Identifying Legitimately High Fidelity Loudspeakers: Myths & Facts about Cabinets

gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
More About Cabinet Bracing & Reducing Resonance Amplitude

I spoke a bit about this topic with David Waratuke (our resident Structural Engineer) and Mark Sanfilipo (our Loudspeaker Guru). Both are degreed engineers. David actually designs buildings for a living and knows full well that you don't want to stand inside of a building that isn't stiff.

Here is are some excerpts about this topic form our exchange:
The long and short of it is that bracing the cabinet is stiffening, obviously. What comes from that is the natural frequency goes up and the displacement under a given magnitude of loading should be reduced. The lower amplitude movement translates to lower movement of air and thereby lower SPL, in general. The only way I can see this NOT happening is if the braces aren’t cross coupled and simply adding mass without stiffness. If you brace a cabinet panel to the point where its resonance spectrum starts somewhere above & beyond the HF limit of a drivers bandwidth, then the panel will not resonate. It won't resonate because given the above stated conditions, the mechanical system isn't being fed any energy within the frequency range needed to trigger mechanical resonance. Basic physics.

What the Axiom study does not make clear is the geometry of the cabinet or the braces. How stiff are the braces in an absolute sense and relative to the side wall, how well are they attached to the side wall, are they uniform in size and/or spacing? In other words, it is not clear if the braces stiff enough and well enough coupled to the side walls to make a significant difference to the actual modal behavior. It might be possible with a uniform or nonuniform arrangement of bracing that makes one or more of the subpanels match resonant frequency with another panel, say with the top/bottom panel, and that might increase output.

It is also not clear, but likely, that a single point or a small number of points are measured. The mode shapes of the panel are likely to be fairly complex and increasingly complex with the addition of the bracing. Limited information such as this would not describe the overall effect of the entire panel with and without bracing where complex response would produce canceling effects. Although it would be a poor representation of the response, the best place to measure to approximate the response would be the centerpoint of the panel/subpanel, the likeliest location to capture maxima/minima. If the same point is measured in both cases the change in relative proximity to the boundaries and braces would give results that are not representative of the behavior.

Also note, the results are reported as accelerations, and although differentially related, SPL is a function displacement, so the plot could be viewed as misleading. Regardless, all of the measurements are reported as below their established threshold of hearing which we also have to wonder how they actually derived that in itself.

Some more questions that come to mind:
• First, did they figure masking into the curve they applied in the graphs as the upper boundary? Second, in comparing accelerometer data to an overlaid dB spl plot, isn't that something akin to comparing apples & oranges? (That's why you need to separate accelerometer data and the dB spl data)
• Last, why no mention of the contribution to panel vibration made by the driver bolted into said panel? Owing to the far closer mechanical impedance match between the driver frame/panel, it’s a far more efficient mechanism for transferring energy than the air/panel combination.
These days, measuring the acoustical behavior of a cabinet panel is comparatively easy, using something like the B&K 3599 microphone rig. From the sound intensity data generated, the dB spl plots of the panel can be derived.
In further discussions with Philip Bamberg (one of the authors of our article about Loudspeaker bracing and also a degreed Electrical and Mechanical Engineer), he points out that:

Panel amplitude should increase with the inverse square of the frequency. (Ie half the frequency is 4x panel amplitude, for constant SPL.) In other words, proper bracing significantly reduces excursion amplitude, which reduces SPL.

I recently read a design guide that structural engineers use to control floor vibrations David Waratuke sent me. Of note, energetic rhythmic activity, such as dancing or aerobic exercise, the only real solution is to add stiffness to the system to control the amplitude of the floor response. In many ways, a framed floor is similar to a braced cabinet wall, there is an overall panel, the cabinet wall/floor slab, and an array of local stiffeners, cabinet bracing/floor beam, that control the system.

Also interesting is the that research that this is based upon draws heavily from work done by the Nation Research Council Canada. So there are folks properly applying the research of that data to make sound (no pun intended) decisions.
 
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Philip Bamberg

Philip Bamberg

Audioholics Approved Vendor
Let's assume that there is no panel movement around its perimeter, where it joins other panels at right angles. (For example, a side panel is glued to the bottom-top-back-front panels, all around its perimeter.) That's because those panels are very stiff in comparison to the unsupported area of the middle of the side panel.

If we add a brace in the middle of the panel, and if the brace is also very stiff in comparison, then we can assume there is no vibration amplitude along the joint with the brace. So now the large panel is broken up into two smaller ones, each of which is supported around its perimeter. The vibration mode will increase in frequency, as the smaller panel is stiffer than before. And there are two mechanisms to reduce its amplitude: one from the higher frequency, and another from the increased stiffness.

Now combine the lower amplitude (analogous to woofer with reduced excursion) AND the smaller panel size (analogous to a smaller woofer), and there are two reasons for lower ouput from the panel itself.

It is possible that the higher frequency resonant mode is more directional than the original lower one, and so it is possible that the side panel output is not directed towards the listener. However, any problem inside the box gets transmitted back out straight from the woofer cone. This remains true for standing waves, and panel vibrations.
 
MinusTheBear

MinusTheBear

Audioholic Ninja
Is there going to be a part 3 or continuation on this series of articles regarding drivers, crossovers etc that make up a loudspeaker? It has been very informative so far.
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
Is there going to be a part 3 or continuation on this series of articles regarding drivers, crossovers etc that make up a loudspeaker? It has been very informative so far.
Yes. There are at least 3 more parts coming. Next up are crossovers.
 
MinusTheBear

MinusTheBear

Audioholic Ninja
Yes. There are at least 3 more parts coming. Next up are crossovers.
Very good. Who are your guest loudspeaker industry experts going to be for this article? You guys have done a thorough job.
 

marcusvb05

Audiophyte
replace polyfill with OC703 panel?

Good article. Just read through it and learn a few things. My current speaker cabinet has separate midrange (sealed) and power woofer enclosure (ported). The cabinet currently has the ~1/4" thin black polyfill stuff and some of it have fallen off the cabinet wall.

I have some 2" OC703 fiberglass panels and thinking of replacing the polyfill with it. Would OC703 panels change the internal volume space of the enclosure? Or maybe 1" for the midrange enclosure section?

If the fiberglass can be use, can I use burlap to cover the fiberglass panel in the power enclosure section to prevent the fiberglass from leaking through the port?
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
Guys, as promised, we just published what is likely the most detailed look at cabinet bracing ever done by any publication or loudspeaker company for that matter. David Waratuke is a Structural Engineer that designs buildings for a living. He used Finite Element Analysis and heavy math to take a detailed look at loudspeaker cabinet panel resonances.

Loudspeaker Cabinet Bracing - A Detailed Look
 
K

keyser

Audiophyte
Damping

In general I really like the articles on this website, however the fact that damping is hardly mentioned in this article, is a real shortcoming.

A loudspeaker panel can be considered a mass-spring system. At resonance mass reactance and stiffness reactance balance out and the only resistance to motion is damping. If there were no damping, a resonance might go on indefinitely. No matter how heavy or stiff you make a panel, there will always be resonance. In the case of subwoofers you may be able to push the resonance out of band, but in the case of a midrange loudspeaker this is essentially impossible. A panel with very high mass and great stiffness will be very quiet at most frequencies, but completely transparent at others. It will ring like a bell at resonance frequencies - think of a church bell: very heavy and very stiff. We don't want that in a speaker cabinet. Therefore above all else, we must add damping.

The more stiffness, the more damping will be required. Also, our hearing is more sensitive at higher mid-frequencies than at lower frequencies. A thin-walled, but heavy and very well damped cabinet may therefore not be such a bad idea after all.
 
F

Finley1006

Audiophyte
Great Informative post

I am just beginning to attempt to learn about speaker designs. This post was a good read. I have, for decades, visited a little old speaker shop here in FT. Worth Texas, that I like. The owner has always been open about how and why they do things. I recently was shown the entire cut list for the newest designs. I have never, nor will I in the future, attempted to copy his products. There has never been any delays to answers when I ask. For those reasons, I will never buy quality speakers from anyone else...period. If you find someone like that, stick with them.
 
gene

gene

Audioholics Master Chief
Administrator
In general I really like the articles on this website, however the fact that damping is hardly mentioned in this article, is a real shortcoming.

A loudspeaker panel can be considered a mass-spring system. At resonance mass reactance and stiffness reactance balance out and the only resistance to motion is damping. If there were no damping, a resonance might go on indefinitely. No matter how heavy or stiff you make a panel, there will always be resonance. In the case of subwoofers you may be able to push the resonance out of band, but in the case of a midrange loudspeaker this is essentially impossible. A panel with very high mass and great stiffness will be very quiet at most frequencies, but completely transparent at others. It will ring like a bell at resonance frequencies - think of a church bell: very heavy and very stiff. We don't want that in a speaker cabinet. Therefore above all else, we must add damping.

The more stiffness, the more damping will be required. Also, our hearing is more sensitive at higher mid-frequencies than at lower frequencies. A thin-walled, but heavy and very well damped cabinet may therefore not be such a bad idea after all.
Of course dampening is critical element that should be applied into a loudspeaker cabinet but it doesn't negate the benefits of starting out with a stiffer cabinet to begin with.

More info on that here:
Loudspeaker Cabinet Bracing: A Detailed Look on Do's and Dont's | Audioholics
 
its phillip

its phillip

Audioholic Ninja
I am just beginning to attempt to learn about speaker designs. This post was a good read. I have, for decades, visited a little old speaker shop here in FT. Worth Texas, that I like. The owner has always been open about how and why they do things. I recently was shown the entire cut list for the newest designs. I have never, nor will I in the future, attempted to copy his products. There has never been any delays to answers when I ask. For those reasons, I will never buy quality speakers from anyone else...period. If you find someone like that, stick with them.
Which speaker shop? I live in fort worth, and I'd like to check it out one day :)
 
its phillip

its phillip

Audioholic Ninja
Well, Plano is definitely not Fort Worth, but that's pretty cool. I had no idea HTD was based out of DFW :)
 
C

cutedaddy

Audioholic Intern
"Adding thickness to panels add weight, which lowers the frequency of resonance." (editorial note by Bamberg).
That is really confusing! I can tell you that a thicker, heavier panel will be stiffer (all else being equal), which makes the pitch when knocking on it decidedly higher, not lower. A thinner, lighter panel, when you knock on it has the lower, hollower sound. I just built a cabinet with berch plywood, which is much denser, more rigid and also a little bit heavier than MDF of the same thickness, and i can tell you it's stiff and heavy as hell and it hurts my knuckles to get it to resonate. Then i added weight by glueing 0,2" solid rubber to the inside. This made the inside, when knocking on it, virtually silent, and the outside even higher in pitch and more painful to the knuckles before excited into audible vibration at all.
 
C

cutedaddy

Audioholic Intern
Even though the rubber itself is of course pretty pliable, as opposed to rigid, and would by itself prsumably have a very low resonance. Tightly mounted to the plywood however, it raises the resonant frequency of the plywood panel. I applied it also because, at the same time, it lowers the frequencies of reflected sound inside the cabinet, since it has a softer surface. This hopefully lowers the spl inside the box down to the lower midrange. For dampening the lowest frequencies i want to experiment with foam rubber, but some iinput on that topic would also be welcome.
Tx for the informative articles, luv ur site.
 
C

cutedaddy

Audioholic Intern
Back again, yet another thing fromthe comments above i'm unclear about: "Proper bracing significantly reduces excursion amplitude, which reduces SPL." Is that right? A tweeter has less amplitude than a woofer, but does that also mean it has lower SPL? I would suppose that, at least for perceived SPL, a given amount of dB could equally be propagated by a fast vibrating surface with small amplitude as by a slow vibrating surface with large amplitude. After all, if i run up the stairs step by step at 1 step/second i'm upstairs just as fast as when i run 4 steps at the time once every 4 seconds. Meaning, the same amount of labour is being produced in both cases, although one has higher frequency and thus needs lower amplitude. Then again, i'm not a sound engineer...
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
So I'm at my local Best Buy checking out some Klipsch speakers. It's a beautiful fictional day. The sun is shining, there are attractive ladies everywhere. Whatever...:D

Anyway, I say to the salesmen... Do you know if these cabinets are internally braced? And he replies, all of our speakers are built with the highest of standards! Next I ask what materials are used in the crossover network. He shrugs his head and continues thinking about whatever teenagers think about. Then I ask him to show me, but for some reason he refuses to pull out a woofer so I can peer inside! Apparently stores don't let you pull loudspeakers apart to check out their internal design. :eek:

Maybe it's just me, but the advice in this article seems a bit impractical. In many cases pulling out a woofer or tweeter would void your warranty! Aside from the knock test there really isn't much you can do without becoming the new owner...
Read the bold sentence and then think about who you were describing- a teenager who's there to make a few bucks. I have worked in the audio industry for over 40 years and came to realize an important fact- not everyone knows which end of a screwdriver to pound on.

If you think a manufacturer will cover damaged drivers that were removed so a customer could see what's in the box, you're nuts. Also, Murphy's Law says that as soon as the screws are almost out, the store will have a field trip of customers and you'll be left on your own. It also means that it's likely that someone will walk off with a shiny new driver.

Never been in retail, have you? If you want to see what's inside, look online- lots of manufacturers have photos and videos of their stuff being made.
 
T

Thomas Ascher

Audiophyte
For years I've been stuffing speakers but always concerned about how to keep stuffing from coming into contact with back of woofers of mid-woofers. Any suggestions?!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
U

utubecomment21

Audioholic Intern
For years I've been stuffing speakers but always concerned about how to keep stuffing from coming into contact with back of woofers of mid-woofers. Any suggestions?!!!!!!!!!!!!
Look into Totem speakers as Vince doesn't believe in stuffing, neither do I. It's for amateurs!

(2:35)
borosilicate damping - https://goo.gl/CA78sE

I'm in the happy position where I don't buy or have to buy 'Store Bought' speakers, but after 40 years, Totem are the only one of two brands i'd even begin to consider, with Dynaudio maybe in second place, only because they (Dynaudio) get a big shout in the realm of car audio SQ.

But in this article there's so much 'facepalm' inducing bilge that I don't know where to begin. All I'll say is that in my 40+ years, I'm glad I'm not so stupid as to believe this nonsense.
http://www.audioholics.com/loudspeaker-design/loudspeaker-cabinets
 
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