Sealed 18" Dayton RSS460HO-4 in 4 cu ft "Kit" - Best thing since sliced bread?

BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
Data-Bass
Dayton Audio 18" Reference Series HO Subwoofer and Cabinet P 300-7094

The measurements look to my ([strike]amateur[/strike] noobish) eye extremely impressing, especially in comparison to much more expensive subs
What's the catch? In which areas commercials designs like Funk 18.0 and 18.0C are/would be better

I mean this kit shipped is well under $400. Add pro-amp for another 300-400 and I see $700 sub which easily competes with best (or so it seems from measurements)
 
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jp_over

jp_over

Full Audioholic
Wow - this looks interesting. Since I've got a couple of Yamaha P2500S amps "just sitting around" - I might have to try a new sub project!
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
Data-Bass
Dayton Audio 18" Reference Series HO Subwoofer and Cabinet P 300-7094

The measurements look to my ([strike]amateur[/strike] noobish) eye extremely impressing, especially in comparison to much more expensive subs
What's the catch? In which areas commercials designs like Funk 18.0 and 18.0C are/would be better

I mean this kit shipped is well under $400. Add pro-amp for another 300-400 and I see $700 sub which easily competes with best (or so it seems from measurements)
Depends. The 18.0C is pretty comparable, with the edge going to the Dayton kit, but the 18.0 has much less thermal compression and distortion. It can play louder longer and lower than the Dayton even though the Dayton might have it beat for a quick peak. The biggest difference for me is distortion below 30hz. The Funk easily played the 120db sweep with low distortion whereas the Dayton struggled with the 115db sweep.
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
TYVM Fuzz . I think I understand it a bit better now.

Q: Dayton is doing OK with 110db sweep and really well with 105db. Now 105db at 15hz with under 10% thd is not exactly terrible.
The box and sub are so cheap one could build a pair of them. place on top of each other and get +6 db :) Just not sure how would significant other take it :)
And CEA2010 results do appear very comparable




 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
I find it odd how the THD graphs differ so much from the CEA data.
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
So, If I read this right, it's a monster at extremely high levels above 40hz (granted efficiency is low) but has some thd/heat compression issues below 30hz at a very high levels (above 110db)
So for any sane (and yet deaf) person running it up-to 90-100db Max it shouldn't really be a problem, right?
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
I would say that once level matched and EQ'ed into a persons system it should be an absolute beast at any frequency from 20-100hz all the way up to reference levels. One thing, I modeled it in the 4cuft. box in bassbox pro and if you were to EQ it with a little boost to counter-act the natural 12db/oct roll off of a sealed cabinet, it would need a high pass filter at around 20hz because it would run out of excursion.

So, If I read this right, it's a monster at extremely high levels above 40hz (granted efficiency is low) but has some thd/heat compression issues below 30hz at a very high levels (above 110db)
So for any sane (and yet deaf) person running it up-to 90-100db Max it shouldn't really be a problem, right?
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
I would say that once level matched and EQ'ed into a persons system it should be an absolute beast at any frequency from 20-100hz all the way up to reference levels. One thing, I modeled it in the 4cuft. box in bassbox pro and if you were to EQ it with a little boost to counter-act the natural 12db/oct roll off of a sealed cabinet, it would need a high pass filter at around 20hz because it would run out of excursion.
Great thanks, how much fill you think it would need - I think PE's recommended 5 lbs is a bit too much?
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
That sounded a little high so I remodeled it with a typical level of fill instead of heavy. The difference is really negligible. Lightening up on the fill brings Q up slightly and lowers F3 3hz to ~40hz, but everything stays pretty much the same. It doesn't seem to really matter and you could definitely get away with less fill and be fine.

Great thanks, how much fill you think it would need - I think PE's recommended 5 lbs is a bit too much?
 
GranteedEV

GranteedEV

Audioholic Ninja
So, If I read this right, it's a monster at extremely high levels above 40hz (granted efficiency is low) but has some thd/heat compression issues below 30hz at a very high levels (above 110db)
Not thermal compression, but rather due to its linear excursion limits. The motor loses control over the cone at such long throws due to a variety of factors - BL, Le, and suspension.

So for any sane (and yet deaf) person running it up-to 90-100db Max it shouldn't really be a problem, right?
For music no, but for movies, the potential is genuinly there of overdriving it.

Of course, four of these things and you'll be in bliss.
 
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afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
This guy fade to black did a great job:

This guy Shackster A little too big, but nice:

Wish I had all those tools...BSA are you gonna buy the box and install it???
 
panteragstk

panteragstk

Audioholic Warlord
These look interesting. Shockingly cheap for the performance. I may have to build one for my living room setup when the time comes. Nice find.
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
For music no, but for movies, the potential is genuinly there of overdriving it.
Lets say, If I had DSP before it, like in iNUKE dsp amps, how would I limit it from over-driving?
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
Lets say, If I had DSP before it, like in iNUKE dsp amps, how would I limit it from over-driving?
You would need to use a high pass filter at like 20hz or maybe even a little higher to roll off the lower frequencies to keep yourself from exceeding excursion limits.
 
BoredSysAdmin

BoredSysAdmin

Audioholic Slumlord
This guy fade to black did a great job:

Wish I had all those tools...BSA are you gonna buy the box and install it???
Same here, I wish I had the tools too and for now I live in apt just like you are, in fact we practically neighbors...
Something tells me even if I get the tools, wife would appreciate the build taking most of the space in the living room, not to mention wood clue vapors for several weeks :)

What we need to find is a local wood shop, where for small membership we could use the space, the tools and hopefully someone's advice :)


btw: I did locate Fade to black build threads, with knock-down PE box it should be much simpler process
Dayton RSS460HO Reference 18" subwoofer sealed BUILD THREAD - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
Dayton RSS460HO Reference 18" subwoofer sealed BUILD THREAD
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
The knock down cabinets were designed so that theoretically you could put them together with wood glue and tape. IME the wood glue doesn't smell much or at all. Then again it could be because I'm comparing glue smell to polyurethane fumes :D

Same here, I wish I had the tools too and for now I live in apt just like you are, in fact we practically neighbors...
Something tells me even if I get the tools, wife would appreciate the build taking most of the space in the living room, not to mention wood clue vapors for several weeks :)

What we need to find is a local wood shop, where for small membership we could use the space, the tools and hopefully someone's advice :)


btw: I did locate Fade to black build threads, with knock-down PE box it should be much simpler process
Dayton RSS460HO Reference 18" subwoofer sealed BUILD THREAD - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com
Dayton RSS460HO Reference 18" subwoofer sealed BUILD THREAD
 
afterlife2

afterlife2

Audioholic Warlord
I was thinking where the heck would I put that monster? That thing will be huge for my tiny studio.:) 15" might be better. Maybe the PB1000 would suit me better, hmmmm...
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
I was thinking where the heck would I put that monster? That thing will be huge for my tiny studio.:) 15" might be better. Maybe the PB1000 would suit me better, hmmmm...
I see a subwoofer project coming up. Better fire up bassbox pro :p
 
fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
Another option is the Obsidian 15" driver in a 3cuft box. Saves you a little more space, doesn't start to run out of xmax until about 2500 watts, at which point it should be up around 120db at 80ish hz. The downside is that there are no distortion measurements on it.

$160 plus shipping.

$90 for the flat pack.

$100 in binding posts, wire, and pillows

$30 in duratex

~$380

EDIT, I lied. Josh has tested the 18" version of the obsidian and the distortion plots look pretty good compared to the Dayton. In fact the Obsidian does a touch better in some areas, since the thd component measurements were done at 120db and the dayton was done at 115db and they look pretty similar. Then the thd sweeps the obsidian looks like it wins out in the 120 and 115 sweeps while the dayton does better at the 110db sweep.

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=93&mset=100

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=89&mset=96
 
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fuzz092888

fuzz092888

Audioholic Warlord
I never should have come to this thread. Now I want to build a subwoofer. :eek:
 

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