Dual Opposed Infinity Reference 1262W

[jinjuku]

4.5 Cubic foot sealed (before bracing). Amp will be a Berhinger iNuke 3000DSP.

Some observations about the driver:

1. Extremely stiff cone. The rubber surround looks like it is wrapped under itself (no flat lip) to stiffen up the suspension.

2. Really neat trick they did with the cone (see pic). As the cone meets the surround they have it folded over (think ^ shape). IMO that adds a great deal of rigidity and stability

3. Though the basket is stamped it is coated in what looks like a zinc bath. The hole edges are folded and were the basket meets the magnet and spider it is vented. Everything about this driver speaks to rigidity and stiffness.

4. Vented pole piece

Infinity has seemingly brought a lot of technology to this budget woofer.

 

[Matt34]

What do the sims look like for this?

 

[jinjuku]

Here is the Dual Opposed 1260W

So figure another 6dB with the 1262w's in the 2 Ohm configuration. Estimated F10 at 20Hz will be in the neighborhood of 104/5dB no EQ and no room gain taken into account. So the bottom end could have an 8-9 dB rise corner loaded I think. Someone correct me if I am wrong on that count.

 

[Matt34]

Following this, might give this a try when I get home. Build a pair to go with the LMS and try the Dr. Geddes approach to setting up multiple subs.

I really liked my Kappa perfects when I had them.

 

[jinjuku]

BTW Guys 110dB is doable with room gain. Sorry about that. You are looking at about 103dB at 20Hz X-Max is going to start being the limiting factor. Also the 1262 will be about 3dB higher in the 50Hz region not 6dB.

Sorry for the mistake. Just been modeling this and some other speakers in differing alignments. I wanted to clear this up.

Attached is the corrected simulation. I still can't get BBL 6.0 to not puke on modeling the 1262w. I'll drop a line to TLS Guy to figure out what I am doing wrong in BBL. The help document is not helping

It's still an easy and killer build I could imagine a quartet of these on the iNuke 3000DSP.

 

[gumbysucks]

Jinjuku, how would they work with mounting in a push pull ,and wiring out of phase with each other? Like M&K did on their subs,would box size be smaller? I am considering making a push pull as a first home theater sub build, or dual sealed.

 

[slipperybidness]

Questions

Are these subs actually intended for car use? Just curious as car audio is all that I am familiar with from Infinity subs.

I have had a couple infinity reference 12s in my car driven off 1000W peak amp and man did they hit. It was too much for my small 300zx, I now have a 10 kenwood in a custom box.

 

[jinjuku]

You don't wire out of phase for starters. The both kick out at the same time.

I would do .75" (18mm) ply. 19.5" X 19.5" box dimensions all the way around. Three window braces (two inset baffle and one internal smack in the middle). So you need a circle jig and router. Or a pencil compass, jigsaw and a steady hand.

The brace cutout would be the inside diameter of the speaker so you have some ply to put screws too. Do a .75" MDF cosmetic overlay that will make it look like you countersunk the driver.

 

[jinjuku]

Are these subs actually intended for car use? Just curious as car audio is all that I am familiar with from Infinity subs.

Yes they are. But the model well in small enclosures and have the ability to deliver some decent output down low.

Where they excel is price to performance. I could imagine a 16 driver array (8 dual opposed two in each corner loaded in a typical room), 4 channels of amplification. You could do this for $2K and I don't know of a reasonable commercial offering that could beat it

 

[slipperybidness]

Yes they are. But the model well in small enclosures and have the ability to deliver some decent output down low.

Where they excel is price to performance. I could imagine a 16 driver array (8 dual opposed two in each corner loaded in a typical room), 4 channels of amplification. You could do this for $2K and I don't know of a reasonable commercial offering that could beat it

I think you would probably be correct on that. I've always been really impressed with Infinity brands in general. I currently have the P363s in my 2nd system.

And those car subs are definitely top-notch, you would know that I was in the neighborhood when I was down the block from your house If I had realized the usefulness in HT setup, I might have held onto them.

What amps do you usually use to drive these?

 

[jinjuku]

I think you would probably be correct on that. I've always been really impressed with Infinity brands in general. I currently have the P363s in my 2nd system.

And those car subs are definitely top-notch, you would know that I was in the neighborhood when I was down the block from your house If I had realized the usefulness in HT setup, I might have held onto them.

What amps do you usually use to drive these?

Crown, Behringer, QSC, Crest, Peavey. What ever works for you. Just have the juice on hand.

 

[jinjuku]

Pics....

 

[Matt34]

Who is that one for?

 

[jinjuku]

Me...

I have some eDesign 19Ov.2's (18") for 4.5 cubic foot sealed up next.

 

[jinjuku]

This sub is badass. $150 all in. Amazing. Digs even into the teens with some oomph...

Will get a comparo with the ported Kappa when I get a chance.

 

[jstrahn]

Pulling this one out of it's coffin.

For clarification, you were using an inuke 3000. How were you wired up? Coils in parallel for 2 ohm stereo (1500 rms x 2)?

Seems like 1500 would be a lot of wattage for this sub. I'm interested in doing a dual opposed like you've done and wondering if I can get away with using an inuke1000. Would 500 rms apiece be enough wattage? Thanks!

 

[jinjuku]

I wired for 2ohm load so the 1260 is paralleled. The subs are rated RMS 350 EACH DRIVER and peak 1100. So I would go with the 3000.