A/C remote unintentionally controlling backlighting

[rojo]

Yep. Google seems to know nothing of this phenomenon as far as I can tell. It seems that at least portions of the IR signals used by my window A/C unit also trigger various color changes on my LED strip. But not the other way around. My backlighting remote doesn't trigger any changes to the A/C unit.

I tried programming my Harmony remote to control the A/C unit. The Harmony database didn't have my specific A/C model, a Kenmore 86052, but it did find a similar model and I was able to have it learn the rest of the buttons to fill in the gaps. Unfortunately, the Harmony has the same effect as the OEM remote. The A/C is (as far as I can tell) identical to this Frigidaire unit, whose codes also had the same effect. Alas, I tried having my Harmony simulate many other types of A/C brands and models -- each of which either could not control my A/C, or would also screw with my backlighting. I even tried changing the button press duration to "0" (whatever that means) through the troubleshooting section of the Harmony software. No avail.

I don't like sea foam green!

Luckily, my A/C is pretty much set and forget. It defaults to an Energy Saver mode that turns the fan and compressor on only when the temperature rises.

I'm not eager to disassemble the brackets and junk, box it up, return it, and find a more expensive alternative just for the IR signal conflict. I think I'll just try to remember to cup my hand around the side of the remote like I'm beaming my A/C unit a secret.

Maybe. I dunno. My phone's SPL meter app shows the A/C at 69dB at my seat. The Haier Serenity series air conditioners claim to be <50dB, and their IR codes don't seem to affect my backlighting. But they're also more expensive, and I'm broke. I'm on the fence.

 

[highfigh]

Many remotes repeat the commands three times as the default and if the command doesn't work well, it's sometimes necessary to increase or decrease the repeats.

According to Harmony's tech support, there's a limited number of companies that make IR control chips and the chip's commands are generic when the equipment manufacturers get them. The commands may/may not have words that can be omitted and if they don't change the command(s), some may affect other equipment. Don't expect them to care- as long as it controls their own equipment, it works. I saw the same thing when I tried to control a surveillance camera DVR and it affected a Pioneer commercial plasma TV. When I called Harmony about this, the tech said it appeared to be a Toshiba controller, just from seeing the word string. I have a Parasound preamp and it pauses my Roku.

Sea Foam Green is better than Shell Pink.

 

[Alex2507]

Pass those secret messages along to your a/c until the money tree allows for the 50db open communication a/c. I just realized that I'm not 100% sure where my spl meter even IS!

 

[rojo]

Many remotes repeat the commands three times as the default and if the command doesn't work well, it's sometimes necessary to increase or decrease the repeats.

According to Harmony's tech support, there's a limited number of companies that make IR control chips and the chip's commands are generic when the equipment manufacturers get them. The commands may/may not have words that can be omitted and if they don't change the command(s), some may affect other equipment. Don't expect them to care- as long as it controls their own equipment, it works. I saw the same thing when I tried to control a surveillance camera DVR and it affected a Pioneer commercial plasma TV. When I called Harmony about this, the tech said it appeared to be a Toshiba controller, just from seeing the word string. I have a Parasound preamp and it pauses my Roku.

Sea Foam Green is better than Shell Pink.

Yeah, I guess the repeats is what I changed to 0. This is done by going to the Devices tab and clicking "Troubleshoot" on the offending device, then selecting "(device name) responds to some commands either too many times or only occasionally." Thanks for explaining my "whatever that means" thing.

What I really need to do is review the order in which my devices are powered on for each activity, and make sure the A/C is powered on before the LED strip, and powered off after.

 

[rojo]

Pass those secret messages along to your a/c until the money tree allows for the 50db open communication a/c. I just realized that I'm not 100% sure where my spl meter even IS!

I've got your spl meter on ebay at the moment. Bidding is up to $10. If I get enough for it, maybe I can afford the Haier Serenity A/C. Wish me luck!

 

[TheWarrior]

Just put a piece of folded over aluminum foil (shiny side out - it's more reflective) over the IR sensor on the air conditioner.

That's sarcasm, but there is a point: block the sensor on A/C unit!

 

[highfigh]

Yeah, I guess the repeats is what I changed to 0. This is done by going to the Devices tab and clicking "Troubleshoot" on the offending device, then selecting "(device name) responds to some commands either too many times or only occasionally." Thanks for explaining my "whatever that means" thing.

What I really need to do is review the order in which my devices are powered on for each activity, and make sure the A/C is powered on before the LED strip, and powered off after.

You can also add delays between the commands. What model of remote?

 

[rojo]

Just put a piece of folded over aluminum foil (shiny side out - it's more reflective) over the IR sensor on the air conditioner.

That's sarcasm, but there is a point: block the sensor on A/C unit!

Covering the IR sensor on the A/C unit wouldn't solve anything -- only make me get up out of my chair to manipulate the controls. I know, first world problems, right?

You can also add delays between the commands. What model of remote?

The offending IR signals are single commands, not sequences. Delays don't apply here. When I hit Temp+, my lights turn purple. When I hit Temp-, my lights turn sea foam green. The power on/off signal makes the lights turn light blue. One of the buttons makes my lights power off, and another makes them strobe. Fun!

The remote is a Harmony One, but these color changes occur with the Kenmore (rebranded Frigidaire) OEM remote as well. It might also be important to note that I'm using the classic Harmony software, not the more modern MyHarmony software. The classic just works better for most things, although it doesn't offer power off sequence customization.

In any case, I already have a plan. I'm rearranging the device power on sequence, and I'll just cross my fingers and see whether the changes I made also make the lights power off before the A/C. When I get home I'll update the programming on the remote and see how it works. If it doesn't, I've also read that I can contact Logitech's support staff and have them rearrange the order the devices power off. If all else fails, I could change the power on button for my LED lights to be multiple keys (power on, then favorite color).

Or I could take my A/C back and pick up a similar Haier for the same price from a different store -- just not one of the Serenity series. Amazon reviews are poorer for those, though -- some saying it's louder than other A/C units.

 

[highfigh]

The offending IR signals are single commands, not sequences. Delays don't apply here. When I hit Temp+, my lights turn purple. When I hit Temp-, my lights turn sea foam green. The power on/off signal makes the lights turn light blue. One of the buttons makes my lights power off, and another makes them strobe. Fun!

The remote is a Harmony One, but these color changes occur with the Kenmore (rebranded Frigidaire) OEM remote as well. It might also be important to note that I'm using the classic Harmony software, not the more modern MyHarmony software. The classic just works better for most things, although it doesn't offer power off sequence customization.

In any case, I already have a plan. I'm rearranging the device power on sequence, and I'll just cross my fingers and see whether the changes I made also make the lights power off before the A/C. When I get home I'll update the programming on the remote and see how it works. If it doesn't, I've also read that I can contact Logitech's support staff and have them rearrange the order the devices power off. If all else fails, I could change the power on button for my LED lights to be multiple keys (power on, then favorite color).

Or I could take my A/C back and pick up a similar Haier for the same price from a different store -- just not one of the Serenity series. Amazon reviews are poorer for those, though -- some saying it's louder than other A/C units.

Does the Harmony One use a hub? If so, you could use an IR emitter on the AC and assign a port on the hub for that and not send the commands directly from the remote. It may be a long wire from the hub to the AC, or you could place the hub close to the AC, but that should work.

 

[rojo]

That's a pretty good idea, although it's the LED strip that needs isolated since that's the gadget reading false positive ir signals. Unfortunately the One doesn't have a hub / retransmitter.

Ultimately, I'm making a bigger deal about the issue than it really is. I've been watching tv all evening since coming home from work and haven't had to perform a single adjustment to the climate. The ir conflict is unfortunate, but my need to control the ac won't be frequent.

I'm leaning toward keeping everything as-is, quirks and all.