Crimping & Soldering - Keys to Connection Performance and Longevity

[admin]

Audio and Video Cables are not just dependent on the wire or cable used, or the connectors used. The quality of the connection between the wire or cable and connector is just as important, if not more so. The biggest problem with the audio/video cable market is that marketing departments choose fads and fallacies, non-applicable specifications and pseudo science over real world objective measurements and tried and true methods of creating wire and cable assemblies that will last for many years with high quality results. Today we're going to look at those unsung heroes of our A/V world, the ones that hold it all together - the crimp and the solder joints.


Discuss "Crimping & Soldering - Keys to Connection Performance and Longevity" here. Read the article.

[jneutron]

A well written piece. My thanks to AH and Ram.

I recommend the inclusion of an additional rule for solder joints.

If possible, do not use the solder as the sole support of the wire. The pictures of the yellow and brown wire have the bare conductor going through the hole, and bent back towards the insulated wire. That is how it should be. Many times, people (me included) will simply tin the conductor and terminal and lay it on the terminal for soldering such that only a lap joint is there. In xlr and D sub connectors for example, you may not have a choice.

Good work..

Thanks, John

[Alex2507]

Perfect timing on this as I now have some crossovers to build.

[lsiberian]

Originally Posted by Alex2507

Perfect timing on this as I now have some crossovers to build.

I need to do some soldering too. I'm calling it. Prophet!

[tsteves]

jneutron
Thanks for the kind words. Your point is fantastic. There are plenty of solder joints that have to be made without a good mechanical connection between parts. Solder cups is an excellent example, or soldering a ground wire to the back of a potentiometer inside a guitar. The way to treat these situations is to keep the wire and contact in as close physical contact with each other as is possible while soldering. The solder should flow into all of the minute gaps but never be used to form a "bridge" between the wire and contact. For example with cups, you don't stick the wire into the middle of the cup, you lay it against the inside of the cup. We all get a bit lazy sometimes when doing our own personal cables, but if you force yourself to get into good habits, you usually just start to do it the right way all the time naturally.

Tom Steves
RAM Electronics

[JLMEMT]

Me three!

Though I have never done circuit boards before, so hopefully it goes well.

[Djizasse]

Originally Posted by Alex2507

Perfect timing on this as I now have some crossovers to build.

Perfect timing indeed. And thanks for the tip John

I do have a RS6's crossover that's expected to arrive this week.

Also on the way are a few XLR, TRS and RCA plugs. I'll make a few cables to connect the DCX to my new computer pre-amp interface, to the receiver and to the sub's amp.

To top it up I need to finish my led mood light for the back of the LCD.

Prophet indeed

[Alex2507]

Here's a pretty informative link to some soldering stuff:

http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/

I'm posting it here thinking it will be of additional help to us.

[Midcow2]

Reiterating a soldering joint should not be the only physical support; It is better to twist the wires and make a physical connection before soldering if possible. In addtion it is better if you clamp the wire with a smal solder spring clamp rather than trying to hold it with your free hand.This assures you don't get a cold solder.

While not found much more, do not use acid core solder on electrical circuits; use only rosin core solder.

Although it didn't really say in the article, too get the best capillary actionand not get excessive solder, it is best to heat the wire and touch the solder to the wire. This is not necessarily true with printed circuit boards.

Printed circuit boards are even more of an art form and you need to practice practive before attempting. You need to use as low of heat soldering irorn as possible and very careful not to over heat or touch adjacent components. If you are just starting and especially on integrated circuits, it is safer to solder a separate socket and then plug in the IC. Again printed circuit board you have to have enough heat to get a good solder joint (not a cold solder joint) and not so much that you burn the circuit board or another component.
Too bad Heathkits not longer exist; they were a great way to hone your soldering skills as wee as the Dynaco kits.

Solder flux is good to remove excess solder or to un-solder a component. there are also some inexpensive one handed sprint loaded vacuums that will suck up liquid solder.

Crimping is okay if you have the proper equipment for the correct size wire; personally like soldering better! Crimping seems to to be a good match for automobile electrical connections, but IHO not the best audio solution for DIY.If you need to check with the "pull test" then you probably should not be crimping! I tend to stay completely away from spade connectors unless the are the closed circle kind; even with a secure wire connection the connector nut can come loose. Crimping is okay for banana plugs as long as you have the exact equipment desigend for the banana plugs. I like banana plugs much better that are the locking kind with set screws to secure the wre and also the expansion point to secure the banana connection into the audio equipment.


Good Luck!

MidCow2

P.S. - And just how many soldering irons should a person have ?

P.S.S - Now that I am retired, I just don't seem to have any free time

[tsteves]

Alex2507
Great link, and very good info.
I'd just say that the soldering iron choice is very important. Hakko and Hexacon irons can be found cheap on ebay. I use a Hakko solder station, as well as an ancient hexacon with an ancient, but well cared for tip. Don't use more wattage than you need, especially for circuit boards. Clean the tip constantly!