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  #1  
Old 07-05-2008, 10:34 PM
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Default Haoleb's Kappa Perfect 12vq MidQ Build Thread

Alrighty, Here is going to be a step by step (sortof) build thread of the Infinity Kappa perfect 12vq MidQ subwoofer designed by our very own members avaserfi and WmAx. This is the first build thread of this subwoofer so if your intersted keep reading! The plans to this subwoofer can be referenced in this thread:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...925#post429925

I am building two of these to be used in a strictly 2 channel system as a stereo pair. Powering them will be the Behringer EP2500, For the crossover, The Behringer DCX2496 and for the driver the Infinity Kappa perfect 12vq using the MidQ insert. For the cabinet I am using 3/4 inch Birch 7ply which I purchased at lowes for $55 per 4x8' sheet. I am building the sub exactly as specified in the other thread with the exception of the front panel which is going to be two peices of the 3/4 ply laminated together to allow me to flush mount the driver.

For two subs I needed just over 2 1/2 sheets of the plywood. I originally figured one sheet per sub, but forgot that I needed TWO sides and a top AND bottom. DOH!


Build Day One

Bought the plywood today and got all my peices cut. Everything is within 1/32 tolerance or less (took some time to square everything and reset the saw exactly for each cut of a new dimension. Luckly I have my dad to help rip the peices because its not a one person job ripping full sheets of plywood to exacting specifications on a table saw.



To get the most out of the plywood I ripped things according to size starting from the biggest down to the smallest. The first cut was ripping the sheet right down the middle at 24" Then going down the line to the smaller peices.

Before starting I printed out the pictures and cut list and then labeled each peice with a letter which makes it much easier to identify which peices are which and also which peices go where in the diagrams.





Once all my peices were cut I decided to start with the upper portion of the port, I rounded over the edges that are going to be the "intake" of sorts for air, It would look better for the roundovers if everything was put together with 45 degree cuts but since this is inside the subwoofer I dont really care. I know that it would have been better to have a bigger flare but this is the roundover bit I had so its going to have to do. I dont think I'll be able to round over the slot in the front of the sub though without cutting it into a bunch of peices and then re assembling it which I am not going to do as it would only weaken the front baffle and make things more complicated.



I very lightly sanded the peices with some 220 grit on a sanding block made from a peice of wood not needed. before gluing them to make sure all my edges are square.



My two upper port portions glued and nailed together with a brad nailer.



For glue I'm using some titebond 3, I have a bunch of titebond 2 already but this says its the strongest there is so.. whatever. I'll give it a try I also used a small peice as a spacer to make sure the 3/4" that overhangs to join with the next part of the port on the back was exactly 3/4" When sanding I like to use the wood block as it will not round over your edges and will allow you to sand very evenly. I am only doing a light sanding to remove any dirt and anything left behind from the saw even though I did install a new blade before starting.

Thats it for today! I'll just keep assembling the inside parts for now because I need to wait for my drivers and binding posts to arrive before I can really finish the front and back panels and make this thing start looking like a real sub. Stay Tuned!
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Last edited by Haoleb; 07-05-2008 at 10:40 PM.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Haoleb For This Useful Post:
Adam (07-05-2008), Djizasse (07-06-2008), Matt34 (02-23-2009)

  #2  
Old 07-05-2008, 10:40 PM
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Impressive! You are very fast. Andrew just put that thread up a couple of days ago. Nicely done.
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Old 07-05-2008, 10:42 PM
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Impressive! You are very fast. Andrew just put that thread up a couple of days ago. Nicely done.
When I get my mind set on something I just go and do it. I only decided I wanted to build these yesterday afternoon.
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Old 07-05-2008, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Haoleb View Post
A
For glue I'm using some titebond 3, I have a bunch of titebond 2 already but this says its the strongest there is so.. whatever.
In actual 3rd party analysis/comparison, subjecting joints to measured force, standard aliphatic resin is the strongest glue. Titebond Original is aliphatic resin. II and III are ironically, weaker, at least for dry indoor use, as compared to outdoor use and moisture exposure use, where the newer formulations may have specific advantages.

-Chris
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Old 07-05-2008, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Haoleb View Post
When I get my mind set on something I just go and do it. I only decided I wanted to build these yesterday afternoon.
I am a huge procrastinator, so I'm very impressed with this! I really look forward to seeing your progress on it. Andrew's CAD diagrams are great (and I'm sure that he and Chris have been helping out a lot more than just that), but seeing real world photos of a work in progress are very educational.
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Old 07-05-2008, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by WmAx View Post
In actual 3rd party analysis/comparison, subjecting joints to measured force, standard aliphatic resin is the strongest glue. Titebond Original is aliphatic resin. II and III are ironically, weaker, at least for dry indoor use, as compared to outdoor use and moisture exposure use, where the newer formulations may have specific advantages.

-Chris
I'm just going to pretend that you didnt say that...

Now i'll Probably wake up having nightmares of my subs blowing apart because I used the number 3 vs the original!

I did a little test gluing some scrap peices of mahogany together butt jointed with just glue and I only let it dry for an hour or two and had a hard time tearing it apart with just my hands so I think it will be sufficient once its fully cured and nailed.
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Old 07-05-2008, 11:36 PM
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Just realized I made my first goof. When I decided to do 2 sheets of ply for the front baffle I didnt look closely enough at the design to see that it sits Inside, I thought it mounted on the outside of the other panels. I did not account for having the added 3/4 inch when I cut my second set of front baffles so that they could cover all the sides and top. Of course, This is only 20 minutes after I laminated my first two panels and I could not get them back apart.

Luckly I have two more front baffles and some extra plywood.

If I were to just laminate a small portion, big enough to allow for the driver mounting flush how is the decreased volume in the sub going to affect performance? I dont have a plunge router or a circle jig so I may end up just giving the flush mounting the old boot anyway and sticking with the original plans.
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Old 07-05-2008, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Haoleb View Post
I'm just going to pretend that you didnt say that...

Now i'll Probably wake up having nightmares of my subs blowing apart because I used the number 3 vs the original!

I did a little test gluing some scrap peices of mahogany together butt jointed with just glue and I only let it dry for an hour or two and had a hard time tearing it apart with just my hands so I think it will be sufficient once its fully cured and nailed.
No worries here. My original build used number 3 due to weather conditions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haoleb View Post
If I were to just laminate a small portion, big enough to allow for the driver mounting flush how is the decreased volume in the sub going to affect performance? I dont have a plunge router or a circle jig so I may end up just giving the flush mounting the old boot anyway and sticking with the original plans.
The volume change would most likely not be substantial enough to change performance noticeably.
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Old 07-06-2008, 12:07 AM
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Keep the build updates coming...very interesting.
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:55 AM
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This is very interesting. Thanks Haoleb
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