Modeled the Infinty Reference 1260W

jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
My wife and kids are going out of town tomorrow so I think it's time for me to give this a run. Right now I have it in a 1.5 cubed box sealed... and it sucks.. in every single way.

Do you happen to remember what dimensions you used to cut the port pieces? or even the box for that matter. I can do the math if I need too, but if you already had it handy. Thanks.

Bruce
It shouldn't suck you are getting 99dB at 20Hz. Hardly suck territory.

For ported it's an entirely a different box.
 
AudioSQ

AudioSQ

Enthusiast
I am not getting anything near 99db @ 20hz. In fact it drops drastically at 40, gives a weak 30 to 40 and I'd say almost inaudible under 30.. and it sounds like sloppy farts at even moderate volume. To be fair it is in a crappy box. Although I believe it to be an air tight box it is poorly braced and that's obviously coloring the sound a good bit, it's definitely audible. I also built it 10 years ago so my recall of it being 1.5 cubic feet could be off give or take .25 cubes. There could be other contributing factors to its poor sound such as using the high inputs instead of LFE or a number of other things that I hope will be remedied when I buy a receiver, but this weekend I intend to fix the box part of the issue.

Why wrap the Roxul in fabric?
 
D

dpc

Audioholic Intern
I don't think I saved the port measurements, but I basically just cut the top, bottom, and sides to the dimensions listed in the pdf and calculated what the dimensions of the port would need to be based on those sizes.

I don't have any real way of measuring it, but from listening to test tones I think the pair I built starts to drop off somewhere around 25hz, but I do seem to get some decent output at 20hz. I don't have any issues in the 30-40hz range, I'm getting great output in that range.

I've not had any issues with it sounding sloppy either, in fact it was a nice improvement from the Klipsch RW-10D sub it replaced in sound quality and it plays much lower.
 
AudioSQ

AudioSQ

Enthusiast
I'm finally getting around to this.. My awesome 30 year old table saw and it's rickety guide have caused some measurements too be off. I'm assuming it won't matter much if the port is off 1/16th or 1/8th of an inch here and there?
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
I wouldn't worry about it... Just make sure there are no leaks.
 
AudioSQ

AudioSQ

Enthusiast
I'll caulk my face off... as far as bracing, if I follow a similar method to the pictures on page 3, is that enough bracing? It doesn't look like much bracing compared to some, but is it enough?
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
For my build I cut the port out of single piece of ply and used that as one brace and then another t-shaped piece for going the other way.
 
AudioSQ

AudioSQ

Enthusiast
I'm unfamiliar with using rockwool.. why that over poly? Is its purpose similar to poly or convoluted foam? I already have both of those lying around, although I could buy some rockwool if the reasons are good. Or is it just to use something different? How much of a flare for the port? Does it really matter? Thanks!
 
A

austindub

Audiophyte
Are you guys taking into account the displacement of the driver when building the enclosure? I ask because I am building two sealed enclosures that will house two front firing 1260's each. I would like 1.5 cubic feet per woofer as some others have done (please let me know if there is a better sealed size though... mostly music listener). I plan on bracing it well and taking that into account when measuring the internal volume. I can't find anything about the driver's displacement. Should I just build it to 1.5 with bracing accounted for or do they need to be a little bigger to account for driver displacement as well?

PS - going to drive these with a Crown XLS2000 which will give each tower 1050 watts at 2ohms... not planning on driving them with all available power, just wanted the extra head room.
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
You just need a 1.5 cubic foot box. Driver displacement is already taken into account.
 
A

austindub

Audiophyte
Thanks Jinjuku. Should start the build in a couple of weeks. I'll post my impressions and some build pics (if the enclosures come out decent :D)
 
AudioSQ

AudioSQ

Enthusiast
This might be a dumb question, but I'm ok with looking stupid. Instead of the Roxul, could I just put a pillow in there? The box is big enough, could I just buy a large poly pillow at Walmart and put it inside the box still in the case to keep any poly from coming out the port? Thanks!
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
You just need a 1.5 cubic foot box. Driver displacement is already taken into account.
Did you ever build anything with the Kappa's you got? Interested to know if there is a noticeable difference. I've read they are a drop in replacement for the reference.
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
I've built the ported Kappa and the dual opposed Reference. I am going to do dual opposed Kappa's at some point.
 
AudioSQ

AudioSQ

Enthusiast
How well would this sub work down firing? And what effects would that have on the sound.. If it were firing right into a concrete floor? How far from the floor would it need to be? It would make the sub unreachable by the kids.
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
I doubt woofer sag would be an issue. So down fire away. Keep it about 6 inches or higher.
 
AudioSQ

AudioSQ

Enthusiast
For the flare, the pdf says 2 vent ends... do I do the long sides? The short sides? or does it mean I should flare all sides at both ends of the port? How much flare? Could I just sand the edges a bit with an electric sander? I don't have a router so.. thanks!
 
jinjuku

jinjuku

Moderator
For the flare, the pdf says 2 vent ends... do I do the long sides? The short sides? or does it mean I should flare all sides at both ends of the port? How much flare? Could I just sand the edges a bit with an electric sander? I don't have a router so.. thanks!
I think you will be fine with not rounding over the port ends.
 
AudioSQ

AudioSQ

Enthusiast
That's fair. I don't know much about vent air velocity and ports, but it looked like it modeled well in the PDF. I may round them out just a smidge to try and cover my inability to cut a good rectangular hole in the baffle.. Thanks!
 
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