JohnnieB

JohnnieB

Senior Audioholic
I need help finding a driver.

Needs to be able to go down to single digit frequencies with ease.

Will be played at lower volumes, 80 db is the most it will see.

Is anything like this available?
 
Sheep

Sheep

Audioholic Warlord


Sorry, couldn't resist.

We'll need to know WAAAYY more information before we can make an recommendations. Honestly you're not going to get it from one I think, and I'm pretty sure 80dB is too quite to even hear/detect single digit frequencies.

SheepStar
 
TheWarrior

TheWarrior

Audioholic Ninja
Single digit frequencies will not be heard. Even 20 hz is not heard (by most), its only felt and produced by electronic instruments or special effects. And yeah, at that low of volume, it is unlikely any set up you could purchase or construct would be able to accomplish that except maybe in a car where cabin gain could assist.
 
rojo

rojo

Audioholic Samurai
JohnnyB, look at this post. According to the manufacturer's model on their eBay auction, the Creative Sound Solutions SDX12 will reach 10 Hz around 95dB in a sealed 3ft³ enclosure with room gain at 500w. I just bought it, but it'll probably be a couple of weeks to a month before I can measure it. But maybe with a miniDSP and some creative eq you can accomplish what you want.

I'm curious. What content, other than sine sweeps, do you have that reaches single digit Hz? I only know of some Saint Saens organ music and War of the Worlds that delves into subsonics off the top of my head, but neither goes below 15Hz. There's a thread on AVS that links to some infrasonic electronica, but I don't think any of it goes below 12. Maybe whale song?
 
S

shadyJ

Speaker of the House
Staff member
There are plenty of drivers which can hit 80 dB in the single Hz. The question is, as was stated above, why would you want to? To sense anything in the single digits you would need a tremendous amount of SPL. I would guess well over 110 dB.
 
JohnnieB

JohnnieB

Senior Audioholic


Sorry, couldn't resist.

We'll need to know WAAAYY more information before we can make an recommendations. Honestly you're not going to get it from one I think, and I'm pretty sure 80dB is too quite to even hear/detect single digit frequencies.

SheepStar
LOL that was funny. :D
 
JohnnieB

JohnnieB

Senior Audioholic
I know everyone is trying to help. I always get excellent advice from you guys/gals. But i'm trying to keep the specifics to a minimum to get a broader response. I'm not sure exact size or budget yet.

Rojo, keep me posted please, I'm very interested to know how that sub runs out. PM me, Thanks.

Sheep, the RE Audio looks very good as well. It has a slightly lower Fs than the Ultra 5400 I was looking at.

My initial thought was if I can get a large enough driver, the surface area would make up for some loss of power handling. At that low of a frequency, distortion is not a major concern. The problem with this is it would probably not be very good at 20hz up. You are all probably thinking, wtf is this guy was trying to do? Its more of a see if it can be done type of thing. Who knows it might be a failure and the laughing stock of the audio community. Or it could be crazy genius. I'm certain some part of the latter is true. :D

One last question. Any good links on dual tuning a sub?
 
rojo

rojo

Audioholic Samurai
I'll make a build thread and post some in-room measurements once it's completed.

I've read somewhere that in a 1 to 3 cubic foot enclosure, you can add up to 1.5lbs of Poly-Fil per ft³ to simulate an internal volume increase up to around 30%. So a 2ft³ box with 3lbs. Poly-Fil will behave like a 2.6ft³ box. Too much Poly-Fil will have a negative effect, though.

With that in mind, whenever I've come across an interesting sub, I've used this calculator for a quick and dirty idea of what size box would be needed to get the Q I want (0.5). If it appeared to be in a sensible range, I used WinISD to model a little more thoroughly, heavily abusing Google to convert cubic feet to liters and back, inches to meters, and so on. Not sure whether this is the best way to shop, but I guess I'll find out in a week or two. :)

I looked at those RE Audio subs. It's hard to find a full set of T/S params on most of them. But the ones I did find, I didn't like how they modeled for HT use.

My second favorite was the Dayton Reference 12" HO DVC. It models nearly identically to the CSS I ultimately chose and indeed would've done well in a 2ft³ box, but it only has half the xmax (14mm) of the CSS (28mm).

The TC Sounds Epic 12 was my third choice, but judging from the reviews on parts-express they've had some QC issues.

I looked at the Peerless 835017, a ScanSpeak Discovery, and many other drivers. Ultimately, the CSS + BASH amp combo, along with an already-veneered and mostly assembled cabinet with clearance pricing, looked like a bargain to me.

If this didn't give you the information you were looking for, can you tell me what you mean by "dual tuning a sub"?
 
its phillip

its phillip

Audioholic Ninja
JapanDave on AVS has an awesome theater with mostly RE XXX 18s for subs.
Ricci had a giant ported XXX that holds the highest 10hz output recorded on data-bass.

I dunno if the driver would be a good fit for your needs though cuz I know nothing about modeling subs :D
 
Bryceo

Bryceo

Banned
The Re audio XXX subwoofer is a SPL woofer, that like lots of power and a big ported box they love lows also,
 
JohnnieB

JohnnieB

Senior Audioholic
Rojo, thanks again. Good information, links. What I mean by dual tuning is a port on both sides of the driver. I have a link to a podcast for a guy that did this, my understanding is that he got remarkable output from an 8 inch driver. Take that for what it's worth. If I can get the podcast or find a better link I'll post it.

phillip, I'm kind of in the same boat, a total newb at sub building. I do have a friend at work that has built several. He is a great sounding board for ideas, but all his builds were cookie cutter subs, pretty basic. I don't know if the RE would fit my wants either, but I'm pretty sure if it sounds remotely decent, I could sell it and go a different route.

I found a beringer 4000 watt for $360 that would push the RE perfectly. That's about $1300 for driver and amp. Not bad if it will go lower than the usual ID subs and hit as hard.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
I know everyone is trying to help. I always get excellent advice from you guys/gals. But i'm trying to keep the specifics to a minimum to get a broader response. I'm not sure exact size or budget yet.

Rojo, keep me posted please, I'm very interested to know how that sub runs out. PM me, Thanks.

Sheep, the RE Audio looks very good as well. It has a slightly lower Fs than the Ultra 5400 I was looking at.

My initial thought was if I can get a large enough driver, the surface area would make up for some loss of power handling. At that low of a frequency, distortion is not a major concern. The problem with this is it would probably not be very good at 20hz up. You are all probably thinking, wtf is this guy was trying to do? Its more of a see if it can be done type of thing. Who knows it might be a failure and the laughing stock of the audio community. Or it could be crazy genius. I'm certain some part of the latter is true. :D

One last question. Any good links on dual tuning a sub?
JonnieB: - Do you want to build a good sub, or a lousy one? You are heading to build one in the lousy category.

A speaker will not perform below Fs, and I don't care what anybody else posts. That is the practical limit, and it is actually in practice a little higher than F3.

So how to you get to a low F3. You make the cone heavy, which makes the driver insensitive. You make the suspension loose, which makes for a high Qts driver, which makes for lousy sound.

This RE driver is an object lesson. The Fs is 15.6 Hz. The sensitivity is 86.2 1 watt 1 meter. The Qts is 0.55.

Build it if you want, but a sub driver with those parameters would never be part of any system of mine.
 
crossedover

crossedover

Audioholic Chief
JonnieB: - Do you want to build a good sub, or a lousy one? You are heading to build one in the lousy category.

A speaker will not perform below Fs, and I don't care what anybody else posts. That is the practical limit, and it is actually in practice a little higher than F3.

So how to you get to a low F3. You make the cone heavy, which makes the driver insensitive. You make the suspension loose, which makes for a high Qts driver, which makes for lousy sound.

This RE driver is an object lesson. The Fs is 15.6 Hz. The sensitivity is 86.2 1 watt 1 meter. The Qts is 0.55.

Build it if you want, but a sub driver with those parameters would never be part of any system of mine.
All the builds I have seen with them are designed from about 30hz down to teens for ultra low bass, nothing really for mids.
 
rojo

rojo

Audioholic Samurai
Rojo, thanks again. Good information, links. What I mean by dual tuning is a port on both sides of the driver. I have a link to a podcast for a guy that did this, my understanding is that he got remarkable output from an 8 inch driver. Take that for what it's worth. If I can get the podcast or find a better link I'll post it.
So you know I'm about as much a rookie at DIY sub design as you. This advice probably ranges from somewhat inaccurate to completely harmful, but I offer it anyway. That's what the Internet is for, right?

Install WinISD. Input some Thiele-Small parameters. Be careful when adding drivers to the database. Pay attention to the units. Some parameters that are traditionally handled in inches or millimeters are expected to be input as a decimal value in meters.

When you get a sub modeled, you can play with the enclosure size and see what a different size enclosure does to the response curve (and Q if sealed). If you are playing with a vented enclosure, you can mess with port tuning to see how that changes the response curve as well. As an experiment, set a port tuning frequency. Play with the port diameter and the number of ports to see how the port length changes to meet your desired tuning. Also see what your changes do to the calculated air speed. The higher the speed, the more port chuff.

Anyway, regarding tuning multiple ports, I could be mistaken about this, but I'm pretty sure you won't realize any additional output with multiple ports. The most obvious advantage of having multiple ports is less chuffing. Some ID sub vendors also offer multiple ports as a way to tune a sub for different rooms by plugging / unplugging a port. I'm guessing the effect of plugging one of multiple ports is that the port's length then effectively becomes part of the enclosure, adding to the enclosure's internal volume; whereas the port's tube counts against the box internal volume when opened. Also, when the second of two ports is plugged, the first port gets a lower tuning frequency.

Just bear in mind that in a vented enclosure, a driver will quickly exceed its excursion limit and bottom out easily below its tuned port frequency. If you want single-digit frequency response, you'll most likely need a sealed enclosure.

Then again, this is all an awful lot of guessing from a neophyte. Let's hope Cunningham's Law holds true here.
 
JohnnieB

JohnnieB

Senior Audioholic
Thanks again everyone for the replies. DOC! I was beginning to think you fell ill, GOD forbid. Haven't heard from you in a while. When I started this thread, I posted some rather different requirements. I had reasons for this. Mostly, I didn't want the standard replies.

What I am really after is a sub that can go super low so I can get to the frequencies you can feel, but not hear. Yes it's true most people may not be able to hear below 20 hz, but I figure if a sub is good to 10 hz. It should be awesome at 17. Kind of like having headroom in an amp I suppose. But I also want a sub that will be more than capable for HT and music, especially music, even at lower levels when I don't want the music to be the only thing I can hear in the house. I'm not convinced I can get all of that out of the same sub. I could however be wrong. I certainly hope no one feels as tho I wasted their time, if so my humblest apologies, but as I stated I wanted something different from the usually recommended stuff.

With all that cleared up, where do I start. TLS, if this sub is a poor choice, what would you recommend and what type of enclosure. Budget is not an issue, although the higher the price tag, the longer it will take to complete. Size could be an issue if it gets too huge, but I'm willing to work with about anything. I will figure out how to make it look good in the room somehow. It kind of all has to come together, pros vs cons, as with any sub it seems.
 
TLS Guy

TLS Guy

Seriously, I have no life.
Thanks again everyone for the replies. DOC! I was beginning to think you fell ill, GOD forbid. Haven't heard from you in a while. When I started this thread, I posted some rather different requirements. I had reasons for this. Mostly, I didn't want the standard replies.

What I am really after is a sub that can go super low so I can get to the frequencies you can feel, but not hear. Yes it's true most people may not be able to hear below 20 hz, but I figure if a sub is good to 10 hz. It should be awesome at 17. Kind of like having headroom in an amp I suppose. But I also want a sub that will be more than capable for HT and music, especially music, even at lower levels when I don't want the music to be the only thing I can hear in the house. I'm not convinced I can get all of that out of the same sub. I could however be wrong. I certainly hope no one feels as tho I wasted their time, if so my humblest apologies, but as I stated I wanted something different from the usually recommended stuff.

With all that cleared up, where do I start. TLS, if this sub is a poor choice, what would you recommend and what type of enclosure. Budget is not an issue, although the higher the price tag, the longer it will take to complete. Size could be an issue if it gets too huge, but I'm willing to work with about anything. I will figure out how to make it look good in the room somehow. It kind of all has to come together, pros vs cons, as with any sub it seems.
The trouble is you are fixated on low F3. That will lead you astray. The most important parameter for any speaker is its sound quality. The crux of the error of your thinking is that "if a sub is good at 10 Hz, it will be awesome at 17 Hz." Almost certainly with a cone driver it will be lousy at 17 and above.

The most important parameter is the quality of the bass, especially that it be non resonant or close to it.

The other issue is that you don't have to get the F3 into the teens or single digits to feel bass. I don't use a sub, or sub drivers, but I can certainly feel bass with these speakers. In room F3 is almost exactly at 20 Hz. I have watched the opening night of the Proms several times now. I can feel the huge RAH organ on many occasions and the effect created is just the same as in the Albert Hall.

The problem comes in the home of getting bass out of a fairly small box. As I have so often pointed out, a speaker cone is a terrible and inefficient coupler to an acoustic space, and the larger the space the worse it is.

All closed boxes have a much higher F3 then driver Fs. So brute force becomes mandatory with Eq and high power. Even then if you pursue low F3 you still need a heavy cone and less efficiency and the spring (suspension) still has to be sloppy.

If you use a Qb4 vented enclosure, then you end up with horrid high Q "extended bass" alignments, rather then the optimal alignment. My advice is to never sacrifice bass extension for bass quality.

Now there are good reasons in physics why the pipes of an organ like the one on the RAH as so massive. It all has to do with filling the space evenly and cleanly at high spl.

Speakers are no different. However we live in small houses. Never the less, building speakers of the dimensions dictated by physics, and not building ones forced to perform by brute force, will always win the day. It all comes down to acoustic transformation. To perform optimally in the lowest octave, cone speakers need an acoustic transformer. The best options are pipes or horns.

To cut to the chase, for domestic purposes, a speaker system built round a driver with an Fs around 20 Hz and a Qts in the range of 0.3 to 0.4 is optimal. I personally think around 0.35 is the real sweet spot.

As you know some members have built subs, I have designed. They seem to really like them. I don't have to play the numbers game and get the lowest F3. However in practice, I bet mine sound as if they have a better bass than a commercial offering designing for lowest F3.
 
Steve81

Steve81

Audioholics Five-0
The other issue is that you don't have to get the F3 into the teens or single digits to feel bass.
Outside of LLT aficionados, I don't know that anybody is really aiming for a native F3 into the single digits. The most common way that I've seen to achieve single digit bass reproduction is via multiple relatively capable sealed box subs / IB subs ala JapanDave's system that was posted earlier. In that case, the idea is to let cabin gain largely offset the usual 12dB/octave roll of the sealed sub (or IB) vs trying to actually build a sealed box sub with a native F3 <20Hz.
 
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