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I can't find any reference to verify this, there were no specs for the resolution on the HDMI-out. Has anyone tried this?

Hi BoredSysAdmin, Not a bad choice for $280, but max resolution is only 1024 x 600, which is not even capable of 720P (1280×720), let alone 1080P. I have yet to find a netbook or laptop with HDMI and HD for under $400.

Reading about the Revue some more, it appears it has been plagued with multiple bugs, and a lot of networks are blocking Google TV, so it has been a tough start for Logitech. However, everyone raves about the concept of being able to search content everywhere. Does anyone have one that can...

Interesting idea, I looked at netbooks about a year ago, but found the HDMI out was difficult to find. What models are out there today? I'll take a look at them again, but right now I prefer a dedicated device.

This summer we'll be spending a lot of time at a beach house, which is equipped with TV, older DVD, and basic cable. I want to be able to stream and watch movies. I just want a relatively portable external device for Netflix, Amazon, Hulu and likely Vudu. If it is capable of music streaming...

Why? Ease of use, one cable connection, etc. It's not mandatory, but would be ideal. BluRay would also be nice to connect via HDMI. I guess if I go this route then I don't need a mini or micro system. I may as well look at full size AVRs.

Not to make things more complicated, but I just realized I can kill two birds with one shot here by including a DVD in this system. So, I looked at this unit: TEAC DR-H338i The trouble is, although it has an HDMI output, it surprisingly has no HDMI inputs at all. I would need at least two...

I don't know how I missed the Denon on Amazon. I'll take a closer look at it. Now you guys having thinking about buying separate components, whereas I was originally thinking all-in-one. This is good food for thought. I'd still prefer an all-in-one, but if that doesn't exist, then components...

Thanks for the suggestion. Options 1 is a bit light, Option 2 is a bit small, not quite what I had in mind. #3 could be interesting though if I find the right components to go with it.

I've got an aging Yamaha mini system, and my spouse has been grumbling and threatening to throw it out for the past year, so I need something to replace it with. The trouble is I've made the rounds at the big box stores and can't find anything that has what I need. Here are my needs...

Sure... I have other UPSs around the house and at work for computers. The idea was not to run off it for any extended period of time, it is to avoid hard crashes. But the batteries will go bad no matter what, most only last about 3-4 years, even with minimal use. FPL frequently has these...

$250 for the 1500VA is not bad, but not cheap either. It all depends how annoyed I am with FPL when I go to pull the trigger on this. On Saturday, while I was playing Bad Company 2 with my son, we had 4 brown-outs in less than 2 hours. That really pissed me off.

That is exactly the one I'm currently looking at. But I think I'm going to buy the little Kill A Watt device to take some measurements first to make sure it will support my system.

This is not enough for what I want to do. I don't need my components running off a bunch of different individual UPSs. I want to use one UPS capable of supporting the entire system. I'm currently looking at this 1500VA (980 watts) from APC. I spoke to UPS4Less and he advised me that I need to...

Ok... but I need to power my TV, my Denon AVR, my Motorola (comcast) DVR and one other component (XBox, PS3 or Oppo DVD player) all simulataneously. Would it be possible to do that on say a 950watt UPS? I found a couple of sites now that rate the power of the Samsung Plasma at 380 watts, but not...

I'm not sure I understand your question. I plugged the PPS unit into the wall socket, and then I plugged the PF60 into the UPS. The TV and all my audio gear is plugged into the PF60. This might help, showing power flow in sequence: 1-Wall socket>> 2-UPS>> 3-PF60 4-TV & audio gear.

According to CNet, the TV requires (watts) 412.85 in default settings. After calibration 266.66, and in powersave mode 369.57. I have set the TV up exactly as CNet recommends, so I should be very close to 266 watts, let's say 300 watts to be safe. My battery is rated at 540 watts, 1000VA, so...

I currently have HT system going through my PureAV power console, which works great. But FPL seems to give lousy power and we get a bunch of very short split-second brown-outs every week or so, which trips my PureAV and shuts it down until I reset it. During the downtime any schedule recordings...

No, I haven't tried it. I've got it wired to my Motorola DVR, 1080i, and it has been flawless.

Talked to the BJC folks, they said there is nothing they can do (as I suspected). However, out of sympathy they offered to sell me a b-stock (return) Series-2 cable for half off retail. When I asked for the actual price, my email bounced back for some reason. Oh well, it was nice of them to...