Identifying Legitimately High Fidelity Loudspeakers: Myths & Facts about Cabinets

[admin]

The cabinet is a big expense in the total budget of a loudspeaker system. Cost cutting is an easy area for some manufacturers to rationalize by using pseudo science and also knowing most consumers won't take a peek inside the box to see what's going on. This article explores some of the common myths we've uncovered and discusses how poorly executed decisions can ultimately compromise the quality of the product. The sum of the parts really does matter in loudspeakers, as does the engineering behind making all of the parts work together as one unit. Take the time to research the mechanics of the enclosure if the manufacturer is willing to espouse the information, and pay close attention to our reviews where we often dissect the speakers to give an inside look and analysis. If you are seeking out truly high quality loudspeakers, don't settle for mediocre or even average build quality, especially if the price tag doesn't justify it.


Discuss "Identifying Legitimately High Fidelity Loudspeakers: Myths & Facts about Cabinets" here. Read the article.

[Paul_Apollonio]

Thanks.

[GranteedEV]

there was no mention about the value and benefits of constrained layer (viscoelastic) damping...

[SnowmaNick]

Paul et al,

Thanks for an informative, easily understood article. If you have a moment, I have a question in regards to the bottom line of myth #4 regarding fiberglass and poly fill inside an enclosure.

Bottom Line: Some poly fill / dacron can be a compromise and better insulation (ie. fiberglass or high density poly fill) will improve the sound quality of your speakers. If the manufacturer is willing to spend the time and money to do it right, that is a bonus. If not you as the end user should be willing to replace the stuffing of your speakers. It is neither difficult nor expensive, and can result in an audible and measurable improvement in your sound.

Does this recommendation change for various types of ported/vented enclosures? In particular, enclosures that use passive radiators? Since the passive radiator relies on the pressure from the cabinet, does adding (any/some/more) insulation to such a design affect the tuning or performance in a negative way?

Thanks in advance.

[shadyJ]

An excellent article! I'm looking forward to more articles in this series, it has been highly informative so far. Thanks!!

[ratso]

BTW i went to RMAF last year and for the most part was mostly disappointed by most speakers i heard. but those bambergs sounded pretty damn nice IMO.

[Paul_Apollonio]

Paul et al,

Thanks for an informative, easily understood article. If you have a moment, I have a question in regards to the bottom line of myth #4 regarding fiberglass and poly fill inside an enclosure.

Bottom Line: Some poly fill / dacron can be a compromise and better insulation (ie. fiberglass or high density poly fill) will improve the sound quality of your speakers. If the manufacturer is willing to spend the time and money to do it right, that is a bonus. If not you as the end user should be willing to replace the stuffing of your speakers. It is neither difficult nor expensive, and can result in an audible and measurable improvement in your sound.

Does this recommendation change for various types of ported/vented enclosures? In particular, enclosures that use passive radiators? Since the passive radiator relies on the pressure from the cabinet, does adding (any/some/more) insulation to such a design affect the tuning or performance in a negative way?

Thanks in advance.

Absolutely. The amount of stuffing in a vented enclosure must be chosen judiciously so as to not interfere with the passage of air through the port. Usually, they are less filled than a similar sealed box. (At least when I was younger, today anything goes). For a PR box, the issue really goes away since it is pressure only moving the PR. You need not worry about the filling jamming the port. It will affect the effective volume of the box, and therefore it should change both the tuning and the Q. This may be a small difference relative to the improvement you get in the midrange with a full range driver where the rear wave hits the rear panel, reflects, then tries (successfully) to exit through the cone again, out of phase with the initial wave. As for pollyfill, it is not all created equal. Hollofill does the best job of creating a viscous drag on the air. It is almost NEVER used, since it was more expensive than the junk most manufacturers install. Fiberglass should FILL the air, more than simply displace it. WHERE in the box the filing is stuffed also effects things. Behind the driver directly is going to decrease the Qms the most. I would say play with the thing and remember ALL OF THIS IS SMALL RELATIVE TO THE IMPORTANCE OF SPEAKER POSITIONING on your bass. Have a nice day.

[Paul_Apollonio]

there was no mention about the value and benefits of constrained layer (viscoelastic) damping...

I think you should ask the website for your money back then.

[lsiberian]

I would like to point out for the home builder or modder that 4" 6 to 8lb density rockwool is the most effective product I've used to absorb the internal energy of a speaker or sub. It's much easier on the skin that fiber and cheaper than high density fiber.

[lsiberian]

there was no mention about the value and benefits of constrained layer (viscoelastic) damping...

It's completely unpractical in a commercial setting. The labor required is insanely high. I'd not ever put one in a speaker I wanted to sell. Unless the customer was willing to wait a lot longer and pay a lot more.