Looking for suggestions for $700 integrated amplifier for SVS Ultra bookshelf

[2channel lover]

http://outlawaudio.com/products/rr2160.html

Perfecto! This would be my choice. Plenty of power to drive most speakers. The new one is now network friendly and if gives him another source if he ever wants to use the radio tuner.

 

[2channel lover]

First of all, I wanna thank you all for your effort.

After all, I have decided to stick with an Integrated Amplifier and go up a notch in my budget and manage to narrow down to 3 int. amps :

Cambridge Audio CXA60 $749

Yamaha A-S701 $799

Cambridge Audio CXA80 $999

I have a couple more questions as well:
1. What sets the Cambridge Audio CXA80 apart from the CXA60 and Yamaha A-S701? Is it the features or sound quality or something else?
2. In your opinion, (since sound could be a subjective matter), what is the best $1000 integrated amplifier?
I have absolutely no problems going a bit beyond the $1000 mark if it is really worth it, so any suggestions will be much help to me!

On the electronics...obviously an AVR offers more value than a IA or a Stereo Receiver. All 3 of the options you listed will work fine.

It really seems like this unit will only serve one function, music for the bedroom and limited sources. For that reason I liked the Outlaw rr2160 L garcia suggested...it's purely music, plenty of power, easy connectivity for your ipod, capable of hi res playback should want to connect a laptop to it, offers radio tuner as another source.

But the real reason I posted here...the speaker...the Ultra BS by all accounts is a great speaker. Just putting this out there as another option. I think you can get comparable performance for a little less money with the HSU CCB-8 book shelf speaker. A fairly new speaker that's getting rave reviews from pro reviewers and owners...saves about $300. I think the mini Phils were already suggested...those might be the best of the lot, and would be my choice if SQ is importmant, but they are built to order.

Good luck with it.

 

[PENG]

I like the Outlaw too, but he has decided to stick with integrated amp.

 

[2channel lover]

Not that an IA is a bad decision...curious as to what drove it though.

 

[KEW]

I was impressed with the Yamaha A-S series integrated amps, until I search and found some bench test results on the older A-S500, 2000, and 3000. Their test results seemed worse than their AVR's, I had to re-read them a few times as I found that hard to believe.

Strangely, the AS-700 measures pretty strong. I wonder if the tests you read had the Yamaha impedance switch on the back in the low-impedance position (or am I misinterpreting these test results?).
(Note - Australian currency for pricing)
http://www.avhub.com.au/product-reviews/hi-fi/yamaha-a-s700-integrated-amplifier-393552

Don't bother to read the linked pages, but, rather, go to page three and click the "Test Results" image. I believe it includes the same text, but adds charts and graphs of test results.

This is marketing stupidity on Yamaha's part! If you are measuring performance at 4 ohms, per Yamaha's design you would engage the low-Z switch. If the amps you researched showed poor performance into 4 ohms, I think this may likely be the culprit. AH reviews of Yamaha equipment with this switch have stated several times that you should not ever use the Low-Z under any normal circumstance.

Laboratory Test Results
The Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde nature of the Yamaha A-S700’s power supply/output stage management has meant that when it’s driving loads greater than 8Ω, using the ‘High’ setting of the impedance selector, its power output is very high indeed. As you can see from the tabulated figures, and also from the bar graphs accompanying the main part of the review, when only a single channel is driven into a 4Ω load, using a 1kHz test signal, the A-S700 puts out a stunning 256-watts continuous per channel. Under such load conditions the power output drops a little at the frequency extremes, but it’s still greater than 200-watts per channel. Using the usual ‘both channels driven into 8Ω’ criteria that is the accepted industry standard for measuring power output, the Yamaha A-S700 delivers a minimum power output of 115-watts per channel at 20Hz, but can manage a little more at higher frequencies, to the tune of 130-watts at 1kHz and 127- watts at 20kHz. The only situation in which the Yamaha didn’t deliver at least 90-watts per channel into the test loads was when its impedance selector was set to ‘Low’ and it was being driven by a very low-frequency (20Hz) test signal, under which conditions it fell a little shy, returning just 82-watts per channel, which as you can see by comparing the dBW columns, is just 0.4dB down on rated output.

I am pretty sure that the A-S701 is the same amp as the A-S700, but adds a DAC and "auto power on-off" modes.

If we look at it from the defacto magazine test standard of continuous power into 2 channels at 1kHz (and with switch on high impedance setting) it delivers 130W into 8 ohms and 190W into 4 ohms.

 

[KEW]

All in all, I think the Outlaw Stereo receiver is the best option.
It is a solid amp section with decent bass management. Think of it as an integrated amp with a tuner built-in. It is definitely no AVR.

However, the looks of the Outlaw may be an issue. I like it, but it won't "blend-in" with any of my other gear. Whether it fits Andrew's aesthetic is his call.

 

[PENG]

Strangely, the AS-700 measures pretty strong. I wonder if the tests you read had the Yamaha impedance switch on the back in the low-impedance position (or am I misinterpreting these test results?).
(Note - Australian currency for pricing)
http://www.avhub.com.au/product-reviews/hi-fi/yamaha-a-s700-integrated-amplifier-393552

Don't bother to read the linked pages, but, rather, go to page three and click the "Test Results" image. I believe it includes the same text, but adds charts and graphs of test results.

This is marketing stupidity on Yamaha's part! If you are measuring performance at 4 ohms, per Yamaha's design you would engage the low-Z switch. If the amps you researched showed poor performance into 4 ohms, I think this may likely be the culprit. AH reviews of Yamaha equipment with this switch have stated several times that you should not ever use the Low-Z under any normal circumstance.



I am pretty sure that the A-S701 is the same amp as the A-S700, but adds a DAC and "auto power on-off" modes.

If we look at it from the defacto magazine test standard of continuous power into 2 channels at 1kHz (and with switch on high impedance setting) it delivers 130W into 8 ohms and 190W into 4 ohms.

I have read that review before and that was one reason I was impressed too. It is hard to compare one to another if the testing equipment, and methodologies are not the same. So I based my observation on the test data from the AVtech website where they tested the A-S500, 1000, 2000, 3000 and some old AVR models such as the RX-V2400, 2600 and 3900. Most of them were listed as "failed" in some of the tests, but you can see that the integrated were better in some tests while worse in others, than those AVRs. Overall, they were worse than the Denon AVR-3805, 3808 and 4308, in all the important tests.

http://www.milleraudioresearch.com/avtech/

Again, those are the objective stuff, subjectively, I still think mid range AVRs from Yamaha, D&M and integrated amps in the same price range will all sound more or less equally good.

 

[PENG]

All in all, I think the Outlaw Stereo receiver is the best option.
It is a solid amp section with decent bass management. Think of it as an integrated amp with a tuner built-in. It is definitely no AVR.

However, the looks of the Outlaw may be an issue. I like it, but it won't "blend-in" with any of my other gear. Whether it fits Andrew's aesthetic is his call.

I think it has been surpassed by the $999 Denon AVR-X3400H. The 3400's advantages are:

- AK4458 DAC, the same one found in the Marantz flag ship model SR7011, ability to play DSD
- Audyssey XT32 Sub EQ HT plus Audyssey Editor App.

https://usa.denon.com/us/news/news/182

Obviously there are no bench test results for the X3400H, but there is a full review with bench test results, right here at AH for it's predecessor, the X3300W.

http://www.audioholics.com/av-receiver-reviews/denon-avr-x3300w-1/conclusion

Back to the OP, since he insists on integrated, I highly recommend the Anthem Integrated 225, currently available at the seemingly unbeatable Amazon price of $1,279.

 

[KEW]

I agree that an AVR gets him some real benefits (especially XT32 for management of sub(s)).
I was hoping to make the case that the Outlaw was much like an IA. Style-wise with bass and treble knobs, two channel amp, and not requiring a TV to operate, it fits somewhere between an integrated and an AVR.

 

[PENG]

I agree that an AVR gets him some real benefits (especially XT32 for management of sub(s)).
I was hoping to make the case that the Outlaw was much like an IA. Style-wise with bass and treble knobs, two channel amp, and not requiring a TV to operate, it fits somewhere between an integrated and an AVR.

Very true, in fact if they remove the tuner, they instantly have an integrated amp product that they can market for say $50 less.

 

[2channel lover]

Very true, in fact if they remove the tuner, they instantly have an integrated amp product that they can market for say $50 less.

I don't think the RR2160 can win the value debate...it's really just an old school product, seemingly perfect for the OPs application. I like the tuner...ability to pick up ball games on radio, or simply for tuner music in a pinch.

IMO the retro cosmetics hold it back more than it helps it, but they had a chance to change that and they didn't so maybe I'm wrong. It doesn't bother me, I was seriously think of buying it power my whole house, but when the scope changed from 2 room to 3, I backed off.

 

[Andrew Huynh]

the more i re-read u guys's comment, the more i lean towards the AVR considering the features and overall value that AVR has to offer. So finally, i decided to settle down with the Denon AVR X3300W instead of an integrated amplifier. Thank you guys a lot for ur suggestions! really appreciate it!!!

 

[Andrew Huynh]

There is still one thing that I don't understand despite already googling a lot. As the Denon AVR-X3300W does not have any PC input ( It has all other inputs: CD,DVD, Bluray, Game, but not PC). How do I connect my iMac to the receiver? What would be the optimal method to connect my iMac to receiver? ( I've learned from researching that USB connection gives the best sound quality but that would necessitate an external DAC, which I don't wanna do)

 

[rojo]

There is still one thing that I don't understand despite already googling a lot. As the Denon AVR-X3300W does not have any PC input ( It has all other inputs: CD,DVD, Bluray, Game, but not PC). How do I connect my iMac to the receiver? What would be the optimal method to connect my iMac to receiver? ( I've learned from researching that USB connection gives the best sound quality but that would necessitate an external DAC, which I don't wanna do)

Does your iMac's video card have HDMI out? If so, that'll be the way to go. If not, does its sound card have a digital coax or optical output?

By the way, the CD, DVD, Blu-Ray, and Game inputs on the AVR aren't limited to their namesake sources. You can plug whatever source into any of them as you see fit -- your iMac, for example.

 

[lovinthehd]

There is still one thing that I don't understand despite already googling a lot. As the Denon AVR-X3300W does not have any PC input ( It has all other inputs: CD,DVD, Bluray, Game, but not PC). How do I connect my iMac to the receiver? What would be the optimal method to connect my iMac to receiver? ( I've learned from researching that USB connection gives the best sound quality but that would necessitate an external DAC, which I don't wanna do)

I connect my pc via any available hdmi input on my avrs, but more often simply stream over my wifi network.

 

[Pogre]

I use the media player input for mine and renamed it "HTPC". I don't think it matters.

 

[PENG]

There is still one thing that I don't understand despite already googling a lot. As the Denon AVR-X3300W does not have any PC input ( It has all other inputs: CD,DVD, Bluray, Game, but not PC). How do I connect my iMac to the receiver? What would be the optimal method to connect my iMac to receiver? ( I've learned from researching that USB connection gives the best sound quality but that would necessitate an external DAC, which I don't wanna do)

You most likely don't need an external DAC but if you do, there are $50-$100 options that should equal to or better than the DAC found in a $700 or even more expensive integrated amps.

One example is the $49 dacmagic xs ver2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015JET0N4/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1501347247&sr=8-21&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+dac&dpPl=1&dpID=51GXy63FdlL

 

[PENG]

the more i re-read u guys's comment, the more i lean towards the AVR considering the features and overall value that AVR has to offer. So finally, i decided to settle down with the Denon AVR X3300W instead of an integrated amplifier. Thank you guys a lot for ur suggestions! really appreciate it!!!

Wise decision, most who asked about AVR vs integrated or separates usually are preconceived and would go with the more expensive option regardless.

For only $50 more I hope you go for the new ones from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HL8KYAY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501347872&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=denon+avr-x3300w&psc=1&smid=A2H3DYB5PUVNNI

 

[Pogre]

I agree. The 3300 is a great deal for a great receiver. If I were still shopping for one that'd be my choice.

 

[BoredSysAdmin]

There is still one thing that I don't understand despite already googling a lot. As the Denon AVR-X3300W does not have any PC input ( It has all other inputs: CD,DVD, Bluray, Game, but not PC). How do I connect my iMac to the receiver? What would be the optimal method to connect my iMac to receiver? ( I've learned from researching that USB connection gives the best sound quality but that would necessitate an external DAC, which I don't wanna do)

look carefully into your imac headphones out. it hides a nice trick up it's sleeve.
https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/46605/how-do-i-tell-if-my-mac-supports-mini-toslink
check the 2nd answer.
then purchase this cable and you're all set:
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-27016-Toslink-Cable/dp/B0002JFN1A = For Optical Audio In (like CD in for example)
also Thunderbolt to HDMI cable is a thing and it carries audio as well.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Adapter/dp/B00NH13K8S