Best Banana plugs and type for the money? Please read and kindly advise

A

addictaudio

Audioholic
They have to be stripped with all banana connectors.

IMO, you are talking about these:


There's nothing wrong with those. They should work just fine. Basically, I would not change them out unless they are falling off or damaged.
Those are the ones, but the way that they did it, it looks horrible aesthetically. Those ruber boots just keep sliding back and forth, and are not attached to the actual boot, thus potentially letting moisture and dust in there. When they proposed to build these wires and run in-walls, I was under the impression that the end result was going to look like actual terminated cables, but they look much worse, and like they did a mickey mouse job. I will see if I can take and post a picture when I have time.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
In that case, I would just get some shrink wrap like mentioned before.
 
A

addictaudio

Audioholic
Are all banana plugs this way, with that rubber boots just sitting there, but with no way to tighten or attach properly? Or is this just the way that this particular Audioquest is designed?
 
adwilk

adwilk

Audioholic Ninja
If it were me: It sounds like you dropped some cash with these people, and although they are terminated in way that makes them functional, you aren't happy. They should fix that. The connectors they used are perfectly legit- don't get me wrong, but perhaps a bit of a cost saving shortcut? What other "shortcuts" did they take? Who knows.. not exactly the point. If you're unhappy, perhaps you could discuss that with them? Just mention that you'd like a better cosmetic solution that what you ended up with. If you're cordial, they're likely to be understanding. If not, no worries- banana connectors are an easy DIY. Also- You have me a little concerned, not that we can't help here, but regarding the rest of your setup. Sounds like you have some expensive gear and maybe not sure how to set it up correctly??? Be sure to ask lots of questions if you're not sure and feel free to be specific. Even better if you can get a pro out there to help you.
 
Last edited:
A

addictaudio

Audioholic
If it were me: It sounds like you dropped some cash with these people, and although they are terminated in way that makes them functional, you aren't happy. They should fix that. The connectors they used are perfectly legit- don't get me wrong, but perhaps a bit of a cost saving shortcut? What other "shortcuts" did they take? Who knows.. not exactly the point. If you're unhappy, perhaps you could discuss that with them? Just mention that you'd like a better cosmetic solution that what you ended up with. If you're cordial, they're likely to be understanding. If not, no worries- banana connectorsAlso- You have me a little concerned, not that we can't help here, but regarding the rest of your setup. Sounds like you have some expensive gear and maybe not sure how to set it up correctly??? Be sure to ask lots of questions if you're not sure and feel free to be specific. Even better if you can get a pro out there to help you.

Thanks, the system has been in the making for a while. I thought that I had hired a PRO, but they were very short of being a PRO, LOL. I am getting a new set of speakers, and they are due back to finish the job.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Are all banana plugs this way, with that rubber boots just sitting there, but with no way to tighten or attach properly? Or is this just the way that this particular Audioquest is designed?
No most of them are not that way. Few companies have crimp banana connectors, or at least not crimped alone. WBT offers some that you crimp a sleeve on the wire and then insert that into the connector and screw it down. Most just use screws that tighten against the wire and then the outer "shell" goes over that and that keeps the screws from backing out.
 
A

addictaudio

Audioholic
What is WBT? So out of most choices mentioned on this thread (Sewell, GLS, Nakamichi, and BJC), would going with the BJC be the safest bet for my application? Monitor Audio GX speaker set-up, the Audioquest Type 2 cables used as two conductors, hooking to an Emotiva XPA-5?
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
WBT is an OEM manufacturer of connectors, many of which are quite expensive. If you look at their line of connectors, basically most of the other ones on the market are knock offs of their products :)

Their locking plug:


http://wbtusa.com/default.html
 
A

addictaudio

Audioholic
^^^ Wow, I checked them out, but $65.00, EACH, LOL?? Per my post number 27, given the choices, what is your final verdict? BJC locking bananas?
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Yes, BJC locking. Functionally identical to that WBT, just not quite as pretty or pricey.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Those look like a really nice pieace as well. How do they differ from BJC?
They differ in the same way the BJC ones do from the WBT, they are copies, but basically work the same way. More or less for connectors, as long as they stay attached to the wire and work and look the way you want, they all do the same thing. I haven't tried the Nakamichi locking ones, but they appear to be very similar so they should also do the trick. Don't over think this, just go ahead and get some connectors, because there won't be a performance difference.
 
Last edited:
A

addictaudio

Audioholic
^^^ Thanks again Garcia. Can you confirm that either the BJC/Nakamichi locking bananas will work with both the Emotiva XPA-5 and Monitor Audio GX speakers binding posts (GX 300 towers, GX350 center, and GXFX surrounds)?
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
They should work on the Emotiva because I use the BJC ones on my XPA-3, but can't help you on the speakers. Assuming standard 5 way binding posts (a 99.9% probability they are), the speakers should be fine too.
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
For the surrounds do you have the wire in the wall / wall plate? If you are mounting the surrounds directly to the wall with the slots on the back, those connectors are not going to work because they stick out about 1.5-2" from the back of the speaker plus room to loop the wire. You'll probably want some spades for those, or just bare wire even possibly. The mains/center should be fine.
 
A

addictaudio

Audioholic
For the surrounds do you have the wire in the wall / wall plate? If you are mounting the surrounds directly to the wall with the slots on the back, those connectors are not going to work because they stick out about 1.5-2" from the back of the speaker plus room to loop the wire. You'll probably want some spades for those, or just bare wire even possibly. The mains/center should be fine.
Yes, for the surrounds, the wires are coming out from the side of the walls through a wall plate. See, for this reason I keep asking, because I only want the installers to come back once, and did not want to have the incorrect bananas. So for the Emotiva XPA-5, towers, and center, I should get the BJC/Nakamichi bananas, but get four spades for both surrounds? If so, which ones?
 
j_garcia

j_garcia

Audioholic Jedi
Just have them use bare wire. They can "tin" the ends with solder to keep things tidy if you like. That will likely work better than connectors in a tight space. If you want connectors, the speakers will need to be spaced off the wall a little bit to allow for the connectors/wire (there are little rubber feet there already, but probably not enough clearance).

Either of these should work:
http://www.nakamichiplug.com/product-0515H.html
http://www.nakamichiplug.com/product-0515F.html
 
Last edited:
BMXTRIX

BMXTRIX

Audioholic Warlord
I actually cut a hole in my wall to allow the speaker to lie flat... But I'm a dumba$$. :D
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top