Finishing up my first GT5-15 sub

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Chad Zemel

Enthusiast
Hello,

This past weekend I put together my first subwoofer flat pack - glued, drilled, sanded, rolled over, primed, and painted (duratex). I am ready to start connecting the driver, box, and amp, but I had a few questions before I proceed...

1. I understand how to connect 14awg cable to the neutrik nl4fx speakon 4 pole cable connector with a pozidrive #1, but I am a bit confused how to connect cable between the speakon mount and the gt5-15 driver which both have rectangular metal pieces with small holes in the middle. It was mentioned that these Gold Spade Lug Crimp Terminals(which I own) would do the trick, but I am not sure I understand how they connect. Do I need to solder the lugs to the driver and mount?

2. The driver is a very tight fit into the outer rim of the flat pack (I got the Dayton Ultimax 15 cut). I am thinking about sanding it down just a little bit more so that it fits in a little more easily. Is this gasketing tape supposed to fit between the driver and box at the outer lip, inner lip, or both? If the outer lip, I assume I need to sand it down further. Do you have a recommendation for how to do that? And part two to the sanding question, there is a 1/8" or so lift of the driver from the plane of the box, even when fully in. Is that acceptable, or do I need to find a way of sanding the inner rim down further to place the driver deeper into the wood?

3. I am looking to put a "grill" (can't be metal, foam, or fabric, so I am thinking thin and holey plastic) overtop the driver end of the box when complete. Do you have any idea where I might find such a "grill"? If not, I have a 3D printer friend who should be able to make it happen for me!

4. It was recommended that I use polyester pillows inside the sealed sub. If this is the best option, what do you recommend for affixing the pillows to the inside of the 3 cu ft box?

Thanks for your advice in advance!
Chad
 
lovinthehd

lovinthehd

Audioholic Jedi
Well....

1/ You need to crimp this type of connector on the "rectangular" or male connectors...

2/ As long as it fits not a bad thing, try using two cable ties (in opposing screw holes on the driver's flange) to hold the driver as you lower it into the cut-out. Sanding is fine, if you routed your own opening you could more easily have enlarged it....the gasketing tape goes between the flange of the driver and the mounting surface in the baffle.

3/ Make one. I used pieces of leftover plywood piecess from the build but you'll need to fashion your own somehow unless you can find something of the proper dimension online (never tried). I sunk magnets into the corners of the frame of the grill and screws into the sub baffle, works fine for me; used grill fabric from parts-express.com on the grill frame and stapled in place.

4/ Use pillows stapled in place or something like this
 
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Chad Zemel

Enthusiast
On the GT5-15 technical data sheet, it mentions "V(BOX) = 1.50ft^3 (42.48 liters)" for sealed subs. I created a 3 cu ft flat pack, which is twice the technical sheet described size for internal volume. How much poly-fil would you recommend gluing to the inner walls of the box?
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
Ok, I'll ask the obvious questions:
1)What made you choose this driver: JBL GT5-15 besides low price?
2)Did someone modeled it for you or at least verified the design?
 
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Chad Zemel

Enthusiast
@BoredSysAdmin - It was one of the moderator's recommendations for my project. I am just trying to define how much poly-fil is required before sealing.

@lovinthehd - that standard seems to be consistent with my research as well. I think I will go with that!
 

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