Custom Build JL Audio 13W1v2-4 project

annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Hello All

I am doing a custom subwoofer build for one of our fellow Audioholics, lbolts20

We are working with a fairly limited budget but needed some good low end output for a moderately sized room. Ultimately we decided on JL Audio's 13W1v2-4 driver and a 300W rms Bash plate amplifier. We chose the driver due to it's good linearity, large surface area and, well, low cost. The driver models extremely well overall. The amplifier adequately suits the power needs of the driver as it will be a very efficient system.

The enclosure will be slot vented, tuned to about 21hz. (Extreme LF was not the biggest of concerns). It is 5.3 cu.ft. net and uses extensive bracing. We are using 32 sq. in. of port area to aid in output and extension. This results in vent air speed of approx 12 m/s. The enclosure will utilize a double front baffle and custom grille.

I will update as things progress.

Here are some first stage pics:

Some bracing pieces:


Unassembled port & port braces:


Rough assembly of enclosure held with clamps showing port opening:


Front view of assembled internal bracing:


Rear view of assembled internal bracing:


Top view of assembled internal bracing:
 
Warpdrv

Warpdrv

Audioholic Ninja
Sweet buddy.... Nice work so far.....

Look forward to your progress....
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I have a few more updates on the enclosure build.

Bracing with port attached:


Here is a rear view of the bracing roughly fit into the enclosure:


This is a front view of the roughly fit bracing:
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
Well, it looks like you are doing a good job on the cabinet. Too good, for the driver being used. I don't understand the reason for this driver - it's not much cheaper than drivers with what I will wager have far superior motor systems(Infinity Kappa Perfect, or even Peerless XBL based subwoofers).

-Chris
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Well, it looks like you are doing a good job on the cabinet. Too good, for the driver being used. I don't understand the reason for this driver - it's not much cheaper than drivers with what I will wager have far superior motor systems(Infinity Kappa Perfect, or even Peerless XBL based subwoofers).

-Chris
I chose the driver based upon it's price (I have a very good source at low cost), surface area advantage, low power requirements and DMA designed motor. Even though it may not be as linear as a W7 or W6v2 it is a big step over many other drivers available, especially many commercial drivers.
 
Last edited:
E

E-A-G-L-E-S

Full Audioholic
This thread has me considering a JL as well.
I have yet to hear a driver that I like more than JL's in both auto and home.

I don't suppose you'd be able to lend that olive branch for good pricing any further, say to PA? :)
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
This thread has me considering a JL as well.
I have yet to hear a driver that I like more than JL's in both auto and home.

I don't suppose you'd be able to lend that olive branch for good pricing any further, say to PA? :)
I am of the opinion that the only JL really worth getting from a pure performance stand point is the W7. It's a super-woofer, of sorts, due to it's unusual linear high excursion and power handling. The W6 is also superb, but it's not going to likely offer any appreciable performance over the Infinity Kappa Perfect drivers, but the W6 will cost you nearly $100 more, as compared to the Kappa Perfect drivers. But, you can't go wrong with the W6, and if you really just want the JL name, I say go for the W6. It will give you flawless performance comparable to the Kappa Perfects.

All that being said, a pair of W6 or Kappa Perfects will produce more distortion free SPL than you can ever use in real use. A single unit in the proper designed cabinet, can produce near 120dB, or well in excess of 120, for a pair, in average rooms, down to at least 20Hz. Using say a pair of 12" W7s means you are trying to enter the 130+ dB range in your living room. Besides showing off, it has absolutely no practical application, and high SPL 20-30Hz tones can easily damage many standard houses, in regards to cracking window panes and drywall, if the resonant frequency of the joints matches up to the test tones being played. Avaserfi, a user here, has already cracked his ceiling and a window, playing 20Hz at 120dB range with a single Kappa Perfect 12" DIY unit in his living room.

-Chris
 
E

E-A-G-L-E-S

Full Audioholic
. Avaserfi, a user here, has already cracked his ceiling and a window, playing 20Hz at 120dB range with a single Kappa Perfect 12" DIY unit in his living room.

-Chris
:eek:


It's not the name, it's my past experience with the sound.
Heck the driver might not even be able to be seen.
Even the W1's back in the day in my opinion had a great SQ to them...at least in the big sealed box I had my dual 15" in.
 
G

gus6464

Audioholic Samurai
Do you guys use AutoCAD to design your boxes? I have been trying to design a sealed one myself with CAD and it's just a pain in the butt. Any other easier to use program out there?
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Do you guys use AutoCAD to design your boxes? I have been trying to design a sealed one myself with CAD and it's just a pain in the butt. Any other easier to use program out there?
I use a program called PPP. Pencil, paper, and patience :)
 
WmAx

WmAx

Audioholic Samurai
:eek:


It's not the name, it's my past experience with the sound.
Heck the driver might not even be able to be seen.
Even the W1's back in the day in my opinion had a great SQ to them...at least in the big sealed box I had my dual 15" in.
I have used many different drivers, and I have also had W1s. It was a good driver for the cost back in the day, compared to other retail units of similar price. The new W1 is somewhat improved, but I will tell you based on actual performance, you should not consider less than the W6 for home use if you want something special in terms of linearity. The Kappa Perfect units will match the W6 performance at lower cost if you don't mind using a product by Infinity.

-Chris
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
Sorry for not updating this on a more regular basis but finding time to post has been scarce.

Bracing all securely mounted in:



Recess cut for plate amplifier:



Baffle cut outs for flush mount:

 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
I have used many different drivers, and I have also had W1s. It was a good driver for the cost back in the day, compared to other retail units of similar price. The new W1 is somewhat improved, but I will tell you based on actual performance, you should not consider less than the W6 for home use if you want something special in terms of linearity. The Kappa Perfect units will match the W6 performance at lower cost if you don't mind using a product by Infinity.

-Chris
Chris,

I know the motor linearity is fantastic on the Infinity as well as the JL's but how is the suspension linearity compared to JL. Specifically the KMS curves from Dumax reports. That has been the area where the JL products seem to excel over most others that come close or match on motor linearity. I believe it was Tom Nousaine or Eric Hardinson(?) that measured the 12W6v2 and declared it the most linear driver he had ever tested. He/They had tested the Kappa Perfect VQ about 2-3 months prior if I remeber correctly. They were remarked as the two of the best drivers ever tested (along with the W7).
 
annunaki

annunaki

Moderator
The more linear the motor and suspension are the more accurate to the source the sub can be, especially at higher output levels and extremely low frequencies. It allows the subwoofer to play with much less distortion especially at higher output levels.

A non-linear suspension can make even the most linear motored woofer induce distortion well before the motor would run out of steam. It becomes especially important on long stroking woofers.

Here is an example:

http://ocw.mit.edu/NR/rdonlyres/hs/ase/7E7E556D-0147-4125-BD51-91B362BD3CF5/0/tempestdumax.pdf

As we can see the suspension is only linear to about -14 mm on the inward stroke but out to +20mm on the outward stroke. The motor is linear to about +/-17mm or so.

What will happen is that distortion will begin to rise above +/-14mm excursion due to non-linearities in the suspension, even though the motor force will stay linear until about +/- 17mm.

Here is a PDF on Dumax and Klippel reports and what they measure (dynamic testing). Theile small parameter s are static based.
 
E

E-A-G-L-E-S

Full Audioholic
Awesome link!

One thing that I have a question about is this....he states that in his opinion drivers with a Qts value of .40 or higher are much better suited for a seled enclosure than ported.
Yet on my list of over 35 drivers I've accumulated, many are used repetitively with great success seemingly in ported boxes?
 
Last edited:
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top