Connecting projector to a/v rack power protection?

[wings]

My apologies in advance for a noob question, but I am installing a ceiling mounted projector in a basement media room and would like to connect the projector to my power protection in my a/v rack. This will require about a 25' wiring run above drywall ceiling and behind sheetrock walls. Drywall will be cut and refinished as necessary for wiring (speakers, lights, power, etc.), but my question is, how is this typically wired? I assume building codes preclude running a long power cord from the projector through the ceiling and walls to the a/v rack, but a dedicated ceiling outlet wired conventionally will not provide the same level of protection. Is there a common means of routing power through the a/v rack power conditioner to the projector? Thanks in advance!

 

[BMXTRIX]

Extend the power using an inlet/outlet setup. Power extenders are available through Amazon for not a lot of cash and you use code standard Romex power cabling.

Here is a complete kit to do exactly what you want:
http://www.amazon.com/Midlite-A46-W-Décor-Recessed-Receptacle/dp/B002KF438I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1437359536&sr=8-2&keywords=wall+power+inlet

But, I would get just the inlet, and use whatever power outlet you want near the projector side...
http://www.amazon.com/Midlite-MDT4642W-Single-Gang-Decor-Recessed/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1437359594&sr=8-1&keywords=wall+power+inlet&pebp=1437359598353&perid=1H9FT4PFZGYTAD1VJEDZ

I have used the above product, in several locations in my home.

But, this looks like it should work as well...
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-4937-Weatherproof-Wallplate-Receptacle/dp/B00074USHY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1437359594&sr=8-4&keywords=wall+power+inlet
For less money, if you don't mind the look of it.

 

[wings]

Thanks for your help BMX, this is exactly what I needed. I've never seen a power inlet before - I'm obviously pretty new to this ;-)

 

[Blue Dude]

I have several power outlets in my room that connect to a wall box in my equipment closet. They were originally conventionally wired to the room circuit so that they would pass inspection, but they also had a separate romex run from each outlet to the box. When the inspection passed, the electrician removed and capped the room circuit lines to the outlets, then uncapped and connected the romex run. At the closet wall box, each romex was tied to a 6 ft pigtail - standard power cord - which was then plugged into the power center. At the moment I am only using two of them (TV and projector) but originally thought to run up to 4. I never did connect the other 2 outlets to the romex, so I have 2 unconnected pigtails, still coiled up and hanging from the wall box. This arrangement has worked well for 8 years.

 

[BMXTRIX]

Blue Dude - Yes, that certainly works. You basically have made it into an in-wall extension cord using Romex instead of just an extension cord. But, it's illegal to do it this way and for the $100 more (or so) it may cost, I would recommend people buy the inlet/outlet solution which I've linked to. Years ago I certainly did it very similarly to what you described. Heck, I've run standard extension cables in ceilings in the past when I've had a pathway. But, at this point in my experience, and since product is available, I've switched over to power extenders.

 

[Blue Dude]

I wasn't aware that an installed pigtail would be illegal while a power inlet would not be. Certainly the electricians didn't have a problem with it. Think it would be worth pulling out the pigtails and installing inlets?

 

[BMXTRIX]

In reality, if an electrician waits until AFTER an inspection to make a change, then it's not to code.

That said, it's not like your house is going to burn down because you are using a non-standard electrical connection.

If you want to swap it out, the main reason seems to be because it provides a true disconnect from the wall. If the firemen were to come through your home and they were to hit that wire with an instrument, it wouldn't pull the wire from the wall, and could potentially hurt someone.

In reality, that's just not likely to happen. But that is why code calls for a inlet/outlet solution to work legally. Not better, just more 'legal'. Your choice on what you want to do. My opinion is that I would replace it... But, I'm a real procrastinator, so I would replace it in like 3 or 4 years.

 

[Blue Dude]

I ended up replacing the pigtails with power inlets. I used these inlets, and attached them straight to the Romex coming from the associated power outlets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XDQAA6/ It was a straightforward job and it looks a lot cleaner besides.

An important step was finding appropriately rated power cables. I made sure that they were both rated for 15A, not the 10A or so that seems common. I sincerely doubt that the current draw for either one would approach even 10A but I wanted to make sure that they wouldn't get too warm. I used these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FBA1WCE/

It was a fun little project and it gives me some peace of mind knowing that it's 100% code compliant. The only additional change I was thinking about was replacing the power outlets with color-coded ones to illustrate that they are attached to a power inlet in the closet rather than direct to house power like all the others. Perhaps I could add a sticker dot over the associated inlet. The idea is that I know exactly how it's wired, but nobody else does, so it might be a good idea to mark the difference somehow.