Connecting a Subwoofer to a Yamaha RX-V1500

Discussion in 'Amps, Pre-Pros & Receivers' started by allanls, Sep 19, 2005.

  1. allanls Audiophyte

    allanls
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    Hi,

    I have recently purchased a Yamaha RX-V1500 and I have an existing 5.1 JBL Speaker system. I need help in connecting the subwoofer to the receiver.

    Thanks
    Allan L.
  2. jaxvon Audioholic Ninja

    jaxvon
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    Without knowing the model of your speakers system, it's impossible to guide you in the right direction. Please furish this information and we can get you on your way!
  3. allanls Audiophyte

    allanls
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    I have the speakers and subwoofer from the JBL ESC230 series.
    http://manuals.harman.com/jbl/hom/Owner's%20Manual/ESC230%20om.pdf

    Though i have managed to connect the speakers, i havent been able to find an appropriate connection for the subwoofer.

    Thanks for your help.

    Regards
    Allan L.
  4. varkeast Junior Audioholic

    varkeast
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    It looks like that is not a powered subwoofer. A sub like that won't work directly with the Yamaha. The subwoofer RCA connection on the Yamaha is meant to go to a powered subwoofer with its own amplifier.

    you could somehow hook that sub into the original JBL system and use that as the amp for the sub, and connect the JBL esc 230 main unit to the Yamaha. Best bet would be to get a new powered sub. The 15 watts the JBL system pushes to the subwoofer won't be able to keep up with the new Yamaha
  5. jcPanny Audioholic Ninja

    jcPanny
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    Sub connections

    Allanls,
    Looks like your sub only has speaker level connections and is a passive subwoofer. This means that the sub is basically just a large woofer and does not have an internal amplifier. (verify that your sub does not have a 120V AC power cord) Previously, the sub was powered by the amp internal to your JVC HTIB.

    First off, the Yamaha RX-V1500 is a great receiver, but your JVC speakers are not worthy. Your best bet is to make a decent subwoofer your next upgrade. Look at the entry level models from SVS (www.svsubwoofers.com) and HSU (www.hsuresearch.com) or for less money, the Cadence X-SUB.
    All of these subs are active (internal amp) and can use the line out connection on your receiver to connect to the sub using RCA type connectors.

    Another temporary option might be to connect the sub output from the Yamaha to one of the line inputs on the JVC for use as the amp for the existing sub. Not sure if this will work but it is worth a try.
  6. allanls Audiophyte

    allanls
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    Thanks a ton for your suggestions. The Sub is indeed a passive sub, the sub and the speakers are next on the upgrade list, but for the time being i have to make do with what i have. I'll try out the suggestion of connecting the jbl htib to the yamaha and see how it goes. Btw, any ideas on how to connect the jbl htib to the yamaha?

    Thanks again.
    Allan L.
  7. jcPanny Audioholic Ninja

    jcPanny
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    Sub connection

    Allan,
    Here is the connection scheme I suggested.
    * Connect an RCA "Y" connection to the sub pre-out on the Yamaha.
    * Connect dual RCAs from the "Y" to one of the line inputs on the HTIB receiver.
    * Set the HTIB in a mode such that it will use the line input and send to the sub. Set the crossover as high as possible so all info goes to the sub. (Not sure how to do this on your HTIB so check the manual)
    * Connect the speaker level sub output from your HTIB to the sub.

    Keep in mind, this is only a temporary setup for a real subwoofer.
  8. Mudcat Senior Audioholic

    Mudcat
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    You could just get a 100+/- watt PA AMP. Parts Express has several for under $200
  9. jcPanny Audioholic Ninja

    jcPanny
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    PA or Plate Amp

    Yes,
    He could purchase a PA or plate amp. But why spend $200 to connect the 99 cent woofer that came with his HTIB. The money would be much better spent towards a $400 sub from HSU or SVS.
  10. mulester7 Audioholic Samurai

    mulester7
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    .....there it is....using the LFE cut on the yamaha would send the sub signal already cut and ready to be amplified by the HTIB receiver employing both rolloffs to the passive sub....and, attenuation will be achieved for the sub with the HTIB receiver....not sure the Y would be necessary since the sub element surely is not dual voice-coiled, but you might as well try that to achieve maximum-strength signal input to both sides of the HTIB receiver....no need to buy a $200 amp at this time that would overpower the inexpensive sub element far too quickly....save your money, Allanis, working toward a quality powered sub as your first upgrade....excellent job of simply following the signal-path, JCPanny.......
  11. abboudc Audioholic Chief

    abboudc
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    I'd set the sub to "off" on the Yamaha, and the front speakers to large. Then run two wires out of the speaker level outputs for the center, one to the satellite, and one to the sub. Not the ideal setup, but your Yamaha is hardly taxed driving the satellites and will have no problem driving the center and and sub. Since most of the sound goes to the center for movies, you'll get most of the bass.
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2005
  12. j_garcia Audioholic Jedi

    j_garcia
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    I agree with abboudc. That is the simplest way to get it to work with your current gear, until you can upgrade.

    Parts Express has this sub on sale right now for $140, and the 10" version is just $99.
  13. mulester7 Audioholic Samurai

    mulester7
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    .....so it's ok for the sub to receive the full-range signal?.....
  14. j_garcia Audioholic Jedi

    j_garcia
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    I'm guessing it has a built in low pass for the sub, either fixed or adjustable, since it is designed to work only with speaker level inputs. That's a good question though, since there's the possibility that the output from the HTiB setup was filtered already...

    DOH, I take that back. If there are no speaker level outputs on the sub, this won't work because that would mean you would have to hook the satellites to the receiver and you would also be sending them full range singal - NOT GOOD. If you cannot connect the front satellites directly to the sub, do not hook it up this way. I misread abboudc's post.
  15. jcPanny Audioholic Ninja

    jcPanny
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    HTIB Satellites

    You will probably need all speakers set to SMALL and a cross over around 100-120 Hz to prevent those satelites from distorting.

    Even if the "subwoofer" did have a low pass filter, connecting it in parallel with one of the mains would provide a 4 ohm load for the receiver. Not good.
  16. mulester7 Audioholic Samurai

    mulester7
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    .....that's probably the best route, JCPanny, but I would even yet, take a "Buck" approach, of setting the main's regiment to sound as pleasing as possible powered by the Yamaha receiver, then bring the sub into the picture....the sub Allanis has, which is only an element in a box with no controls, couldn't be much quality with a rated output to the sub from the HTIB receiver of a WHOPPING 15 watts....but, outputting from the sub-out of the Yamaha, with the signal already cut by the LFE feature of the Yamaha with rolloff number one applied, then inputting that already cut signal into the HTIB receiver, which is where another cut for the sub would HAVE to be, would allow both the volume and tone controls of the HTIB receiver to help the sub add, toward a BALANCED and CLEAN attempt, whatever it CAN add, and the sub signal will have been cut twice for double rolloff toward cleanness, and initiated by the quality Yamaha receiver....guys, it only makes sense to me that an element in a sub that is to receive a max of 15 watts needs ALL the help it can get.......
  17. abboudc Audioholic Chief

    abboudc
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    Why would sending the satellites the full range signal be bad? I doubt he'd be able to hear the difference on those speakers, they just wouldn't produce any bass because they're not capable of it.

    As for the cutoff of the "sub", most HTIB subs aren't subs at all, but a woofer from 5" - 8". The woofer should be able to handle it regardless of the cutoff (if there is one). There are cheap one-way speakers out there about that size, and i doubt it would sound worse than with the bass tailing off at the bottom of the 2.5" midrange with no sub.

    The better question is...why would you hook up THAT receiver to THOSE speakers??? You could sell the HTIB, and buy a surround package. Worse comes to worse, you can get a passive sub with speaker level outs, though you still won't be doing that receiver justice.

    Very true. On second thought, maybe it isn't such a good idea.
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2005
  18. allanls Audiophyte

    allanls
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    I have connected the sub to the center spk terminal and have managed to get it working. One problem though, for some reason some of my speakers produce very low output even when the avr is at -5.0 db, its almost like they are squeaking. I tried changing to different positions, with no difference. They even sound the same on the HTIB.
  19. j_garcia Audioholic Jedi

    j_garcia
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    The receiver won't see a 4 Ohm load, because the sub is doing the x-over and passing on the signal, so it only sees the sub. Mixing two speakers together does not automatically give you a 4 ohm nominal load, it depends on what frequencies the speakers are handling that determine the actual load seen by the amp becaue impedance varies with frequency.

    Because they can't reproduce a full range signal and this will cause them to distort.

    Sounds like it may be time to look into some new speakers.
  20. jcPanny Audioholic Ninja

    jcPanny
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    Speaker performance

    Allanls,
    You went from a receiver with 15 watts per channel to one with 120 watts per channel making it very easy to overdrive those small satellite speakers. It sounds like this may have happened. :confused:

    Also, the center channel is important for inteligability of the dialog on Dolby and DTS DVDs. Hook the center back up and don't worry about the "sub". Play something simple like 7 channel stereo mode and see if the speakers are still functioning. Also, running the auto or manual setup would probably indicate an error with any of the speakers.

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