10 Things about Audio Amplifiers You've Always Wanted to Know

A

admin

Audioholics Robot
Staff member
Alan Lofft, Axiom Audio's Resident Expert, took a series of the most commonly asked questions he received about amplifiers, and transformed his answers into an informative editorial. In this article you will find answers to the importance of amplifier weight and how it relates to quality, how an amplifier works, what the different classes of amplifiers are (ie. class A, A/B, D, etc), and the most important attributes of amplifiers that govern their real world performance.


Discuss "10 Things about Audio Amplifiers You've Always Wanted to Know" here. Read the article.
 
jiggahits

jiggahits

Enthusiast
How powerful is it really?

I just finished reading the article and I have a question I have never been able to find an answer to: If a class D amplifier is rated at 100 wpc and is roughly 90% efficeint, and a A/B amp is rated at 200 wpc being about 50% efficeint, does that mean that the power output to the speakers will be nearly the same? (90 wpc vs 100 wpc) :confused:

Thanks!
 
Adam

Adam

Audioholic Jedi
Welcome to the forum!

I'll go out on a limb here, but I'm pretty sure about this. The rated power is the amount of power that the amp is capable of delivering to a load. So, a 100 wpc amp can deliver 100 wpc. A less efficient amp would use more power to do that and dissipate more heat.
 
Stripes

Stripes

Full Audioholic
Welcome to the forum!

I'll go out on a limb here, but I'm pretty sure about this. The rated power is the amount of power that the amp is capable of delivering to a load. So, a 100 wpc amp can deliver 100 wpc. A less efficient amp would use more power to do that and dissipate more heat.
I agree, a class A rated watt will be the same as a class D rated watt
 
J

jostenmeat

Audioholic Spartan
If I'm right, my integrated is A class + B class, my m-ch amp is A/B, and my sub is D.

All I am missing are C, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, and Z! :p
 
3db

3db

Audioholic Slumlord
I agree, a class A rated watt will be the same as a class D rated watt
A watt is a watt regardless of class. These ratings are at teh output stage of the amplifier which is ANALOG and regardless of class. I think the question is, which design is more effiecient in delivering that watt to the speakers? That would be class D.

Very basic amplifier theorey: (excluding Class D)

All amplifier require a DC bias or voltage to turn them on. Without that DC bias, putting an input signal to the amplifier will result in "zereo output". Thats one of the reasons why we need a power supply.

The 2nd reason a power supply is needed:
The amplfier output (transistor level) is connected across the ground and the power supply rail volatges. While the amplifier is off, there is no current flow. Assume the transitor is biased and ready to conduct. Now the music signal is applies to the amplifier input. This input is a low level signal such as the output of a CD (low beiing relative to the output of the amplifer). The transistor starts to conduct and there is current flow thru the output stage of the transistor. How much current flow depends on the strength of the input signal. The stronger the input signal, the more the transistor turns on and more it conducts. The weaker the signal, the weaker the transitor turns on thus allowing less current thru the device. In essessence, a small signal at the transistor input will control a rather large current thru the output of the transistor. Its analogous to a hose on a fire hydrant. How far you open the hydrant is analogous to how much input signal you feed the transistor. If you open the hydrant alot, you get a huge amount of water rushing out, open the hydrant a little and you get very little water out.

Assume now that the power supply is actually a dam, a small dam..and the output capbaility of our hydrant if left unchecked, it can drain the resavoir dry in less than a millisecond. If the resavoir is almost empty and teh tap gets opened all the way, you won't get anymore increase in output from that hydrant. Same thing as a power supply. If the outputs of the transisitor are trying to consume more pwer than the power suplly can source, than the amplifier starts to clip because its not properly biased anymore. its potential rated voltage/current swing is reduced to the point where it acts like a switch and just turns on loosing the ability to follow the input signal. This desciption is not a 100% accurate but it will give you the basics of how a transistor amplifier works.
 
F

fmw

Audioholic Ninja
I just finished reading the article and I have a question I have never been able to find an answer to: If a class D amplifier is rated at 100 wpc and is roughly 90% efficeint, and a A/B amp is rated at 200 wpc being about 50% efficeint, does that mean that the power output to the speakers will be nearly the same? (90 wpc vs 100 wpc) :confused:

Thanks!
No, the more efficient amplifier will use less electrical power to produce each watt of output power. It will also generate less heat.
 
F

fmw

Audioholic Ninja
Personally, I don't really like the idea of calling a class D amp "digital." While the bias switching works in a digital fashion, the term makes people think that the amplifier operates in the digital domain. But it is an analog device. Othewise I think the article is pretty good.
 
Midcow2

Midcow2

Banned
energy conversion effciency

I just finished reading the article and I have a question I have never been able to find an answer to: If a class D amplifier is rated at 100 wpc and is roughly 90% efficeint, and a A/B amp is rated at 200 wpc being about 50% efficeint, does that mean that the power output to the speakers will be nearly the same? (90 wpc vs 100 wpc) :confused:

Thanks!
Ideally the best you can get is 100% efficiency in any form of energy conversion.

Power out / power in * 100 = percent efficiency

Most of the ineffciency to due to conversion to heat energy instead of elctrical energy.

In your example The class d with 100 wpc at 90% has approximately 111 wpc input. the extra 11 wpc is typically lost through heat energy.


The A/B amp at 200 wpc and 50% efficiency has 400 wpc input. the 200 lost wpc is converted into heat.; a lot hotter.
 
Biggiesized

Biggiesized

Senior Audioholic
This was a great article. I'm still trying to learn as much as I can about amps and this tackled every question I had.

Fantastic!
 
davidtwotrees

davidtwotrees

Audioholic General
I thought there was a touch of pushing the new digital amp technology, but otherwise it was excellent and informative
 
K

kaiser_soze

Audioholic Intern
Not the correct answer

The question that Midcow2 asked was not answered correctly.

If amplifier X is rated at 100 wpc and amplifier Y rated at 200 wpc, then assuming that these ratings are both based on the same distortion level, amplifier Y will deliver twice as much power to the speakers than will amplifier X, at that specified level of distortion, regardless of the class of each amp or its efficiency.

The difference in efficiency will reflect in the amount of power consumed relative to the amount delivered to the speakers (and relative to the amount dissipated internally). In an amplifier that is 90% efficient, 90 out of every 100 Watts consumed will be delivered to the speaker. The total power consumed is 100/90 = 1.11 times greater than the amount delivered to the speaker. To deliver 100 Watts to the speaker, 111 Watts will be consumed in total (.9 x 111 = 100). In an amplifier that is 50% efficient, 200 Watts will need to be consumed in order to deliver 100 Watts to the speaker.

When the 200 Watt, less efficient amp is consuming 200 Watts and delivering 100 Watts to the speaker, and the 100 Watt, more efficient amp is consuming only 111 Watts and is likewise delivering 100 Watts to the speaker, amplifier distortion will not be the same for the two amps, because per the distortion ratings that were given in the question, the 200 Watt amp will be able to deliver twice that much power to the speaker before it exhibits that same standard level of distortion that the 100 Watt amp does when it is delivering 100 Watts to the speaker.

Note also that wheres it may seem that the amp with the 200 Watt rating is twice as good as the amp with the 100 Watt rating, "twice as good" is not a substantive concept. The difference is 3.01 dB. The oft-heard notion of "twice as loud" is similarly not well-defined. Who is to say that when one sound seems "twice as loud" to one person, that it will also seem "twice as loud" to another person? It typically takes at least a .5 dB change in volume before most people would detect any difference at all. Modern amplifiers and receivers that use digital volume controls typically change the volume in steps of .5 dB, and when you observe on the display that the change is exactly .5 dB, you can barely tell that the volume has changed at all. The bottom line is that a 200 Watt amplifier is stronger than a 100 Watt amplifier by a modestly useful amount. If you want to get a better sense of the difference, find a modern digital receiver and turn up the volume about as loud as you can stand it, then turn it up some more until the display indicates that the volume has increased by 3 dB. That difference is the difference between a 100 Watt amp and a 200 Watt amp.

Note, finally, that the vast majority of the power that is actually delivered to the speaker is dissipated as heat in the voice coil (and also in the crossover). Speakers require gobs of power from the amp because they are horribly inefficient, way less efficient even than most any amplifier. And the difference in speaker efficiency varies considerably from one speaker to the next. As a general rule, there is a trade off between the sound quality of a speaker and its efficiency. Speakers that sound exceptionally good will often be more than 3 dB less efficient than typical speakers. Often the difference will be 5 dB or more. The difference in speaker efficiency can easily overcome the difference in amplifier efficiency. If you connect the 200 Watt amp to a speaker that is 3 dB less efficient than the speaker to which the 100 Watt amp is connected, then both amplifiers will hit the ceiling at the same actual volume that you hear, i.e., SPL.

Expensive amplifiers are generally a waste of money. As long as they are not driven into clipping, amplifier distortion is typically one or two orders of magnitude less than the distortion in the speaker. Non-linear distortion is routinely quoted for amplifiers, but never quoted for speakers, and rarely measured in reviews. This is all a throw back to the old vacuum tube days. If you like your music at deafening levels, then it can be important to pay attention to speaker efficiency, since you could end up needing a more powerful amplifier, the incremental cost for which will likely be greater than it ought to be. The best buys in standalone amplifiers are found at the musician stores, but they often don't come with the desired form factor and cosmetics, and they often don't have the right sort of inputs and outputs, and they don't come in the package that we know as the A/V receiver. But if you are just looking for a high power stereo amplifier and don't care about the aesthetics, the musician's store is your friend. Most people in most home environments who listen to music as opposed to car crashes and explosions of various sorts do not need to be concerned about the efficiency of the speaker, because most any modern amplifier of ordinary quality will drive even the most inefficient modern speaker to very high volume levels without the slightest amount of strain.
 
K

kaiser_soze

Audioholic Intern
The tenth "thing" is not correct.

The tenth "thing" is not correct, for each of two distinct reasons.

Clipping alters the waveform, and consequently, can vary the way in which the power is distributed between the individual drivers. It does not increase the total power. It is therefore apparent that if it damages the speaker, it is because power that would otherwise have gone to one driver instead goes to another driver. Suppose you have a two-way speaker. If the two drivers are crossed over in the vicinity of 650 Hz, i.e., the ten octaves are evenly divided between the two drivers, then if the power that is otherwise delivered to driver A is diverted to driver B, the power delivered to driver B consequentially increases by 3 dB.

A 3 dB increase in power is not much in the greater scheme of things, and this is the second reason why the tenth "thing" is not correct. When a speaker burns out, it is simply because it was allowed to draw more current that it could handle.

The first reason why the tenth "thing" is not correct, is that even if clipping were the "cause" per se of the voice coil burning out, it would not be because the signal gets converted to "an almost pure DC signal". To understand how the spectral distribution of the signal is altered by clipping, you have to apply a Fourier Transform. If you do this, you find that what happens is that the quasi-random spectral distribution is replaced by an orderly spectral distribution, where the quasi-random high-frequency components are replaced by the 1st, 2nd, 3rd ... harmonic components of the lowest frequency in the original signal. This generally includes components higher in frequency than were present in the original signal, and thus a shift in spectral content from low frequency to high frequency. As such, the tweeter is more at risk than the woofer. But again, the total power does not increase, and because the low-frequency content is not replaced entirely by high-frequency content, it is apparent that the increase in high-frequency power is going to be far less than 3 db.

Bottom line, the notion of speakers being destroyed by amplifiers insufficient in power is a myth. When speakers are destroyed, it is because the voltage applied to the speaker terminals was increased and thereby allowed the speaker to draw more power than it is capable of handling. This is more likely to occur with a high-power amplifier than with a low-power amplifier. In fact, it is not at all likely to occur with a low-power amplifier. The notion of speakers being destroyed by amplifiers insufficient in power is a myth.
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
Kaiser;

You raise some valid points but also realize tweeters typically can't handle a lot of power to begin with so if you present them with a constant clipped signal of day 50% duty cycle or longer (IE. Squarewave), it doesn't take much to fry one. We aren't concerned with increased power via clipping, but instead a constant power presented to the driver, namely the tweeter.

I suggest reading our articles on Loudspeaker Power handling:


Loudspeaker Power Handling P1

Loudspeaker Power Handling P2

Loudspeaker Power Handling P3 Test Results
 
P

peterlonz

Audiophyte
Class D = "Digital"- No that's wrong

About time this author was consistent:
Please stop referring to Class D amps as "Digital".
There is wide agreement that a more accurate description & one that I see used at least 80% of the time is "PWM"
That is accurate & descriptive.
Digital means nothing except it starts with a "D".
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
Interesting that Audioholics is still trying to push that Axiom amp here in this article against B&O class d "Ice" amps still.... Seems to me Axioms amps kinda fell off the radar after falling on their face so many times... RMK went through 3 of them and finally gave up, so many people had the same problems and discussion of them dropped off pretty quick with reliability problems... :rolleyes:

I would think that it would be pretty important that a piece of equipment being touted as being so fantastic, would be completely issue free or much more reliable over the long haul.

I will give credit to Axiom for having such great customer support to take care of such issues, but IMO it wasn't really ready for prime time...
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
Not a bad article, although i've already been sold on class D prior with this article:

http://www.psaudio.com/ps/knowledge/how-does-a-class-d-digital-amplifier-work/


But on that note, until I find a 180w RMS x 3ch class D amp for under 1000 dollars, i think I'll stick to looking at less efficient designs unfortunately. 4000 dollars for that axiom amp... it may have a demographic(although in those type of price ranges I usually think high-end Brick and Mortar), but that doesn't include a college student like myself. Which is strange, because Axioms tend to generally be on the affordable side of things.

No, I'm more interested in something like a trio of class A/B/G Outlaw 2200s, or a class A/B Emotiva XPA3s because of cost-to-performance ratio, as much as I'd like more efficiency.

The only class D amp i'll entertain for the time being is maybe an iQube for my headphones.
 
Last edited:
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
Interesting that Audioholics is still trying to push that Axiom amp here in this article against B&O class d "Ice" amps still.... Seems to me Axioms amps kinda fell off the radar after falling on their face so many times... RMK went through 3 of them and finally gave up, so many people had the same problems and discussion of them dropped off pretty quick with reliability problems...
who is pushing the Axiom Amp? Two of my review samples blew up when I tested them which was noted in the review. Axiom won't even list my review on their website b/c they were so displeased with the results. I am still waiting for them to produce a bulletproof version of this amp b/c I feel it does have great potential, albeit a pricey solution.

I posted this article for them b/c I thought it was a good laymen article on amplifiers. Alan Lofft is no engineer but I thought it would be a good idea to take things down a notch for once to reach a broader audience. Now all of the sudden people are critiquing it 2 years after it was published :confused:

We have plenty of other more tech based Class D amplifier articles for all of you propellerheads such as:

The Truth About Class D Amplifers

Switching Amplifiers Technology and the Issues
 
Mike Ronesia

Mike Ronesia

Junior Audioholic
who is pushing the Axiom Amp? Two of my review samples blew up when I tested them which was noted in the review. Axiom won't even list my review on their website b/c they were so displeased with the results. I am still waiting for them to produce a bulletproof version of this amp b/c I feel it does have great potential, albeit a pricey solution.

I posted this article for them b/c I thought it was a good laymen article on amplifiers. Alan Lofft is no engineer but I thought it would be a good idea to take things down a notch for once to reach a broader audience. Now all of the sudden people are critiquing it 2 years after it was published :confused:

We have plenty of other more tech based Class D amplifier articles for all of you propellerheads such as:

The Truth About Class D Amplifers

Switching Amplifiers Technology and the Issues
Good to hear. I read so few, less then stellar reviews in the AV industry that it's hard to really buy into them. That being said I realize most of these products work as advertised and it comes down to features, price and aesthetics most of the time.
 

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