Danley Sound Labs THSPUD

Matt34

Matt34

Moderator
RMK!, where is the "port" in that 2d drawing? I can't make it out if it's there.
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
RMK!, where is the "port" in that 2d drawing? I can't make it out if it's there.
It isn't shown on that drawing but is on the top right corner of the drawing same side as the drivers. The port has three possible hatch positions, edge, or either face side in that corner. The hatchs are held by 10 screws and can be swapped out for different port options depending on location/orientation. There is a grille that is installed over the port opening. Pretty cool concept.:cool:
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
thanks for the pic RMK. was curious on how this worked.

can someone explain the wiring to me? i've never seen single voice coil wiring diagrams on the net (only DVC's or single VC parallel)
 
H

Highbar

Senior Audioholic
I originally was thinking that the port was going to be in the lower right corner of the drawing that would make it easier to switch out the drivers. Since they sent you knew drivers for the old sub how can you get into the box to replace them? Do the sides come off? With what I would presume, many many screws, since the port cover has 10? That's all. Can't wait to hear how two of them sound:)
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
I originally was thinking that the port was going to be in the lower right corner of the drawing that would make it easier to switch out the drivers. Since they sent you knew drivers for the old sub how can you get into the box to replace them? Do the sides come off? With what I would presume, many many screws, since the port cover has 10? That's all. Can't wait to hear how two of them sound:)
There are two hatches (not ports) in the driver corner that allow access to the drivers. The project does require a good quality and small electric screwdriver;).
 
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rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
One potato, two potato ...

I received the second TH-SPUD Friday and set them up in a front location yesterday. In moving the SPUD(s) 15’ away from the LP, I have lost a bit of the incredible tactile that the nearfield position generated but they sound better. The dual SPUD’s have more “impact” than my quad Fathoms but maintain the excellent SQ of the Fathoms.

While I acknowledge that my HT has become decidedly un-WAF friendly, as a friend of mine put it, “any guy who doesn’t like the industrial look of the JTR/SPUD combo should have his testicles checked”. That should quash any of the whiney “I liked the room better before” posts:p.

The new "improved;)" front soundstage;



Driver pics (as promised). Old on the left


and one (under the hood) of the open hatch with old drivers in place
 
H

Highbar

Senior Audioholic
That's a lot of bass up front. I like the way it looks. Wish I had a room I could do that to... and the money to do it :):(
Just get a third to put near field:D Than you'll have the best of both worlds.
 
mike c

mike c

Audioholic Warlord
In moving the SPUD(s) 15’ away from the LP, I have lost a bit of the incredible tactile that the nearfield position generated but they sound better.
i think you know and i know what the next step is ... :D

(thanks for the driver pics btw) :)

two more spuds at the back so you can make mashed potato
 
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rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
i think you know and i know what the next step is ... :D

(thanks for the driver pics btw) :)

two more spuds at the back so you can make mashed potato
I have said this before,but I'm going to sit tight with the current audio for a while. In the past, I could always reach the limits of the subs and induce over excursion and bottoming. That includes my quad Fathoms or the dual PB13's we tested at the GTG last year.

With the single SPUD nearfield I was able to reach bottom on extreme LFE material at high SPL but since adding the second SPUD, I have not been able to find this limit in my room. That is not to say that they can't be over driven but it has not happened yet and believe me, I tried;).

With the nearfield position the bass was incredibly intense from a tactile perspective but for me (and some of the guys who heard it) it was a little too intense :eek:. Now it is perfectly matched with the LCR's and incredibly fast and clean. It is the most realistic sounding LFE I have ever heard. The Danley Fireworks demo is a lot of fun:D.

It is now time to start working on getting the video up to this level of performance.
 
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P

pcasper

Audiophyte
RMK,

Hmmm. Are you sure the port is not in the lower left hand corner of the drawing? That would normally be where I would expect the port of a tapped sub to be.

Paul
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
RMK,

Hmmm. Are you sure the port is not in the lower left hand corner of the drawing? That would normally be where I would expect the port of a tapped sub to be.

Paul
You are correct sir ... my bad:eek:
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
Those new subs look beefier too...and I have the same rechargeable Skil driver as you.:p Handy little thing isn't it?
Yeah, I love that little Skill ... comes in handy when working close quarters like with the SPUD drivers.
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
I have spent the last few days trying to find something I don’t like about this subwoofer and have failed miserably. Originally, I placed the single THSPUD on a side wall. With that placement, I was able to bottom the SPUD with the same LFE intense scenes that had caused all of the other subs I have heard/owned to go into distress.

Moving the single to a nearfield placement directly behind the HT seating produced fantastic results in terms of unbelievable tactile response as well as clean well articulated bass. That said, I did not like the effect of Buttkickers and even though the nearfield THSPUD was more natural feeling, I (and my now bass crazy SO) found the extreme shaking effects distracting. That said if you like Buttkickers, you would love the THSPUD nearfield.

The idea of adding the second SPUD was so that I might achieve most of the tactile I was getting from the single nearfield placement but with the subs in the front of the room 16’ away. I wanted a more full frontal assault in your face kind of feeling and I wanted to be able to drive them really hard with no bottoming.

After EQ’ing and performing phase and level adjustments with my Velo SMS-1 and then running Audyssey MultiEQ, the results are simply spectacular. Musically, the SPUD’s are every bit as clean and accurate as my JL Audio Fathoms but the tactile, immersive bass they produce is the best I have heard/felt.

There are many superlatives I could use to describe the THSPUDS but suffice to say that if you looking for a uber bass sub and have a space that can accommodate its unusual size and industrial look, this sub deserves consideration. As with any sub, pairs are even better;).

The three placements I tried are:

Side wall

Nearfield (under beanbag:p)

Front
 
Seth=L

Seth=L

Audioholic Overlord
Which arrangement for the subwoofers do you like the most? I would think that placing them in the front would produce the most accurate and sonically pleasing performance.
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
Which arrangement for the subwoofers do you like the most? I would think that placing them in the front would produce the most accurate and sonically pleasing performance.
Despite the size (48"X45"X11") they actually give you many palcement options with the most obvious being as (or inside) a riser in an HT. Standing wall can also work well as they are only 11" deep.

I am liking them best in the front location for the reasons you mentioned and a few others. Eventually, I would like to add a screen wall that will hide the subs and speakers.
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
This is the location I have been living with for the last month or so. Per some suggestions from the designer, I moved the THSPUDS horn exit ports outboard effectively corner loading them. This has provided more SPL and a nice flat frequency response from below 20hz to 200hz.

I’m going to host a little GTG at the end of the month and a couple of Audioholics forum members have been invited. Hopefully they will attend and post their comments.



Velo FR Graph

 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
You will notice that I deleted a number of Photo’s from my Photobucket album that is linked in this Thread. I did this because a DIY’er w as using the line drawing and internal photos I naively posted here for a cloning DIY project. I have to thank an Audioholics Forum member for pointing this out to me.

I have nothing against DIY’ers or their efforts but they were posting the linked pics on another Forum and publicizing the address of my Photobucket account. I did not want my informational posting of the THSPUD design to contribute to this cloning effort. If they want to reverse engineer let em buy one and have at it.

BTW, the build I saw was a very poor replica of what I own. The THSPUD continues to produce the best LFE I have heard.
 
H

Highbar

Senior Audioholic
Good for you for taking down the pics. I agree with you, if they want to clone one they should buy one. Even if it looked good online I'm sure the clone wont sound nearly as good.
 
rmk

rmk

Audioholic Chief
TH-SPUD Redux

I decided to spin this thread up again as this product is not getting it's due. For anyone building a dedicated HT room that includes a riser, this sub in this application is ideal.

If you follow the link to my HT thread there are comments and a couple of pics.
 

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