Active Crossover

[skers_54]

The other day I was reading an article about active crossovers and it got me wondering if I could replace the passive crossovers in my Behringer 2030s with an active unit. I know they're pretty cheap, so the improvements probably won't be that great. However, I am planning on building one of TLS's designs later this summer and I could recycle the active crossover for use in those. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I would actually save money using something like the Behringer cx2310 v. building the passive circuits and am curious if this will provide a sonic benefit, or even be feasible. Thanks in advance.

 

[lsiberian]

The other day I was reading an article about active crossovers and it got me wondering if I could replace the passive crossovers in my Behringer 2030s with an active unit. I know they're pretty cheap, so the improvements probably won't be that great. However, I am planning on building one of TLS's designs later this summer and I could recycle the active crossover for use in those. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I would actually save money using something like the Behringer cx2310 v. building the passive circuits and am curious if this will provide a sonic benefit, or even be feasible. Thanks in advance.

These are usually best used for integrating subs and speakers.

I will use mine to integrate my low sub with my MBMs and my speakers.

 

[WmAx]

The other day I was reading an article about active crossovers and it got me wondering if I could replace the passive crossovers in my Behringer 2030s with an active unit. I know they're pretty cheap, so the improvements probably won't be that great. However, I am planning on building one of TLS's designs later this summer and I could recycle the active crossover for use in those. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? I would actually save money using something like the Behringer cx2310 v. building the passive circuits and am curious if this will provide a sonic benefit, or even be feasible. Thanks in advance.

The CX2310 is only for integrating subs and mains. You need the DCX2496 to replace the crossover in the speaker. If you wanted to do this I can get the settings for you to enter in the DCX, as I have a pair of 2030P speakers on hand. BTW, do not underestimate the quality of the drivers in the 2030P. They are very high quality, relatively speaking. You need to put effort into making the cabinet low in resonance. The best drivers in the world won't do yo0u any good with a resonant cabinet system.

-Chris

 

[skers_54]

The CX2310 is only for integrating subs and mains. You need the DCX2496 to replace the crossover in the speaker. If you wanted to do this I can get the settings for you to enter in the DCX, as I have a pair of 2030P speakers on hand. BTW, do not underestimate the quality of the drivers in the 2030P. They are very high quality, relatively speaking. You need to put effort into making the cabinet low in resonance. The best drivers in the world won't do yo0u any good with a resonant cabinet system.

-Chris

That's good to know about the CX2310. I modded the cabinets using rockwool and peel n' seal and fixed the air leaks that you specified in a previous post. The improvement was dramatic and actually got me interested in DIY. Do you think that converting the crossovers to active would be worthwhile, considering the cost of the DCX?

 

[lsiberian]

That's good to know about the CX2310. I modded the cabinets using rockwool and peel n' seal and fixed the air leaks that you specified in a previous post. The improvement was dramatic and actually got me interested in DIY. Do you think that converting the crossovers to active would be worthwhile, considering the cost of the DCX?

I must say that you are underestimating the DCX 2496. this device is more than a simple crossover and is very useful.

I can

EQ(with REW too)
Crossover anything.
Also it has dynamic eq settings.

I sold my receiver and got a cheaper one just so someday I can get one of these gems.

 

[WmAx]

That's good to know about the CX2310. I modded the cabinets using rockwool and peel n' seal and fixed the air leaks that you specified in a previous post. The improvement was dramatic and actually got me interested in DIY. Do you think that converting the crossovers to active would be worthwhile, considering the cost of the DCX?

The DCX will offer dramatic improvement. Since I have 2030P speakers, I can even disconnect my passive xover and find the appropriate DCX settings for you. In fact, the DCX can offer dramatic SQ improvement without removing the passive xover. This is because with the DCX you can set up specific gradient shelving filters to fine tune baffle step compensation and treble compensation, resulting in substantial improvements.

In addition, the DCX will allow you to do a great future DIY speaker system, assuming you want to invest in the proper measurement equipment and learn some basics on how to design a speaker system.

The DCX is also ideal to let you add dual subs to the 2030P speakers with perfect/seamless integration. This will be another large improvement. The 2030P should ideally be crossed at about 80Hz on up.

-Chris

 

[skers_54]

Thanks for the advise. I'm pretty sure that I'm going to give it a try. I won't be able to do it until later this summer, once I get some money in my pocket. I built a Kappa sub a month or so ago that should benefit from integration with the DCX as well. I'm pretty excited about this project. Should help keep me sane through my first month of med school.