Integrated VS Stereo Receiver?

speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
Youtube is your friend ;)

And, I want to add......you should not have ANY differences b/w the toslink vs digi coax. They are the same signal for all practical purposes. So, if there is a difference, there must be some other setting or DSP going on that should be defeated.
I am fully aware of youtube, but for one I do not see really well due to my diabetes. Two, I am also not the kind of person that likes taking things apart and then putting them back together again. Am no expert on the toslink vs dig coax albeit one being better than the other. However, I have experienced differences in the past that has me preferring dig coax over toslink. If something should have been defeated that may very well been the case, but just to be on the safe side of things I will just stick with the dig coax. :):):)


Phil
 
S

sterling shoote

Audioholic Field Marshall
I just caught this thread and I perceive the source component here is computer audio, is that right? If that is indeed the case. A Creative Sound Blaster X-FI HD USB to S/PDIF optical interface will be the ticket for integrated amp or receiver with internal DAC to power desktop speakers. Or, if the player is iTunes, an Airport Express could provide Airplay function with an integrated amp or receiver with or without internal DAC as the Airport Express will provide DAC function or send optical S/PDIF output.
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
I just caught this thread and I perceive the source component here is computer audio, is that right? If that is indeed the case. A Creative Sound Blaster X-FI HD USB to S/PDIF optical interface will be the ticket for integrated amp or receiver with internal DAC to power desktop speakers. Or, if the player is iTunes, an Airport Express could provide Airplay function with an integrated amp or receiver with or without internal DAC as the Airport Express will provide DAC function or send optical S/PDIF output.
Yes the source will be from my computer's HDMI output into my Denon X3300. Using Zone 2 to power my Wharfedale Diamond 220's. Going to try that at first and see how it goes. If I am not too happy with going that route, then I will buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Fanmusic-FM6011-Coaxial-Converter-Digital/dp/B00A2QJK5I

This will turn my computer's USB output into a dig coax output that I will connect to my Cambridge SR 20 stereo receiver and then to my Diamond 220's. In fact, I have already ordered the coaxial converter and it is on its way to me as we speak.

That is, I plan to try both and choose which sounds best to my ears. I kind of like the Cambridge option better b/c I can use the Wolfson DAC as opposed to the X3300 DAC. Not that it is far superior, but b/c I have read a lot of good things about the Wolfson DAC's. :):):)


Phil
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Yes the source will be from my computer's HDMI output into my Denon X3300. Using Zone 2 to power my Wharfedale Diamond 220's. Going to try that at first and see how it goes. If I am not too happy with going that route, then I will buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Fanmusic-FM6011-Coaxial-Converter-Digital/dp/B00A2QJK5I

This will turn my computer's USB output into a dig coax output that I will connect to my Cambridge SR 20 stereo receiver and then to my Diamond 220's. In fact, I have already ordered the coaxial converter and it is on its way to me as we speak.

That is, I plan to try both and choose which sounds best to my ears. I kind of like the Cambridge option better b/c I can use the Wolfson DAC as opposed to the X3300 DAC. Not that it is far superior, but b/c I have read a lot of good things about the Wolfson DAC's. :):):)


Phil
Between the 3300 and SR20, if you do a spl matched blind (even single blind) test, you likely won't hear enough difference to make a easy choice. If you are going to use that $20 converter, then it could become the weak link and in that case I would bet my money on the Denon.

If you are concern about the Denon's lower quality DAC (that is possible), then I suggest you get a higher quality converter to work with the Cambridge audio SR20. By the way, your Dell has 4 spare PCIe slots so adding a good quality sound card should not be a problem at all, but that will cost more than a dac/optical/coax converter with comparable sound quality specs. So in the end, I think your original idea of using a converter is probably the way to go, just try to getting a better one.
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
Between the 3300 and SR20, if you do a spl matched blind (even single blind) test, you likely won't hear enough difference to make a easy choice. If you are going to use that $20 converter, then it could become the weak link and in that case I would bet my money on the Denon.

If you are concern about the Denon's lower quality DAC (that is possible), then I suggest you get a higher quality converter to work with the Cambridge audio SR20. By the way, your Dell has 4 spare PCIe slots so adding a good quality sound card should not be a problem at all, but that will cost more than a dac/optical/coax converter with comparable sound quality specs. So in the end, I think your original idea of using a converter is probably the way to go, just try to getting a better one.
Yeah, I will try it both ways and see how it sounds. Might not be much, if any, of a difference. I will also try your other suggestion of using headphone to RCA outs via analog inputs on the SR 20. Just curious how that will sound as well.

Eventually, I plan to buy a SSD and some sort of sound card. Will get a former coworker to install them for me. Just wished he did not work 16-hours a day nearly 7-days a week. Kind of hard to catch him. Feel free to offer me any suggestions as far as sound cards go. Keep in mind that I do prefer dig coax to toslink.


Phil
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Eventually, I plan to buy a SSD and some sort of sound card. Will get a former coworker to install them for me.
Have you ever opened a PC case? :D

It is usually so simple to insert and screw in the SDD and any card (assuming you have the available slot and bought the correct card for that slot). Definitely buy from Amazon Prime just in case you need to return. :D
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Yes the source will be from my computer's HDMI output into my Denon X3300. Using Zone 2 to power my Wharfedale Diamond 220's. Going to try that at first and see how it goes. If I am not too happy with going that route, then I will buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Fanmusic-FM6011-Coaxial-Converter-Digital/dp/B00A2QJK5I

This will turn my computer's USB output into a dig coax output that I will connect to my Cambridge SR 20 stereo receiver and then to my Diamond 220's. In fact, I have already ordered the coaxial converter and it is on its way to me as we speak.

That is, I plan to try both and choose which sounds best to my ears. I kind of like the Cambridge option better b/c I can use the Wolfson DAC as opposed to the X3300 DAC. Not that it is far superior, but b/c I have read a lot of good things about the Wolfson DAC's. :):):)


Phil
So, you don't like toslink, but do like digi coax and USB? :rolleyes:

I tend to prefer toslink (optical), but in practice I have never noticed any performance differences for optical vs. digi coax. I avoid USB any time that it is possible.

But, I think this is all a moot point, I think HDMI is gonna get you exactly what you wanted.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Have you ever opened a PC case? :D

It is usually so simple to insert and screw in the SDD and any card (assuming you have the available slot and bought the correct card for that slot). Definitely buy from Amazon Prime just in case you need to return. :D
I tend to go to NewEgg for my PC needs. I guess it's mostly just out of habit at this point, seems like I was getting stuff from NewEgg back when Amazon was books only.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
I tend to go to NewEgg for my PC needs. I guess it's mostly just out of habit at this point, seems like I was getting stuff from NewEgg back when Amazon was books only.
Amazon Prime returns are 100% easier than Newegg. You don't even have to call anyone with Amazon for returns.

Most of the time, I get my refund from Amazon Prime the SAME DAY that UPS scans the return.

So I buy from Amazon even if it is a few dollars more expensive.
 
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Amazon Prime returns are 100% easier than Newegg. You don't even have to call anyone with Amazon for returns.

Most of the time, I get my refund from Amazon Prime the SAME DAY that UPS scans the return.

So I buy from Amazon even if it is a few dollars more expensive.
Yeah, I buy a LOT of stuff from Amazon too!

Do you have an Amazon Credit Card? If not, get one. They give you 5% back on every Amazon purchase, then some stuff like gas and restaurants is like 2% or 3%, then 1% on everything else.

I have never had to return anything to NewEgg, so I can't comment there. I agree that Amazon returns are generally very easy.

Like I said, I guess I mostly go NewEgg out of habit, but if Amazon is cheaper then it's a no-brainer.
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
So, you don't like toslink, but do like digi coax and USB? :rolleyes:

I tend to prefer toslink (optical), but in practice I have never noticed any performance differences for optical vs. digi coax. I avoid USB any time that it is possible.

But, I think this is all a moot point, I think HDMI is gonna get you exactly what you wanted.
No, I have had better experiences with digital coax as compared to toslink. No way would I ever prefer USB over both. But, I do agree that HDMI will work better for my needs. However, I do plan to try it several ways just for shits and giggles if nothing else to see if there is much, if any, of a difference. Besides, it will give me something to do.....LOL!!!!!:):):)


Phil
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
Have you ever opened a PC case? :D

It is usually so simple to insert and screw in the SDD and any card (assuming you have the available slot and bought the correct card for that slot). Definitely buy from Amazon Prime just in case you need to return. :D
Nope I sure have not. Hey, I burn water when I cook.......no I am not that bad......LOL!!!!! No really I don't mess with things like that too much.................LOL!!!!:cool::p:cool:


Phil
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Yeah, I buy a LOT of stuff from Amazon too!

Do you have an Amazon Credit Card? If not, get one. They give you 5% back on every Amazon purchase, then some stuff like gas and restaurants is like 2% or 3%, then 1% on everything else.

I have never had to return anything to NewEgg, so I can't comment there. I agree that Amazon returns are generally very easy.

Like I said, I guess I mostly go NewEgg out of habit, but if Amazon is cheaper then it's a no-brainer.
Yes, I also have the Amazon Visa, which I use on Amazon.

I use my Sam's Club MC because I get 5% back on gasoline, 3% back on restaurants, hotels, car rentals, airline tickets, and 1% back on everything else.
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Nope I sure have not. Hey, I burn water when I cook.......no I am not that bad......LOL!!!!! No really I don't mess with things like that too much.................LOL!!!!:cool::p:cool:


Phil
Just watch some YouTube videos on installing PC cards and SSD. It is so easy.


 
Johnny2Bad

Johnny2Bad

Audioholic Chief
So, you don't like toslink, but do like digi coax and USB? :rolleyes:

I tend to prefer toslink (optical), but in practice I have never noticed any performance differences for optical vs. digi coax. I avoid USB any time that it is possible.

But, I think this is all a moot point, I think HDMI is gonna get you exactly what you wanted.
Toslink Optical eliminates any possibility of ground loops, as it breaks the electrical connection between components. So in some cases it has a lower noise floor. Having said that, I myself prefer USB, or if I can use it, Firewire (which does not require CPU cycles to manage, as USB does)
 
speakerman39

speakerman39

Audioholic Overlord
Just watch some YouTube videos on installing PC cards and SSD. It is so easy.


Okay I admit this does NOT look too hard.:D:D:D But, how will I know where to connect the SSD and/or sound card? Getting them in does look doable. But I will still need to know where to plug it all in. Any suggestions?


Phil
 
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
Okay I admit this does NOT look too hard.:D:D:D But, how will I know where to connect the SSD and/or sound card? Getting them in does look doable. But I will still need to know where to plug it all in. Any suggestions?


Phil
Just plug the PCIe sound card into one of the spare PCIe slot in you Dell as shown in the video ADTG posted, and there is no other connections necessary. Some motherboard BIOS allows you to disable the internal sound card via the setup screen but you should call Dell about it first. It may also be possible that you have to set a jumper on the board to disable the internal one. I really think you have the best and easiest solution figured out in terms of cost and simplicity so the sound card option seems like a moot point now right?

Your PC also has all sorts of SATA slots for hard drives including SSDs, even a M2.SSD slot, buy one of those and follow instructions. You may also download the service manual from the Dell website. http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/product-support/product/xps-8910-desktop/manuals
 
Last edited:
slipperybidness

slipperybidness

Audioholic Warlord
Toslink Optical eliminates any possibility of ground loops, as it breaks the electrical connection between components. So in some cases it has a lower noise floor. Having said that, I myself prefer USB, or if I can use it, Firewire (which does not require CPU cycles to manage, as USB does)
Toslink also avoids interference problems with the cable picking up EMI. Even though it would have to be severe interference to harm a digi signal. Several reasons, it tends to be my preferred digi connection.

Yes, in my experience, Firewire is good. But, you just don't seem to see Firewire in many places.

I have a disdain for all USB connections, several reasons and past experiences. I use them, good luck avoiding it completely, but if I have another option then I will typically choose the other options. There are only 2 real advantages to USB: 1) It can carry both signal and power 2) They are ubiquitous
 
AcuDefTechGuy

AcuDefTechGuy

Audioholic Jedi
Okay I admit this does NOT look too hard.:D:D:D But, how will I know where to connect the SSD and/or sound card? Getting them in does look doable. But I will still need to know where to plug it all in. Any suggestions?


Phil
I've "built" or more like "put together" 16 computers now.

So inserting a PC card and SDD is a walk in the park to me and some guys here. :D

There is a sense of PRIDE when you can do things yourself. :D

1. INSERT the Sound Card into the PCIe slot by pushing the card down towards the motherboard.
2. Tighten 1 screw into the screw slot of the Card to secure it to the PC case.
3. Update Windows to update the driver and automatically set the Sound Card as the Default Device. Or install the Driver from the supplied CD that came with the Sound Card.

I think the hardest part is making sure your Sound Card is the CORRECT card for your PC. It must fit into that PCIe slot.

The SSD is screwed to the adapter just like the YouTube video. Then the SSD+Adapter SLIDES into the HDD slots and is secured by screws (1-4 screws). Then you connect the cables to the SSD & Motherboard just like the YouTube video.

Extremely simple to me and some guys here.

But, I don't want to PRESSURE you into doing anything you just don't WANT to. :D

It's okay to let your friend do it for you or help you out. :D

I am guilty of buying the wrong parts before and had to return to Amazon (which is easy, but still requires going to the UPS). :D
 

Latest posts

newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top