MR.MAGOO

MR.MAGOO

Audioholic Field Marshall
Some of my components are plugged into a Panamax M5300-PM power manager. This device has a digital voltmeter and ammeter on the front panel.
Equipment plugged into the Panamax: Yamaha RX-A1020 avr; Sony Bravia 50" LCD TV; Niles SI-2100 amplifier (for rear surround speakers); Toshiba VHS/DVD player-recorder; Pro-ject manual turntable; Marantz CD player.

So when everything above is powered off (but in standby mode), the Panamax ammeter reads 0.4 amps.

When I have the AVR, TV, and VCR or whatever else I'm listening, watching, the ammeter can read 0.9 or 1.0 amps.

Is a 1 amp current draw realistic, how much power does a typical system and it's components draw?
 
Speedskater

Speedskater

Audioholic General
If some of those units have a stand-by mode, then yes it's reasonable. However rules now require that new designs draw much less stand-by power.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
Some of my components are plugged into a Panamax M5300-PM power manager. This device has a digital voltmeter and ammeter on the front panel.
Equipment plugged into the Panamax: Yamaha RX-A1020 avr; Sony Bravia 50" LCD TV; Niles SI-2100 amplifier (for rear surround speakers); Toshiba VHS/DVD player-recorder; Pro-ject manual turntable; Marantz CD player.

So when everything above is powered off (but in standby mode), the Panamax ammeter reads 0.4 amps.

When I have the AVR, TV, and VCR or whatever else I'm listening, watching, the ammeter can read 0.9 or 1.0 amps.

Is a 1 amp current draw realistic, how much power does a typical system and it's components draw?
Why not see how much each component on its own draws above that 0.4A?
I would expect the TV to draw little as well as the VCR.
I use an APC and it shows 4A when my system is on, less the projector as it is not plugged into it.
But, I have two power amps and in essence two receivers on with a number of ancillary components: EQ, BD.

So, that 1A sounds about right.
 
Last edited:
P

PENG

Audioholic Slumlord
The 50" LCD TV alone could be drawing 0.5 to 0.8A when power is on. If you have everything on including the AVR and external amplifiers, like watching a 5.1/7.1 movies, 1A seems low. It could still be reasonable because not everyone watch movies with volume at reference level. I typically have my volume set to around -20 so my AVR and amps consume only a few more watts than when they are idling so for me 1A average at 120V would seem reasonable.
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Some of my components are plugged into a Panamax M5300-PM power manager. This device has a digital voltmeter and ammeter on the front panel.
Equipment plugged into the Panamax: Yamaha RX-A1020 avr; Sony Bravia 50" LCD TV; Niles SI-2100 amplifier (for rear surround speakers); Toshiba VHS/DVD player-recorder; Pro-ject manual turntable; Marantz CD player.

So when everything above is powered off (but in standby mode), the Panamax ammeter reads 0.4 amps.

When I have the AVR, TV, and VCR or whatever else I'm listening, watching, the ammeter can read 0.9 or 1.0 amps.

Is a 1 amp current draw realistic, how much power does a typical system and it's components draw?
If you want to find the device that uses the most energy when it's "off", you can do two things- place your hand on the top of each piece and feel for the one(s) that are warm. The other way is to unplug everything and look at the meter while inserting the power cord plugs. It will change every time you insert the plug for anything that uses energy.

.4A works out to roughly 48Watts. Energy Star devices are supposed to use about 1 Watt in standby, IIRC.
 
mtrycrafts

mtrycrafts

Seriously, I have no life.
If you want to find the device that uses the most energy when it's "off", you can do two things- place your hand on the top of each piece and feel for the one(s) that are warm. The other way is to unplug everything and look at the meter while inserting the power cord plugs. It will change every time you insert the plug for anything that uses energy.

.4A works out to roughly 48Watts. Energy Star devices are supposed to use about 1 Watt in standby, IIRC.
One needs to know if that ammeter also includes what his Panamax is using when it is on.
Most likely that is the case, total current draw.
 
MR.MAGOO

MR.MAGOO

Audioholic Field Marshall
Looks like the main drawback for me at least, to the Kill-a-watt is convenience, the wall plug must be unobstructed and you'd have to crawl on hands and knees to read the display. It does offer more data; watts, amps, volts, hertz than my Belkin Conserve Insight, which as far as current goes only shows watts. The Kill-a-watt looks like a good choice for the kitchen appliances.

IMG_0810.JPG
 
highfigh

highfigh

Seriously, I have no life.
Looks like the main drawback for me at least, to the Kill-a-watt is convenience, the wall plug must be unobstructed and you'd have to crawl on hands and knees to read the display. It does offer more data; watts, amps, volts, hertz than my Belkin Conserve Insight, which as far as current goes only shows watts. The Kill-a-watt looks like a good choice for the kitchen appliances.

View attachment 19336
P=IE. Convert the reading to Amps.
 
newsletter

  • RBHsound.com
  • BlueJeansCable.com
  • SVS Sound Subwoofers
  • Experience the Martin Logan Montis
Top