problems I ran into years ago. That is just no way to conceive a speaker. You just can't get a defined bass doing that, and I abandoned it quickly. You can see the bass problems in the frequency response graphs.

The next problem is that I doubt the Fs of those drivers is 20 Hz. the null between the tuning peaks. So that is what is known as a very extended bass alignment to play the specs game. The problem is it produces a horrible sloppy bass. I have auditioned quite a few speakers like that recently, and its not pretty.

With the lower drivers operating below 100 Hz, it really is a two way with a sub. However a passive crossover has no business driving a sub!

I would not dream of donating that outfit nearly 10K!
No offense TLS Guy but some of your comments about loudspeakers on this forum often go unchecked as you are a self proclaimed expert. There are several others here similar to you, but I usually keep quite until the BS runs too deep.

The electrolytics are bypassed with polys if you read closer in the review. Its not evident in the photo. Good like finding a 200uF poly cap that is of reasonable size and cost that can fit in the crossover. Bypassing electrolytics is a great compromise to this problem as most manufacturers tend to do. They placed two 400uF 100V caps in series which halves the total capacitance, but doubles the working voltage to accommodate high power amps without blowing up. The bypass cap is a very high end Solen which again isn't clear in the photo.

The choke on the woofer is a 6 mH low DCR and has a power rating of 500 Watts with low saturation so again you simply apply a absolute that all iron cores must be bad. For midrange drivers and tweeters I tend to agree but using them for bass drivers where the values often get large are an understandble application. A choke this value in an air core would be much larger and have more resistive losses thus you would lose damping which is critical for the bass frequencies. So if the steel core isn't distorting or saturating, then why change it to something costlier, larger and potentially less performing?

BTW, you fail to mention the crossover is point to point soldered and not slapped onto a PC board. Not only is this more labor intensive and costly but its better from a performance standpoint.

Every listening session I have heard on these speakers is far from sloppy bass. Of course your ideal speaker appears to be a B&W Nautilus or some DIY line array where every driver has its own crossover. There is no accounting for taste and that is your perogative if that is what floats your boat. But to say that these speakers are a crappy design is very ignorant and in your case arrogant b/c to an unfamiliar reader, it sounds like you are correct.

Every designer has choices to make when building products which include trade offs in size, budget, etc. That is part of the art and what differentiates between a stellar product and a mediocre one.

The 100Hz crossover is a very shallow slope and the mids play down low in frequency which gives that very tight perception of bass that David and myself have noticed. Wilson does very similar things in their speakers as well for example. This works great if your mids can handle it which in this case their drivers can.

My T30-LSE towers for example utilize no passive crossover at all in the bass drivers and this is from the same company. It all depends on the product design and how well the system plays as a whole. Every design is different and you have to do what is right for that particular application.

Hmm maybe in the future we should bypass the whole review process and just send you pictures of the product with specs so we can get your expert opinion on how the speaker sounds :) Come to think of it, maybe I should do that myself and save the back strain.
 
Soundman

Soundman

Audioholic Field Marshall
Hey TLS Guy,
Have you auditioned these speakers????? OK nuff said. :)
 
majorloser

majorloser

Moderator
Excellent review!

I can see from now on who needs to be doing more AH reviews.
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Samurai
I've never heard these, and I'm no build expert. It seems I don't even know how to read a chart. TLS-Guy says they can't make good sound, you say they have good sound, and both parties give support I don't understand. Here's my question:

I looked at the SPL-vs-Freq chart. Now I remembered my mistake from before, that the room effects the speaker: but you've got a near-field that you say is intended to avoid that.

Using 3db as the threshold of audibility, the chart looks erratic. There's a 10db spike between 40Hz and 80Hz, a 10db drop somewhere between 250 and 300, another somewhere around 1400Hz, and more than a dozen >5db ridges and troughs.

What would a "not flat" speaker look like?
 
M

mardelgo

Junior Audioholic
I am with TLS Guy on this one, it is a $9700 speaker :eek:, and there is a made in china radioshack 2 cents connector :eek::eek:

By mardelgo at 2009-12-14
I will not use this type of connector not even in my car stereo (and my car is a 1994 Daewoo….)
I can not believe some one will defend the use of low quality parts for ANY reason in a $9700 speaker. For me, the crossover components, speaker cable, and even the speaker terminals are unacceptable for this price point. I thought that at this price was all about little details, the best components and passion for make a great speaker.
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
I've never heard these, and I'm no build expert. It seems I don't even know how to read a chart. TLS-Guy says they can't make good sound, you say they have good sound, and both parties give support I don't understand. Here's my question:

I looked at the SPL-vs-Freq chart. Now I remembered my mistake from before, that the room effects the speaker: but you've got a near-field that you say is intended to avoid that.

Using 3db as the threshold of audibility, the chart looks erratic. There's a 10db spike between 40Hz and 80Hz, a 10db drop somewhere between 250 and 300, another somewhere around 1400Hz, and more than a dozen >5db ridges and troughs.

What would a "not flat" speaker look like?
The danger with publishing measurements is the reader almost never has the skills to properly look at the measurement and understand what is happening. The summed nearfield response is of the bass drivers spliced with the 1 meter response of the tweeter. Perhaps we should have smoothed it to the nth degree or increase the Y-axis to 120dB like most magazines do so you get a pretty graph. Honestly, I thought our readers were a bit smarter than that and preferred a more honest and accurate approach.

See the attached graph where I have applied 1/3rd octave smoothing so you get a nice smooth graph.

I will not use this type of connector not even in my car stereo (and my car is a 1994 Daewoo….)
I can not believe some one will defend the use of low quality parts for ANY reason in a $9700 speaker. For me, the crossover components, speaker cable, and even the speaker terminals are unacceptable for this price point. I thought that at this price was all about little details, the best components and passion for make a great speaker.
The speaker cable is 14AWG twisted pair. I don't believe it was soaked in kosher chicken fat or blessed by a rabi, but it is of sufficient gauge and the twists help for noise immunity as well. As for the crimp connectors, I am not a huge fan of them either but they are widely used in loudspeakers. They are the easiest way to join two connection points while also allowing for servicing should a crossover need to be replaced. Provided the manufacturer crimped them down tightly, I am not sure why anyone would care other than they aren't very aesthetically pleasing. I suppose if you plan on taking your speakers apart and displaying apart instead of listening to them, that could be a problem.

Honestly I am quite surprised by some of the comments in this thread. There are a lot of people judging the product without ever hearing it. I guess if that makes you happy more power to you. I will not entertain these comments any further but I hope I helped to clarify many of the misconceptions posted herein.
 

Attachments

krzywica

krzywica

Audioholic Samurai
The danger with publishing measurements is the reader almost never has the skills to properly look at the measurement and understand what is happening. The summed nearfield response is of the bass drivers spliced with the 1 meter response of the tweeter. Perhaps we should have smoothed it to the nth degree or increase the Y-axis to 120dB like most magazines do so you get a pretty graph. Honestly, I thought our readers were a bit smarter than that and preferred a more honest and accurate approach.

See the attached graph where I have applied 1/3rd octave smoothing so you get a nice smooth graph.



The speaker cable is 14AWG twisted pair. I don't believe it was soaked in kosher chicken fat or blessed by a rabi, but it is of sufficient gauge and the twists help for noise immunity as well. As for the crimp connectors, I am not a huge fan of them either but they are widely used in loudspeakers. Provided the manufacturer crimped them down tightly, I am not sure why anyone would care other than they aren't very aesthetically pleasing. I suppose if you plan on taking your speakers apart and displaying apart instead of listening to them, that could be a problem.

Honestly I am quite surprised by some of the comments in this thread. There are a lot of people judging the product without ever hearing it. I guess if that makes you happy more power to you. I will not entertain these comments any further but I hope I helped to clarify many of the misconceptions posted herein.
Thanks for the review Gene. I have heard a few RBH products in the past and they have all been stellar. I have their dual 8" inwall sub installed in my parents den with a Crown amp that I found thrown out and I repaired. I think it sounds outstanding for their needs.

It was based on this experience that I purchased my EMP speakers as I normally would NEVER do this without hearing them first. But the combination of the stellar deal, past experiences with RBH, and the review here (by you if I remember correctly) that lead me to take the plunge, which I surely do not regret. I contacted EMP about the center channel issue I was having and they were prompt in returning my call and ensuring I was taken care of.

Although I would have to say at first glance the construction leaves a bit to be desired on a speaker at this price point, but at the same point you can't judge a book by its cover. Also keep in mind this is not an internet direct company, so you are going to hear these before they are ever popped open.
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
I've never heard these, and I'm no build expert. It seems I don't even know how to read a chart. TLS-Guy says they can't make good sound, you say they have good sound, and both parties give support I don't understand. Here's my question:

I looked at the SPL-vs-Freq chart. Now I remembered my mistake from before, that the room effects the speaker: but you've got a near-field that you say is intended to avoid that.

Using 3db as the threshold of audibility, the chart looks erratic. There's a 10db spike between 40Hz and 80Hz, a 10db drop somewhere between 250 and 300, another somewhere around 1400Hz, and more than a dozen >5db ridges and troughs.

What would a "not flat" speaker look like?
The measurements might be near-field, but I'm guessing that the room cannot be completely eliminated form the results. Jerry, I know that you wouldn't make such assumptions, but I wonder how many people buy speakers based on excellent anechoic FR and assume they'll get the same thing in their room.

In an untreated room and without equalization, I would call these results excellent.

I measured the response of my RC-10's in my living room, using a RS SPL meter, and my results were nowhere near the NRC results posted on "Soundstage". Mine looked like the Rocky Mountains!

So, maybe AH should emphasize the fact that "your mileage may vary", when they post FR during speaker reviews.
 
haraldo

haraldo

Audioholic Spartan
many other producers cross to the lower bass / sub at quite low frequencies, if you look to the Vienna Acustic range they all do the same in all their 3 way speakers... And to be honest, they sound incredulous... all of them

The Vienna Acoustics Mahler, passively crossed at around 70 - 90 Hz is absolutely shockingly good.... not a bad thing to cross passively to a sub :cool:

but active would probably be even better, I have never heard any of the RBH products, but.... some remarks in this thread is somewhat strange to me ;)
 
JerryLove

JerryLove

Audioholic Samurai
The measurements might be near-field, but I'm guessing that the room cannot be completely eliminated form the results. Jerry, I know that you wouldn't make such assumptions, but I wonder how many people buy speakers based on excellent anechoic FR and assume they'll get the same thing in their room.
According to the response from Gene, the deviations I'm seeing are normal in "flat" speakers and I'm not used to seeing them because the "+/- 3db" measurement is generally after averaging 1/3 octave plot-points.

I'm researching the norms now to better understand this process, though a discussion of it would belong on its own thread rather than here.

In an untreated room and without equalization, I would call these results excellent.
If the room is an unknown, it seems to me that there's no way to understand speaker response except relative to another speaker. It seems care was taken in one instance to minimize room interference: and I would be surprised to find out a reviewer had a completely untreated room.

Regardless: there's a bunch I'm working to learn, and likely will ask questions on; but not in this thread as they are not specifically about this speaker.
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
Jerry;

The general shape of the response curve of a speaker above the room transition region (usually 500Hz) is virtually identical to an anechoic response. The occasional high Q dips and bumps can usually be attributed to room or measurement artifacts. It takes experience to really understand the measured response of a speaker, which is a process even I am still learning myself.

Below 500Hz however, the room dominates the measurement hence why we spliced the nearfield response to get a more accurate representation. The best and most practical way to measure a speaker, aside from having an anechoic chamber, is to measure it outdoors. This is something we often do with subs, but tends to be impractical with large 120lb tower speakers especially since you need a wide open field to get away from boundary reflections and background noise.

Even when one measures in an anechoic chamber, it is not accurate below 60Hz b/c the chamber isn't big enough so you either have to develop a correction curve using an outdoor measurement, or splice an outdoor measurement (albeit a groundplane or placing the product on a long pole).

Recommended Reading on Measuring subwoofers
http://www.audioholics.com/education/loudspeaker-basics/subwoofer-measurement-part-1

We are working on a similar article about measuring loudspeakers. Stay tuned..
 
DavidW

DavidW

Audioholics Contributing Writer
The speaker cable is 14AWG twisted pair. I don't believe it was soaked in kosher chicken fat or blessed by a rabi, but it is of sufficient gauge and the twists help for noise immunity as well. As for the crimp connectors, I am not a huge fan of them either but they are widely used in loudspeakers. They are the easiest way to join two connection points while also allowing for servicing should a crossover need to be replaced. Provided the manufacturer crimped them down tightly, I am not sure why anyone would care other than they aren't very aesthetically pleasing. I suppose if you plan on taking your speakers apart and displaying apart instead of listening to them, that could be a problem.

Honestly I am quite surprised by some of the comments in this thread. There are a lot of people judging the product without ever hearing it. I guess if that makes you happy more power to you. I will not entertain these comments any further but I hope I helped to clarify many of the misconceptions posted herein.
Gene,

It sounds like some, those who are unduly concerned about what the internal wiring looks like, may also be interested in some $10,000+ speaker cables.

You know the kind that impart magical purity to the music that can only come from mystical dielectrics hitherto unknown to man, and which levitate on their own so one does not have to bother with speaker cable chairs.

You really ought to carry some in the Audioholics store, because you are missing a golden opportunity to cater to those who believe.
 
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AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
One of these days, I've got to audition a pair of those RBH flaghship models.

I am definitely not an expert, but I love the sound of my speakers, which have built-in active subwoofers.

I assume the RBH's flagship models also have built-in subwoofers, except that the amps are external.

Perhaps one of these days, Audioholics might test drive the Def Tech BP7000SC.

And if Gene does not like the BP7000SC, I would have no choice but to sell them and get the RBH.:D

In the meantime, I better save up some cash in case that day should arrive.:D
 
GO-NAD!

GO-NAD!

Audioholic Spartan
According to the response from Gene, the deviations I'm seeing are normal in "flat" speakers and I'm not used to seeing them because the "+/- 3db" measurement is generally after averaging 1/3 octave plot-points.

I'm researching the norms now to better understand this process, though a discussion of it would belong on its own thread rather than here.

If the room is an unknown, it seems to me that there's no way to understand speaker response except relative to another speaker. It seems care was taken in one instance to minimize room interference: and I would be surprised to find out a reviewer had a completely untreated room.

Regardless: there's a bunch I'm working to learn, and likely will ask questions on; but not in this thread as they are not specifically about this speaker.

I certainly have much to learn myself. But, if I've learned anything over the past couple of years, it's that I wouldn't expect anechoic chamber readings to be repeated in a regular room. Even if it's well-treated, I doubt that it would be possible.

I have no idea if the room was treated or not. It's just that if I did get these results in an untreated room, I'd be very pleased.
 
AJinFLA

AJinFLA

Banned
Gene, I'm just glad that I'm not the only one who should leave trim taping and household painting to professionals :).
Looking forward to your measurements article.
 

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